This trip was from 15 August to 4 September 1999, organised by Kumuka Expeditions as their (Northbound) "Inca Heights" Trip

We flew out with American Airlines (which while competitive in price seem to offer the least for it - only Varig, the Brazilian national airline seemed to have been worse), to arrive with a day and a half in La Paz before the tour started.

Friday 13 August 1999

View of La Paz from our hotel window:

It was very cold when we got out of the airport at about 5:30am, our taxi driver claimed it was -2 Celsius. We checked into our hotel which we had booked from England and had a nap before doing a short walk round La Paz. The affect of the altitude was noticeable, in the shortness of breath, and in my case occasional strange tingles in my lower back and legs. We looked at the Iglesia de San Fransisco, the outside of which is lovely carved stonework. The inside of the church was very gaudy, with carved wood gold plated - a bit over the top for my taste. Indian weddings are traditionally held here on Saturday mornings, and we did see one family all dressed up on their way to the church the next day.

The outside of the Museo Nacional del Art:

The Museo Nacional del Art (National Museum of Art) was housed in a lovely three story colonial building. In the center of this was a cool courtyard with a marble fountain. The exhibits were mostly modern art, caricatures - and all the descriptions where in Spanish only. We then walked to the Cathedral. This is quite a recent building dating from 1835, and its built on the side of a steep hill. If you walk round it you find that the bottom of the hill has been raised up by about three floors worth - and there are shops underneath it. The Cathedral is a very grand building, and inside the decoration is minimal, just great high stone ceilings.

Saturday 14 August 1999

We walked through La Paz to the Residencial Rosario, the hotel where the Kumuka trek was departing from, to check when we should be meeting up. We went for lunch in El Lomo a nearby restaurant recommended in our guide books. We then went off to take photos in La Paz, and find an internet cafe to email home.

The Iglesia de San Fransisco:

The Kumuka pre-departure meeting was that evening, where we met our tour leader, Claudia (from Holland), and our driver, Cliff (from South Africa), and most of the tour group. After the meeting we had dinner in the hotel - it was very good but very slow.

Sunday 15 August 1999 - Free day in La Paz

The first day of the Kumuka tour was designated a free day in La Paz. We brought our baggage over to the Residencial Rosario and where told to check into the Hotel Estrella next door.

We met up with two more of the group, Andy and Gareth, to go and have a look at the museums in town. We tried to visit the "four in one" museums, but ran out of time and just managed a quick look at the Museo Costumbrista Juan de Vargas, Museo del Literol, or Museo de la Guerra del Pacifico (which documents the pacific war in which Bolivia lost its sea access - lots of interesting old maps of South America), and the Museo de Metales Preciosos Pre-Columbinos (includes rooms of gold, silver, copper and ceramics). We also looked at the Museo de Etnografia y Folklore which had some brilliant models of village scenes and tombs.

In the street outside the Museo de Metales Preciosos Pre-Columbinos:

The courtyard in the Museo de Etnografia y Folklore:

Karen, Gareth, John and Andy in front of the Presidential Palace:

The Cathedral and the Museo Nacional del Art:

The street running down the side of the cathedral, note how steep the hill is!

We walked past the Cathedral again, stopped in El Lomo for lunch and then wandered round the little stalls in the nearby streets for hats, gloves and souvenirs. La Paz is cheaper and seems to have more to offer here than Lima.

Monday 16 August 1999 - Drive from La Paz to Puno

We had our first day on the road in the blue Kumuka truck, currently christened "Nelly" but Cliff and Claudia where keen for suggestions. We didn't have enough time to see the pre-Inca ruins of Tiahuanaco. The border crossing took a while but went smoothly. We arrived in Puno that evening, and were not very impressed. The hotel didn't seem to be finished (the top floor looked like a building site, and in the courtyard they were demolishing a shower block). We had a group dinner in "the best restaurant in Puno", the service was very slow and they didn't even serve cuy (guinea pig). We found a better restaurant the next night in Puno.

Tuesday 17 August 1999 - Boat trip to Amantani Island

We had an early start for our two day boat trip on Lake Titicaca. Leaving from Puno harbour, our first stop was on of the los Uros floating reed islands. Here we had the chance to buy more knick knacks, and take a reed boat for the twenty metres to the neighbouring island. This was a natural island, formed when the lake water level rose, tearing the living mat of reeds off the bottom of the lake.

On the way to Amantani Island, Jenny, Adel and Andy:

We then had three hours on the boat to Amantani Island where we sent the night, groups of two or three tourists each staying with a local family. We played flying kites with their children. In the evening we all walked up to the top of the hill where we had a look at some more ruins, and watched the sunset. It was too cloudy to be very spectacular.

Andy, Ally and Karen on Amantani Island:

After a dinner of fried fish, chips and rice we where all taken to a local bar to have some drinks and dance.

Wednesday 18 August 1999 - Boat back to Puno

Our first stop was Taquile Island. We walked up to the main village where we played football in the square. Some local school children where supposed to be playing us but this fell through. We had a passable lunch and then walked down to the harbour. We then had another three hours on the boat to reach Puno.

We had dinner in La Casona which was much better. Gareth and Patrick had battered cuy, which they said tasted a bit like chicken but there wasn't really enough meat on it to tell. There was also a pretty good live performance by a pan-pipe group playing while we ate. They seem to go round all he restaurants each evening, collecting money and selling tapes and CDs - some of the group did buy some.

Thursday 19 August 1999 - Drive from Puno to Cusco

We had drinks in Paddy Flaherty's Irish Pub, where I got to try the national cocktail, Pisco Sour.

Friday 20 August 1999 - Free day in Cusco

The main plaza in Cusco:

In the morning we had a briefing for the Inca Trail. John and I had the doctor round about our diarrhoea which had started about Monday, and spent the afternoon looking for an open pharmacy. Most people went to look at the Inca ruins of Saqsaywamen which was an important temple. There are some fine examples of Inca stone work without cement - this type of work was reserved for important temples only.

Two watercolours of Cusco which I bought later in Arequipa:

Saturday 21 August 1999 - Inca Trail Day One

Kumuka had subcontracted the Inca Trail to the local company, United Mice Tours. In the morning we left at six for a long drive to the start of the trail at the railway station Km 82. We stopped for breakfast at a restaurant in the town of Ollantaytambo. According to the guide books this was built on top of an Inca town, and still has the Inca stonework as foundations, at the foot of some spectacular Inca ruins and terraces. We didn't get to see these.

On getting out of the bus at the train station (Km 82) we were immediately mobbed by women trying to sell us hats, water, and water bottle carriers. We crossed the river by suspension bridge and started walking. The first ruins where Llaqtapata (2282m), a large village with farming terraces, believed to supply other sites with food. We had lunch overlooking the site, and then headed south to camp near the village of Huayllabamba (2950m). The porters had, of course, made better time than us and the tents where all set up waiting for us.

Sunday 22 August 1999 - Inca Trail Day Two

This was probably the hardest day's walking, a long climb us to Warmiwanusqa Pass (4200m), or Dead Woman's Pass. The last stretch was particularly tiring - almost a case of taking a few steps and then stopping to get one's breath back. We had a good rest here while the rest of our group made it to the top. The pass seemed quite clean, but exploring up on the north side reveals two massive pile of litter, some of collected in black bin bags.

Waiting at Warmiwanusqa Pass:

After a ascent of 1200m, we had a 600m descent down the Inca paved path - stone steps almost all the way. Jenny slipped, grazing her knee and twisting her ankle on the way down. We had hot pasta for lunch in the Pacamaya Valley. Gareth and Peter went off to look at hummingbirds, orchids and other little flowers.

We then made our way up to the circular ruins of Runkuracay, which was probably a food store or post house, which we camped by (although my guide books says it is no longer permitted to camp here, it was a very nice location). For dinner the cook excelled himself - pop corn for starters, and a rum and cinnamon tea after dinner.

The view from the campsite:

Monday 23 August 1999 - Inca Trail Day Three

After a filling breakfast of pancakes and porridge we made our way up to the next pass (3850m) and into the cloud forest. We should have got spectacular views of Pumasillo (6246m) and the Vilcabamba range but it was very cloudy.

Our first ruin for the day was Sayacmarca (3600m) (Inaccessible town), perched on the side of the ridge overlooking the (cloud filled) Aobamba valley.

Peter and Andy in Sayacmarca:

Just below Sayacmarca lies the small site of Conchamarca (Shell Town) which has had its thatch roof work restored.

We then had a pleasant gentle ascent up the side of the valley admiring the mossy trees and flowers of the cloud forest. We had lunch above the ruins of Phuyupatamarca (3650m) (Cloud level town).

Russel at one of the short tunnel sections:

A view on the way down:

It was then another long descent of 900m to the campsite by the bar and restaurant near the ruins of Winay Wayna. This was also a chance for a hot shower and cold beers.

Tuesday 24 August 1999 - Inca Trail Day Four

We got up before dawn, were treated to pancakes for breakfast again, and set off for Intipunku, the Sun Gate, to watch sunrise on Machu Picchu. We got there in good time, and waited as the cloud cleared to reveal our destination (and the neighbouring hotel). From here it is a gentle path down to the lost city.

Machu Picchu with the group in the foreground, Gareth as usual is taking a photo:
The traditional postcard shot of Machu Picchu:

We had a guided tour and then a hour to explore on our own.

After the tour Andy, Ally, Peter and Gareth spent their hour climbing the overlooking hill Huayna Picchu to get photos of the complex.

We had to get on one of the buses down from the hotel to the railway station at Aguas Calientes, where we found that following the privatisation of the train service, and plans to build a cable car in competition with the privately owned bus service, the train drivers were on strike (at least that's the only explanation I heard). The only access to Cusco from Aquas Calientes is by rail or by helicopter at 85 US$. Investigations revealed that the helicopters where fully booked for the next few days and that we would have to walk back down the railway track, a distance of 30km. We decided to stay the night and leave early the next morning. Most people declined to sleep on the restaurant floor and booked into the hostel across the street. A few people went clubbing for most of the night, and Laura and Ally stayed up all night (which they regretted on the walk home when they started seeing things).

Wednesday 25 August 1999 - Inca Trail Day Five

The 30km walk down the railway line was not very fun, for some of the walk there were paths beside the track, but for much of it we had to step from sleeper to sleeper - and they where not placed regularly or at a stride's length. Jenny's ankle had swollen up after twisting it and she was on painkillers for the day, for the last four kilometres she rode a donkey back. This delay put our itinerary back by a day, losing the free day in Lima at the end of the trek.

Thursday 26 August 1999 - Free day in Cusco

Peter, John & Kapil (having recovered from upset stomachs and altitude sickness) took a taxi to look at the four main sites above Cusco. Tambo Machay seems to have been a water cult, some big walks and spring running through a hidden channel in the wall into a little rock pool known at the Inca's bath.

Inca stonework at Tambo Machay:

John in one of the alcoves:

Tambo Machay:

Tambo Machay:

John and Kapil by the stone sink, the "Inca's Bath":

Peter and Kapil by the "Inca's Bath":

The second site was Puka Pukara, known as the Red Fort, but believed to have been a tambo or post house.

Puka Pukara:

Next we visited the temple and amphitheatre of Q'enqo, it is carved out of a lava flow, there is an altar in an artificial cave underneath the site, all carved in situ from the rock.

One entrance to the carved out cave under the site (with John's head sticking out):	The top of Q'enqo:
The carved stone altar in the cave:

Finally we had a look at Saqsaywaman, a major temple to the sun. It was largely destroyed by the Spanish following the rebellion of Manco Inca in 1536, and subsequently by use as a quarry for Cusco.

Stone walls at Saqsaywaman:

Foundations of one of three towers originally at the top of the site. This one has lots of water channels carved into it:

Looking down on Cusco from Saqsaywaman:

The walls of Saqsaywaman and the white Jesus statue:

Looking down at Saqsaywaman from the road back to Cusco:

In the evening we went to Rosey O'Grady's, another Irish themed bar, where we met our guides from the Inca Trail, Carlos and Eric. They took us to a night club which seemed to play bad western music mixed with salsa. Kapil and Hetal got particularly drunk.

Hetal, Andy and Kapil in the club in Cusco:

Friday 27 August 1999 - Drive to a free camp

A long day's drive with nothing special to see, our first nights camping was by a river in the middle of nowhere. We arrived at dusk and had to put the tents up in the dark by torch light on what seemed like a pebble beach. It was either too sandy to hold a peg, or nearly impossible to get the pegs in. Some people resorted to holding the tents down with rocks. That day's cook team had the pleasure of pealing about fifty potatoes to mash to go with the steak. I was most impressed with dinner, and ate four steaks - the loss of appetite due to the altitude seemed to be leaving me.

The truck and lots of our group out looking at llamas:

Some quite impressive rock formations, almost looks man made...

This is a llama pen, a larger version of a sheep pen:

Zooming in on the last photo:

Saturday 28 August 1999 - Drive to Colca Canyon

We got to the hot springs near Chivay at lunch time. We where then put on a hired local bus to take us to see Colca Canyon, and back again. This was an interesting drive - due to a dodgy connection the driver had his little daughter standing on the battery terminals when starting the bus or using the headlights (which we needed for a long tunnel and the drive back). We got out at the view point and looked at the canyon. Its about twice as deep as the Grand Canyon (it was thought to be the deepest in the world until the nearby Cotahuasi Canyon was found to be 163m deeper), but shaped like a steep valley. The view of the canyon was a bit disappointing, you can spend days trekking there, but the condors flying overhead where quite good.

The group at the view point:

After dinner about half the group went down to the hot springs - basically a swimming pool fed by hot sulphury water from the springs. We spent the evening loafing, drinking cold beer and playing water polo.

Sunday 29 August 1999 - Drive to Arequipa

Our drive took use through a national park where we saw some Vicuna, wild relatives of the llama. They where however to far away for most people's cameras.

Some strange cairns at a high pass:

A herd of Alpacas (like Llamas but bred for wool):

In Arequipa we stayed in the Hostal Las Mercedes, in a rougher part of town but with big walls and gates round it. We went into town and had tea and cakes in a cafe off the Plaza de Armas.

Monday 30 August 1999 - Free Day in Arequipa

The Plaza de Armas in central Arequipa:

Having tea overlooking the Plaza:

We visited the Convent de Santa Catalina (which also appears to be known as the Monasterio de Santa Catalina, which is strange as that would mean monks), a large block of the city which used to be run by some very wealthy nuns, until the church cracked down on them. There where lots of pretty street and squares with flowers and many paintings.

In the afternoon we went shopping in the market by the Plaza de San Franciso. We had a group dinner at an Argentinean restaurant:

Tuesday 31 August 1999 - Extra Day In Arequipa

We were going to leave at 7:00am, but in the early hours of morning the truck was broken into and the tents, sleeping bags and roll mats stolen. We spent the morning waiting for the police to do their report and wandered about the town for the afternoon. This did have the bright side that for the rest of the trek we would be staying in hotels.

Wednesday 1 September 1999 - Drive to Puerto Inca

Another early start, but at midday we reached a roadblock. There had been a land slide on the only road, which snaked its way up and down cliffs, and the road was closed for four hours. We backtracked a little way to find somewhere for lunch. We pulled off onto a dirt track and headed for the sea. On the way we spotted a pile of human bones, probably from a robbed grave.

We had a cooked lunch to kill time - a very tasty chicken curry. While this was cooking we wandered down to the sea, and found a graveyard on the beach. We think this was from shipwrecks off the coast. We also saw lots of condors, especially on the rubbish heaps.

Puerto Inca was the main port for Cusco, and the only civilisation there was a hotel where we stayed. We would have been camping by the beach near the hotel.

Thursday 2 September 1999 - Jetskiing And Drive to Nasca

In the morning we locked at the ruins of the drying and store houses for the port. Conner, Paddy, Emma, Peter, John and Gareth went jetskiing, which ran a little late.

On the way to Nasca we stopped at the Cemetery of Chautill. Until a few years ago, all the mummies and bones where scatted around lying on the surface (which is how you see them in the guide books), but recently the local authorities decided to put them back in the graves.

Peter and Andy playing frisbie while lunch was prepared:

In Nasca we all had a group dinner in a restaurant recommend by our hotel, we had the pleasure of yet another pan-pipe group playing while we ate - some of the group did buy some of their CDs.

Friday 3 September 1999 - Nasca Lines

In the morning we went up to see the Nasca lines (or Nazca Lines) in four seater airplanes. Very impressive, but they seemed smaller than I had expected as we were quite high up.

The Whale:

The "Astronaut", not quite sure what it was meant to be: Work with us