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Roundtable History & Design

Kosode & Banyans: Contested World Views in an Attire c1580-1910

Date: 12th September 2018, 10:00-16:00
Venue: H3.03, Humanities Building,
University of Warwick, Global History and Culture Centre

Organized by Miki Sugiura and LCCG (Linking Cloth-Clothing Globally) Supported by JSPS Fund, Warwick GHCC, Leverhulme Trust (Visiting Professorship 2018-2019)

Participants:Junko Aono, Sarah Cheang, Ariane Fennetaux, Anne Gerritsen, Anna Jackson (V&A), Susan North (V&A), Josephine Rout (V&A), Miki Sugiura, Keiko Suzuki

The conference explores the global interconnections and socio-cultural meanings of East Asian style over-gowns. Since the late 16th century, Japanese style gowns of Dofuku and Kosode were transformed and circulated as banyan or Japonse Rok in Portuguese, English, French and Dutch and trajectories. It could be positioned as one of the global costume, an attire people wore to express their attitude towards interconnected world.
As methodology, we adopt micro-scope approach: We aim to focus on an attire, actually worn or visually depicted as worn by an individual or limited number of people in specific location, and draw out global connections at multiple levels.
It is a follow-up of the conference held in University of Kyushu in Fukuoka, Japan, in July 2017.(see Miki Sugiura, Junko Aono, Ariane Fenneataux and Keiko Suzuki will present updated papers from the conference. Anne Gerritsen, Susan North and Sarah Chaeng will broaden the view by presenting their insights onown connections in the Netherlands, England, Japan and China.
The aim of the meeting is to have a roundtable for exchange among scholars interested in the field. For details, please contact (or


9:45 Tea and Coffee
10:00 Welcome by Miki Sugiura
10:10-10:40 Miki Sugiura
Tensho Boys' Missionaries' Costume invention in 1580s
10:40- 11:10 Junko Aono
The Japonse Rok in Seventeenth-Century Dutch Portraiture
11:10-11:50 Anne Gerritsen
Touching the global: The gown of Thomas Hees and representations of bodily contact
11:50 -12:20 Keiko Suzuki
Design Dialogues. Questions on Kosode and Japonse Rok ‘s commonalities

>12:20-13:00 Lunch Break<

13:00- 13:40 Ariane Fennetaux
Behind the Seams: material close reading of some early eighteenth-century banyan connections
13:40- 14:20 Susan North
Familiarly exotic – nightgowns, kimono and banyans in England

>14:20-14:35 Coffee Break<

14:35-15:15 Sarah Cheang
Chinese robes and material interactions between China, Japan and Britain: Collections and

15:15-16:00 General Discussion