View Textile

{"lastUpdated":1419243395666,"description":"List of entries","links":[{"rel":"alternate","length":0,"href":"https://warwick.ac.uk/fac/arts/history/ghcc/eac/databases/textiles/catalogue/store/"},{"rel":"self","length":0,"href":"https://sitebuilder.warwick.ac.uk/sitebuilder2/api/dataentry/entries.json?page=/fac/arts/history/ghcc/eac/databases/textiles/catalogue/store"}],"id":"https://warwick.ac.uk/fac/arts/history/ghcc/eac/databases/textiles/catalogue/store/","categories":[],"title":"Data Store","publicationDate":1759269246083,"items":[{"metadata":"{\"published\":true,\"details\":{\"EICname\":\"Paunch\",\"place\":[\"China\"],\"finish\":[\"painted\"],\"material\":[\"Silk\"],\"dimensions\":\"9 1/2 yd x 1/2 yd, 10 yd x ?, 10 1/2 yd x 1/2 yd, 11 yd x 1/2 ell, 12 yd x 1/2 ell, 22 yd x 1/2 ell,\",\"market\":\"English\",\"colours\":[\"white\"],\"pattern\":[\"plain\",\"flowered\"]},\"notes\":{\"notes\":\"See below\",\"contemporary\":\"'The York Herald', 6 June 1807: Full dress was comlemented by a Square Shawl of Chinese Silk, with a rich painted border, finished at each point with corresponding tassels. Accessorized with a Chinese fan of frosted crape with ivory sticks, carved \\r\\nin Egyptian characters.\"}}","title":"1","enclosures":[],"url":{"rel":"self","length":0,"href":"https://warwick.ac.uk/fac/arts/history/ghcc/eac/databases/textiles/catalogue/store/?selectedLetter=num#def-1"},"content":"","script":"","entryId":"094d43a24073538f014077d987ef3bf2","lastUpdated":1416822153653,"anchor":"def-1","parsedContentBody":"","id":"094d43a24073538f014077d987ef3bf2","categories":[],"publicationDate":1416822153653,"authors":[{"name":"David Beck"}]},{"metadata":"{\"published\":true,\"details\":{\"EICname\":\"Hanno\",\"place\":[\"China\"],\"finish\":[\"plain\"],\"material\":[\"Silk\"],\"market\":\"English\",\"colours\":[\"unspecified,loan\"],\"pattern\":[\"plain\"]}}","title":"10","enclosures":[],"url":{"rel":"self","length":0,"href":"https://warwick.ac.uk/fac/arts/history/ghcc/eac/databases/textiles/catalogue/store/?selectedLetter=num#def-10"},"content":"","script":"","entryId":"094d43a24073561e014078765c634a8b","lastUpdated":1376580681000,"anchor":"def-10","parsedContentBody":"","id":"094d43a24073561e014078765c634a8b","categories":[],"publicationDate":1376580681000,"authors":[{"name":"David Beck"}]},{"metadata":"{\"published\":true,\"image\":[{\"url\":\"ELATCHnegotiationprotokoll_1116_063.JPG\",\"imgnotes\":\"Swedish East India Company Sales Catalogue (1735), containing goods brought home by the ship Ulrica Elenora. Images from copy with textile samples, held in archive of the Danish West Indian Company (Vestindisk-Guineisk Kompagni), in the series: Charles Barringtons med Grevinden af Laurwigen hjemførte arkiv, 1725-1738, Volume 219, Danish National Archive (Rigsarkivet), Copenhagen. \"}],\"details\":{\"EICname\":\"Elatch\",\"names\":\"pl. Elatches\",\"place\":[\"India - Bengal\"],\"placeprod\":\"Maulda, Malcapore,\",\"material\":[\"Cotton\"],\"dimensions\":\"6 1/4 yd x 1 yd, 7 yd x ?, 10 yd x ?, 12 1/2 yd x 1 yd, 18 cov x 1 1/2 cov, 30 cov x 1 1/2 cov, 36 cov x 1 1/2 cov, \",\"market\":\"English\",\"colours\":[\"blue\",\"lively\",\"red\"],\"pattern\":[\"striped\"]},\"notes\":{\"notes\":\"Wellington: Elatches: 1) Fabric from India, silk and cotton. Kind of chuquelas and alleges, (Savary, 1,1799). 2) Mixed cotton and silk fabric striped fine quality fashion wear and re-export trade Bengal 18th c. (Chaudhuri, 504). 3) Handmade checked Indian dress fabric made of cotton and coloured silk yarn (Wingate, 214).\",\"contemporary\":\"A sample of an elatch can be seen in the Swedish East India Company Sales Catalog (1735), containing goods brought home by the ship Ulrica Elenora, held in the archive of the Danish West Indian Company (Vestindisk-Guineisk Kompagni), in the series: Charles Barringtons med Grevinden af Laurwigen hjemførte arkiv, 1725-1738, Volume 219, Danish National Archive (Rigsarkivet), Copenhagen. \"}}","title":"100","enclosures":[],"url":{"rel":"self","length":0,"href":"https://warwick.ac.uk/fac/arts/history/ghcc/eac/databases/textiles/catalogue/store/?selectedLetter=num#def-100"},"content":"","script":"","entryId":"094d43a2407db20b01409cd2c9b51796","lastUpdated":1417687061047,"anchor":"def-100","parsedContentBody":"","id":"094d43a2407db20b01409cd2c9b51796","categories":[],"publicationDate":1417687061047,"authors":[{"name":"David Beck"}]},{"metadata":"{\"published\":true,\"details\":{\"EICname\":\"Emertie, Emerty?\",\"names\":\"pl. Emerties\",\"place\":[\"India - Bengal\"],\"material\":[\"Cotton\"],\"dimensions\":\"12 1/2 yd x 1 yd, 13 yd x 7/8 yd, 13 yd x 1 yd, 13 1/2 yd x 1 yd, 14 yd x ?, 18 yd x 3/4 yd, ? x 1 1/8 yd, ? 1 3/16 yd,\",\"market\":\"English\"},\"notes\":{\"notes\":\"some Emerties ordered \\\"without Congee\\\"\"}}","title":"101","enclosures":[],"url":{"rel":"self","length":0,"href":"https://warwick.ac.uk/fac/arts/history/ghcc/eac/databases/textiles/catalogue/store/?selectedLetter=num#def-101"},"content":"","script":"","entryId":"094d43a2407dbf6301409cdc670e16ac","lastUpdated":1377021224000,"anchor":"def-101","parsedContentBody":"","id":"094d43a2407dbf6301409cdc670e16ac","categories":[],"publicationDate":1377021224000,"authors":[{"name":"David Beck"}]},{"metadata":"{\"published\":true,\"image\":[{\"url\":\"gurrah_p._145_1116_040.jpg\",\"imgnotes\":\"Swedish East India Company Sales Catalogue (1735), containing goods brought home by the ship Ulrica Elenora. Images from copy with textile samples, held in archive of the Danish West Indian Company (Vestindisk-Guineisk Kompagni), in the series: Charles Barringtons med Grevinden af Laurwigen hjemførte arkiv, 1725-1738, Volume 219, Danish National Archive (Rigsarkivet), Copenhagen. \"}],\"details\":{\"EICname\":\"Gurrah\",\"names\":\"Geras, Garras, Gurras\",\"place\":[\"India - Bengal\"],\"placeprod\":\"Jugdea\",\"dimensions\":\"2 yd x broadest, 3 cov x 2 1/8-1/4 cov, 4 cov x 2 1/4 cov, 5 1/2 cov x 3 cov, 6 1/2 cov x 3 cov, 6 1/2 cov x 5 cov, 15 yd x ?, 18 yd x ?, 36 yd x ?, 30 cov x ?, 36 cov x ?, 37 1/2 cov x ?, 72 cov x ?, 75 cov x ?, \",\"market\":\"English\"},\"notes\":{\"notes\":\"The shorter length Gurrahs ordered as sheets, often to be thick. Some of these to be \\\"common, unbeat, without Congee\\\".\\r\\n\\r\\nFlorence Montgomery, p.254: 'Plain cotton cloth made in north east India (Irwin and Schwarz). It was used in England and France in the eighteenth century for coarse printing (Wadsworth and Mann, p.163). A memoir of about 1758, probably written in Rouen, stated 'on a cherché en France imiter les Garats, sortes de Toile des Indes la plus adaptée a l'impression' (Kress, S4130). It was also used for table linen and other household purposes. For swatches of gurrah, see John Forbes Watson, 8: nos 297,299, 300, 302 300; 'The name gera was probably derived from Hindi garha. In west India it was khadi: an undecorated white cloth, some of which were bleached. There was an obvious quality difference if more or less thread was used. Sometimes it was specified that one cloth should weigh five pounds. The English exported the geras from Madras to Manila. The Dutch exported them from Bengal to Japan in large quantities. It was often listed as belonging to the set to calicoes to which salempore and guinees cloth belonged. In India it provided clothing for the poor. In Europe it was used for everyday household linen, for example tablecloths. Wellington, p.221 Guras: Printed cloth from Bengal (Savary, 2, 296).\",\"contemporary\":\"A sample of a gurrah can be seen in the Swedish East India Company Sales Catalog (1735), containing goods brought home by the ship Ulrica Elenora, held in archive of the Danish West Indian Company (Vestindisk-Guineisk Kompagni), in the series: Charles Barringtons med Grevinden af Laurwigen hjemførte arkiv, 1725-1738, Volume 219, Danish National Archive (Rigsarkivet), Copenhagen. \"}}","title":"102","enclosures":[],"url":{"rel":"self","length":0,"href":"https://warwick.ac.uk/fac/arts/history/ghcc/eac/databases/textiles/catalogue/store/?selectedLetter=num#def-102"},"content":"","script":"","entryId":"094d43a2407dbf6301409ce5eb711739","lastUpdated":1417687171186,"anchor":"def-102","parsedContentBody":"","id":"094d43a2407dbf6301409ce5eb711739","categories":[],"publicationDate":1417687171186,"authors":[{"name":"David Beck"}]},{"metadata":"{\"published\":true,\"details\":{\"EICname\":\"Humade, Humade?\",\"place\":[\"India - Bengal\"],\"market\":\"English\"}}","title":"103","enclosures":[],"url":{"rel":"self","length":0,"href":"https://warwick.ac.uk/fac/arts/history/ghcc/eac/databases/textiles/catalogue/store/?selectedLetter=num#def-103"},"content":"","script":"","entryId":"094d43a2407db20b01409cf67dd51a42","lastUpdated":1377022934000,"anchor":"def-103","parsedContentBody":"","id":"094d43a2407db20b01409cf67dd51a42","categories":[],"publicationDate":1377022934000,"authors":[{"name":"David Beck"}]},{"metadata":"{\"published\":true,\"image\":[{\"url\":\"HUMHUMnegotiationprotokoll1116043.jpg\",\"viewable\":\"HUMHUMnegotiationprotokoll1116043.jpg\",\"imgnotes\":\"Swedish East India Company Sales Catalog (1735), containing goods brought home by the ship Ulrica Elenora. Images from copy with textile samples, held in archive of the Danish West Indian Company (Vestindisk-Guineisk Kompagni), in the series: Charles Barringtons med Grevinden af Laurwigen hjemførte arkiv, 1725-1738, Volume 219, Danish National Archive (Rigsarkivet), Copenhagen. \"}],\"details\":{\"EICname\":\"Humhum\",\"place\":[\"India - Bengal\"],\"placeprod\":\"Jugdea\",\"finish\":[\"embroidered\",\"quilted\"],\"market\":\"English\",\"colours\":[\"red&green\",\"red&green&yellow\",\"white\"],\"pattern\":[\"flowered\"]},\"notes\":{\"notes\":\"Some Humhums ordered \\\"without Congee\\\". Florence Montgomery, p.262: Plain cotton of thick, stout texture woven in Bengal. It has also been suggested that humhum resembled modern Turkish towelling, that it was a coarse India cotton found only in wealthy homes, and that it was used for general utility purposes such as towelling (Larson, p.29); Laarhoven: The name is related to the Turkish bath in Arabic hammam where the cloth was used as towelling. The cloths had a strong thick weave, some a gold kepala i.e. gold coloured weft threads were woven in at certain distances to give a stripe effect. Chaudhuri, p.504: plain white muslin. Bengal. Superior to fine quality, Clothing and re-export trade. Seventeenth to eighteenth centuries. Wellington: Hamans, Hamas, Humhums, Hammons, Hamoens, Hamac: 1) White cotton fabric, very fine and close knit. Best are Bangaloises (Savary, 2, 310). 2) Plain cotton cloth of varying qualities of stout texture for outer garments (Irwin, 66).\",\"contemporary\":\"A sample of a humhum can be seen in the Swedish East India Company Sales Catalog (1735), containing goods brought home by the ship Ulrica Elenora, held in archive of the Danish West Indian Company (Vestindisk-Guineisk Kompagni), in the series: Charles Barringtons med Grevinden af Laurwigen hjemførte arkiv, 1725-1738, Volume 219, Danish National Archive (Rigsarkivet), Copenhagen. \"}}","title":"104","enclosures":[],"url":{"rel":"self","length":0,"href":"https://warwick.ac.uk/fac/arts/history/ghcc/eac/databases/textiles/catalogue/store/?selectedLetter=num#def-104"},"content":"","script":"","entryId":"094d43a2407dbf6301409cf8cb461866","lastUpdated":1417687241889,"anchor":"def-104","parsedContentBody":"","id":"094d43a2407dbf6301409cf8cb461866","categories":[],"publicationDate":1417687241889,"authors":[{"name":"David Beck"}]},{"metadata":"{\"published\":true,\"image\":[{\"url\":\"Jamdanee2011FD8763_jpg_ds.jpg\",\"viewable\":\"http://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O110494/scarf-scarf-unknown/\",\"imgnotes\":\"White muslin scarf, figured in the loom ('jamdani' work). Repeated plant motif on ends, trailing plants on borders. Field woven with palmette rosettes. Made Dhaka, Bangladesh, 19th century. Length: 255 cm, Width: 63 cm\\r\\nTransferred from India Museum 1879. 'Jamdani' was among the most valued products of the Dacca looms and prior to 1850 made nowhere else. Until the East India Company became the masters of Bengal in 1757, the finest 'jamdani' was reserved for the Nawab of Murshidabad, European and other merchants being allowed to purchase it only through brokers appointed by the local government. A long-standing tax on 'jamdani' weavers was finally abolished by the Company in 1792, when demand was falling off, no.191.\\r\\n\"}],\"details\":{\"EICname\":\"Jamdannie\",\"names\":\"Jamdanee, Jamdany\",\"place\":[\"India - Bengal\"],\"technique\":\"muslin\",\"finish\":[\"embroidered\"],\"dimensions\":\"? x 1 yd, ? x 1 1/8 yd, ? 1 1/4 yd,\",\"market\":\"English\",\"colours\":[\"various, on a Tanjeeb ground\",\"white on a Tanjeeb ground\"],\"pattern\":[\"flowered\",\"striped and flowered\"]},\"notes\":{\"notes\":\"Florence Montgomery, p.270: Muslin, brocaded in white or coloured silk or cotton, usually with floral patter (Irwin and Schwartz). It was like a dorea, sometimes woven of mixed cotton and silk, and was an expensive fabric. Swatches are in John Forbes Watson (7: swatch nos 253-254); other specimens are preserved in the Indian section at the Victoria and Albert Museum (Irwin and Schwartz). Wellington: Jamadane, Jamdanies, Jamdannes, Jandanee, Jamdanis, Jamdars: 1) Muslin, brocaded in white or coloured silk to cotton usually in floral pattern. Sometimes woven like Doreas (Irwin, 66), 2) Brocaded with white or coloured silk, luxury quality. Fashionwear, Bengal. 17th-18th century. (Chaudhuri, 504). 3) Group of costly fine cotton muslins in elaborate woven designs, (Wingate, 315).\"}}","title":"105","enclosures":[],"url":{"rel":"self","length":0,"href":"https://warwick.ac.uk/fac/arts/history/ghcc/eac/databases/textiles/catalogue/store/?selectedLetter=num#def-105"},"content":"","script":"","entryId":"094d43a2407db20b01409cfd9ce01ac2","lastUpdated":1417687388926,"anchor":"def-105","parsedContentBody":"","id":"094d43a2407db20b01409cfd9ce01ac2","categories":[],"publicationDate":1417687388926,"authors":[{"name":"David Beck"}]},{"metadata":"{\"published\":true,\"details\":{\"EICname\":\"Jellosie\",\"place\":[\"India - Bengal\"],\"market\":\"English\"}}","title":"106","enclosures":[],"url":{"rel":"self","length":0,"href":"https://warwick.ac.uk/fac/arts/history/ghcc/eac/databases/textiles/catalogue/store/?selectedLetter=num#def-106"},"content":"","script":"","entryId":"094d43a2407dbf6301409cff224618e7","lastUpdated":1414599472437,"anchor":"def-106","parsedContentBody":"","id":"094d43a2407dbf6301409cff224618e7","categories":[],"publicationDate":1414599472437,"authors":[{"name":"David Beck"}]},{"metadata":"{\"published\":true,\"details\":{\"EICname\":\"Jamwar\",\"place\":[\"India - Bengal\"],\"technique\":\"brocaded\",\"material\":[\"Silk\"],\"dimensions\":\"10 yd x 1 1/8 yd, 11 yd x 1 ell, 14 yd x 1 1/4 yd, 15 yd x 3/4 yd, 18 yd x 3/4 yd, 20 cov x 2 cov, 20 cov x 2 1/4 cov, 30 cov x 1 5/8 cov,\",\"market\":\"English\",\"colours\":[\"bright, light, skys, yellows etc\",\"light\",\"lively\",\"various\"],\"pattern\":[\"flowered\",\"sprigged\",\"striped and sprigged\"]},\"notes\":{\"notes\":\"Some Jamwars ordered as \\\"Taffaty Sorts\\\".\\r\\nWellington: Jamavas, Jamawars, Jamavers: 1) Indian taffetaas flowered in gold or silk, (Savary, 2, 379). 2) Piece goods of silk brocade. (Irwin, 66). 3) Obsolete lightweight handwoven brocaded silk taffetas from madras (Wingate, 315).\"}}","title":"107","enclosures":[],"url":{"rel":"self","length":0,"href":"https://warwick.ac.uk/fac/arts/history/ghcc/eac/databases/textiles/catalogue/store/?selectedLetter=num#def-107"},"content":"","script":"","entryId":"094d43a2407db20b01409d04fd811b45","lastUpdated":1417687417482,"anchor":"def-107","parsedContentBody":"","id":"094d43a2407db20b01409d04fd811b45","categories":[],"publicationDate":1417687417482,"authors":[{"name":"David Beck"}]},{"metadata":"{\"published\":true,\"details\":{\"EICname\":\"Jillmill\",\"place\":[\"India - Bengal\"],\"market\":\"English\",\"colours\":[\"various\"]}}","title":"108","enclosures":[],"url":{"rel":"self","length":0,"href":"https://warwick.ac.uk/fac/arts/history/ghcc/eac/databases/textiles/catalogue/store/?selectedLetter=num#def-108"},"content":"","script":"","entryId":"094d43a2407dbf6301409d06191a1969","lastUpdated":1377023957000,"anchor":"def-108","parsedContentBody":"","id":"094d43a2407dbf6301409d06191a1969","categories":[],"publicationDate":1377023957000,"authors":[{"name":"David Beck"}]},{"metadata":"{\"published\":true,\"details\":{\"EICname\":\"Luckhowrie\",\"place\":[\"India - Bengal\"],\"dimensions\":\"12 1/2 yd x ?, 13 yd x ?, 14 yd x ?, / x 1 yd, ? x 1 1/8 yd,\",\"market\":\"English\"},\"notes\":{\"notes\":\"some Luckhowries ordered \\\"without Congee\\\"\\r\\nsome Luckhowries ordered with Emerties\"}}","title":"109","enclosures":[],"url":{"rel":"self","length":0,"href":"https://warwick.ac.uk/fac/arts/history/ghcc/eac/databases/textiles/catalogue/store/?selectedLetter=num#def-109"},"content":"","script":"","entryId":"094d43a2407dbf6301409d0892581992","lastUpdated":1377024119000,"anchor":"def-109","parsedContentBody":"","id":"094d43a2407dbf6301409d0892581992","categories":[],"publicationDate":1377024119000,"authors":[{"name":"David Beck"}]},{"metadata":"{\"published\":true,\"details\":{\"EICname\":\"Goshee\",\"place\":[\"China\"],\"finish\":[\"painted\"],\"material\":[\"Silk\"],\"dimensions\":\"15 yd x ?, 16 yd x 13/16 yd, 18 yd x ?,\",\"market\":\"English\",\"colours\":[\"ash\",\"ash and lemon, changeable\",\"ash various colours, loan\",\"ash, dark\",\"black\",\"blue\",\"blue, Mazareen\",\"blue, Mazareen, light\",\"blue, sky\",\"blue, sky and lemon, changeable\",\"blue, sky and white, changeable\",\"blue, sky deep and midling, loan\",\"cherry\",\"cherry and deep pink\",\"cherry and white, changeable\",\"cherry and yellow, changeable\",\"cherry, loan\",\"cloth\",\"cloth and ash\",\"cloth and lemon, changeable\",\"cloth and light ash, changeable\",\"cloth and sky, changeable\",\"cloth various colours, loan\",\"cloth, light\",\"cloth, very light\",\"crimson\",\"crimson in grain\",\"green\",\"green, dark\",\"green, sea\",\"jonquil\",\"jonquil, light\",\"jonquil, very light\",\"pearl\",\"pink\",\"pink, pale\",\"purple in grain\",\"red\",\"scarlet\",\"scarlett in grain,loan\",\"straw\",\"two colours (changeable)\",\"white\",\"white grounds, pale colours\",\"yellow\",\"Yellow and white, changeable\",\"yellow, deep\",\"yellow, loan\"],\"pattern\":[\"plain\",\"patterned\",\"striped\",\"flowered\"]}}","title":"11","enclosures":[],"url":{"rel":"self","length":0,"href":"https://warwick.ac.uk/fac/arts/history/ghcc/eac/databases/textiles/catalogue/store/?selectedLetter=num#def-11"},"content":"","script":"","entryId":"094d43a24073538f01407874c9234999","lastUpdated":1376580793000,"anchor":"def-11","parsedContentBody":"","id":"094d43a24073538f01407874c9234999","categories":[],"publicationDate":1376580793000,"authors":[{"name":"David Beck"}]},{"metadata":"{\"published\":true,\"details\":{\"EICname\":\"Mamudhiatee\",\"place\":[\"India - Bengal\"],\"market\":\"English\"},\"notes\":{\"notes\":\"Laarhoven: Also mamudis, mamoudys, mammoodies. Cotton, muslins. Orginally a cheap cotton cloth. A Persian coin went by the same name. India exported printed coloured chintz mamudis, but to England and France they were of yellow silk and taken to the cotton factory for printing in colour. They came in different qualities.\"}}","title":"110","enclosures":[],"url":{"rel":"self","length":0,"href":"https://warwick.ac.uk/fac/arts/history/ghcc/eac/databases/textiles/catalogue/store/?selectedLetter=num#def-110"},"content":"","script":"","entryId":"094d43a2407dbf6301409d0a2f8019ab","lastUpdated":1411477578123,"anchor":"def-110","parsedContentBody":"","id":"094d43a2407dbf6301409d0a2f8019ab","categories":[],"publicationDate":1411477578123,"authors":[{"name":"David Beck"}]},{"metadata":"{\"published\":true,\"details\":{\"EICname\":\"Mulmul\",\"names\":\"Malmal, Molmol, Milmil?\",\"place\":[\"India - Bengal\"],\"placeprod\":\"Savagepore, Dacca, Santipore, Cossajura, Serry, Sabbatchpore,\",\"finish\":[\"embroidered\"],\"material\":[\"Cotton\"],\"dimensions\":\"10 yd x 1 yd, 20 yd x 1 yd, 20 yd x 1 1/2 yd, 24 yd x 1 yd, 36 cov x 1 3/4 cov, 40 cov x 2 1/4 cov, ? x 1 1/8 yd, ? x 1 3/8 yd, ? x 1 1/4 yd 1 ell,\",\"market\":\"English\",\"colours\":[\"blue\",\"green\",\"red\",\"various\"],\"pattern\":[\"flowered\"]},\"notes\":{\"notes\":\"Some Dacca Mulmuls ordered \\\"fine, with gold ends\\\". Laarhoven: (Milmils, cotton muslin, no clear distinction has been found so far between cassas and mills muslins. The mills are superior to betille and were considered a luxury cloth in Indonesia, They are not the same as mammals, because they are listed separately in the same invoices, orders and auction lists). Malmal, a fine muslin ranked second in Irwin and Scwartz's classification (1966:49) had been known and traded prior to the VOC period. It was mentioned in Chinese sources in the early 15th century (Barbosa, 1921: 145 ftn 3). The finest pieces were white and came from Dacca. After a few washings the white turned yellow. Pieces of undecorated malmal were often sent to Dacca for embroidery. THe muslin came in many grades of fineness of thread and embroidery. The alibal malmal was superfine, ali meaning superior in Arabic. The fineness of the threads required that it be woven during the rainy season, the moisture in the air kept the threads elastic and stopped them from breaking too easily (Mehta, 1970, 4-7). There are too many variets to recount here. Most of them were exported to Europe. The ordinary ones reached Indonesia. It took at least five months to weave one malmal. The embroidery consisted of flowers for Europe, but flamed ones and with gold kepala are also mentioned in an auction list of 1768.\",\"contemporary\":\"'The Times', 4 March 1790 Declaration of the Second Sale at the British Hall, London. By Order of the Managers acting on behalf of the Associated Manufacturer and others in Great Britain. Notice is hereby given .... agreeable to the Act of Last Sessions of Parliament .... the sale will begin precisely at five o'clock in the afternoon. The Whole Goods will be exposed, come immediately from the hands of the actual Manufacturers, and consist of the following articles ... 2,162 pieces Jaconet, Malmul and Nainsook Muslins\"}}","title":"111","enclosures":[],"url":{"rel":"self","length":0,"href":"https://warwick.ac.uk/fac/arts/history/ghcc/eac/databases/textiles/catalogue/store/?selectedLetter=num#def-111"},"content":"","script":"","entryId":"094d43a2407dbf6301409d12b54c1a4f","lastUpdated":1411731755173,"anchor":"def-111","parsedContentBody":"","id":"094d43a2407dbf6301409d12b54c1a4f","categories":[],"publicationDate":1411731755173,"authors":[{"name":"David Beck"}]},{"metadata":"{\"published\":true,\"details\":{\"EICname\":\"Muctadotie\",\"place\":[\"India - Bengal\"],\"dimensions\":\"30 cov x ?,\",\"market\":\"English\"}}","title":"112","enclosures":[],"url":{"rel":"self","length":0,"href":"https://warwick.ac.uk/fac/arts/history/ghcc/eac/databases/textiles/catalogue/store/?selectedLetter=num#def-112"},"content":"","script":"","entryId":"094d43a2407dbf6301409d13f3521a60","lastUpdated":1377024865000,"anchor":"def-112","parsedContentBody":"","id":"094d43a2407dbf6301409d13f3521a60","categories":[],"publicationDate":1377024865000,"authors":[{"name":"David Beck"}]},{"metadata":"{\"published\":true,\"image\":[{\"url\":\"2012FL4019_jpg_ds.jpg\",\"imgnotes\":\"V&A Museum no.8650 (S). Length of fine white muslin, chikan embroidery in cotton, probably made in Dhaka, Bangladesh 19th c. Length 1144 cm, width 89 cm. Transferred from th India Museum 1879.\"}],\"details\":{\"EICname\":\"Muslin\",\"place\":[\"India - Bengal\"],\"placeprod\":\"Ballasore\",\"technique\":\"muslin\",\"material\":[\"Cotton\"],\"dimensions\":\"20 yd x 1 yd,\",\"market\":\"English\",\"pattern\":[\"plain\"]},\"notes\":{\"notes\":\"Ballasore Muslin ordered \\\"same Fabrick as Hankerchiefs\\\" some ordered with \\\"gold heads\\\".\\r\\nFlorence Montgomery: A fine cotton textile first are in India. Tavernier a 17th c merchant and traveller wrote of the 'calicurs [muslins sold in Calcutta] made to fine you can hardly feel them in your hand, and the thread when spy, is scarce discernible'. \",\"contemporary\":\"'Trewman's Exeter Flying Post or Plymouth and Cornish Advertiser', 9 April 1812. General Observations on Fashion and Dress from La Belle Assemblee: though  India Muslins of every description, particularly the fine  Decca, are in peculiar favour, notwithstanding the inclemency of the weather, in the commencement of the month of March. ...but  fine India muslins of almost a cobweb texture, are often seen on a great number of ladies  where there are large parties ; they are worn with white satin bodies or eymars with Arcadian points, the muslins elegantly trimmed with lace, and the points of the cymar trimmed with tasel fringe or beads \\r\\n\\r\\n'World and Fashionable Advertiser' 23 April 1787\\r\\nThe Dresses In the Play at RICHMOND HOUSE\\r\\nMiss Campbell - an India muslin worked with gold upon a red ground ....\\r\\n\\r\\n'Observer' 7 May 1797. Female Fashions for May\\r\\nFull Dress - the hair cropped and dressed without powder, in bushy curls. Turban of India muslin, intermixed with yellow stained muslin ; black velvet bandeau set with diamonds ; large gold tassel on the top of the crown. White muslin petticoat richly embroidered in stripes and flowers, trimmed at the bottom with white satin ribband.\"}}","title":"113","enclosures":[],"url":{"rel":"self","length":0,"href":"https://warwick.ac.uk/fac/arts/history/ghcc/eac/databases/textiles/catalogue/store/?selectedLetter=num#def-113"},"content":"","script":"","entryId":"094d43a2407db20b01409d1668a01c5f","lastUpdated":1419243153022,"anchor":"def-113","parsedContentBody":"","id":"094d43a2407db20b01409d1668a01c5f","categories":[],"publicationDate":1419243153022,"authors":[{"name":"David Beck"}]},{"metadata":"{\"published\":true,\"details\":{\"EICname\":\"Nainsook\",\"place\":[\"India - Bengal\"],\"placeprod\":\"Gopaulpoor\",\"dimensions\":\"? x 1 1/2 yd\",\"market\":\"English\",\"pattern\":[\"plain\"]},\"notes\":{\"notes\":\"Florence Montgomery, p.307 Afine white cotton muslin of plain weave made in imitation of an Indian cloth, and described by G.S. Cole as made plain, striped in the warp and in small damasked checks. It was used as a summer fabric, principally for the making of white dresses, aprons, infants' wear, and lingerie. In this century it is described as a soft-finished white cotton fabric with a polish on one side, lighter in weight than longcloth and more highly finished; not so closely woven as cambric but heavier than batiste (Denny). Ackermann presents a swatch of white 'Striped muslin or Nainsook' with heavier warp cords for morning dress/ \",\"contemporary\":\"'The Times', 4 March 1790 Declaration of the Second Sale at the British Hall, London. By Order of the Managers acting on behalf of the Associated Manufacturer and others in Great Britain. Notice is hereby given .... agreeable to the Act of Last Sessions of Parliament .... the sale will begin precisely at five o'clock in the afternoon. The Whole Goods will be exposed, come immediately from the hands of the actual Manufacturers, and consist of the following articles ..' 2,162 pieces Jaconet, Malmul and Nainsook Muslins\"}}","title":"114","enclosures":[],"url":{"rel":"self","length":0,"href":"https://warwick.ac.uk/fac/arts/history/ghcc/eac/databases/textiles/catalogue/store/?selectedLetter=num#def-114"},"content":"","script":"","entryId":"094d43a2407dbf6301409d1a180d1acc","lastUpdated":1414752645628,"anchor":"def-114","parsedContentBody":"","id":"094d43a2407dbf6301409d1a180d1acc","categories":[],"publicationDate":1414752645628,"authors":[{"name":"David Beck"}]},{"metadata":"{\"published\":true,\"details\":{\"EICname\":\"Nillae\",\"place\":[\"India - Bengal\"],\"placeprod\":\"Orrua\",\"dimensions\":\"20 cov x 2 cov,\",\"market\":\"English\",\"colours\":[\"bright\",\"brisk, bright\",\"glossy & bright/black white & sad\"],\"pattern\":[\"patterned\"]},\"notes\":{\"notes\":\"Some Nillaes ordered \\\"with little or no Congee\\\". Florence Montgomery, p.310: A 'striped cloth of mixed Tussur silk and cotton, occasionally flowered' (Irwin and Schwartz). Imported from Bengal in 1679, most prized were 'the sort that are finest and most Glossy and striped with the lightest colours as hair colour, sky colour and the like, but those that are Red and Tauny ground striped with black are not vendible '(Irwn and Schwartz). In London in 1767 Samuel Rowland Fisher ordered fifteen pieces of nillaes at 17 shillings each along with other Indian goods.\"}}","title":"115","enclosures":[],"url":{"rel":"self","length":0,"href":"https://warwick.ac.uk/fac/arts/history/ghcc/eac/databases/textiles/catalogue/store/?selectedLetter=num#def-115"},"content":"","script":"","entryId":"094d43a2407db20b01409d1d07f61ce7","lastUpdated":1411477695597,"anchor":"def-115","parsedContentBody":"","id":"094d43a2407db20b01409d1d07f61ce7","categories":[],"publicationDate":1411477695597,"authors":[{"name":"David Beck"}]},{"metadata":"{\"published\":true,\"details\":{\"EICname\":\"Peniasco\",\"place\":[\"India - Bengal\"],\"market\":\"English\",\"colours\":[\"brisk, light\",\"cloth\",\"no light colours, most browns and purples \",\"various, light\"],\"pattern\":[\"plain\",\"patterned\",\"striped\",\"speckled\"]}}","title":"116","enclosures":[],"url":{"rel":"self","length":0,"href":"https://warwick.ac.uk/fac/arts/history/ghcc/eac/databases/textiles/catalogue/store/?selectedLetter=num#def-116"},"content":"","script":"","entryId":"094d43a2407db20b0140a0a0773b49cc","lastUpdated":1377084405000,"anchor":"def-116","parsedContentBody":"","id":"094d43a2407db20b0140a0a0773b49cc","categories":[],"publicationDate":1377084405000,"authors":[{"name":"David Beck"}]},{"metadata":"{\"published\":true,\"details\":{\"EICname\":\"Phota\",\"names\":\"pl. Photaes\",\"place\":[\"India - Bengal\"],\"placeprod\":\"Mura\",\"market\":\"English\",\"colours\":[\"blue\",\"blue and red\",\"blue and white\",\"bright\",\"red and blue\",\"red and dark colours, no blues\",\"red, lively\"]},\"notes\":{\"notes\":\"Photaes Mura ordered \\\"not in Lungees\\\"\\r\\nSome Photaes ordered \\\"without borders\\\"\"}}","title":"117","enclosures":[],"url":{"rel":"self","length":0,"href":"https://warwick.ac.uk/fac/arts/history/ghcc/eac/databases/textiles/catalogue/store/?selectedLetter=num#def-117"},"content":"","script":"","entryId":"094d43a2407dbf630140a0aa06df4846","lastUpdated":1377085032000,"anchor":"def-117","parsedContentBody":"","id":"094d43a2407dbf630140a0aa06df4846","categories":[],"publicationDate":1377085032000,"authors":[{"name":"David Beck"}]},{"metadata":"{\"published\":true,\"details\":{\"EICname\":\"Reehin\",\"place\":[\"India - Bengal\"],\"market\":\"English\"}}","title":"118","enclosures":[],"url":{"rel":"self","length":0,"href":"https://warwick.ac.uk/fac/arts/history/ghcc/eac/databases/textiles/catalogue/store/?selectedLetter=num#def-118"},"content":"","script":"","entryId":"094d43a2407db20b0140a0ab43044acb","lastUpdated":1377085113000,"anchor":"def-118","parsedContentBody":"","id":"094d43a2407db20b0140a0ab43044acb","categories":[],"publicationDate":1377085113000,"authors":[{"name":"David Beck"}]},{"metadata":"{\"published\":true,\"image\":[{\"url\":\"SANOEnegotiationprotokoll1116030.JPG\",\"imgnotes\":\"Swedish East India Company Sales Catalog (1735), containing goods brought home by the ship Ulrica Elenora. Images from copy with textile samples, held in archive of the Danish West Indian Company (Vestindisk-Guineisk Kompagni), in the series: Charles Barringtons med Grevinden af Laurwigen hjemførte arkiv, 1725-1738, Volume 219, Danish National Archive (Rigsarkivet), Copenhagen. \"}],\"details\":{\"EICname\":\"Sanno\",\"place\":[\"India - Bengal\"],\"placeprod\":\"Ballasore\",\"finish\":[\"plain\",\"glazed\",\"painted\",\"embroidered\",\"quilted\"],\"dimensions\":\">12 yd x >1yd, 12 1/2 yd x ?, 13 yd x ?, 14 yd x ?,\",\"market\":\"English\",\"colours\":[\"blue\",\"red\",\"white ground\",\"yellow\"],\"pattern\":[\"striped\"]},\"notes\":{\"notes\":\"Sannoes often ordered \\\"without Congee\\\"\\r\\nstriped Sannoes ordered \\\"like a Charrodarry of 4 rupees\\\". Wellington: Sanas, Sannoes,: 1) White to blue cotton cloth, Neither fine nor coarse. Bengal (Savary,2,1457), 2) Plain cotton cloth of ordinary quality, lots exported to France in 17th and 18th , Garments. (Wingate, 523)\"}}","title":"119","enclosures":[],"url":{"rel":"self","length":0,"href":"https://warwick.ac.uk/fac/arts/history/ghcc/eac/databases/textiles/catalogue/store/?selectedLetter=num#def-119"},"content":"","script":"","entryId":"094d43a2407dbf630140a0c199674a40","lastUpdated":1416146390252,"anchor":"def-119","parsedContentBody":"","id":"094d43a2407dbf630140a0c199674a40","categories":[],"publicationDate":1416146390252,"authors":[{"name":"David Beck"}]},{"metadata":"{\"published\":true,\"image\":[{\"url\":\"2014HC9323_jpg_o.jpg\",\"viewable\":\"http://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O1244844/banyan-unknown/\",\"imgnotes\":\"V&A Museum No/T.31-2012. The loosely cut style of the banyan (a man's informal robe) is based on that of the Japanese kimono. Robes like this became popular in Europe from the mid-17th century, brought back by members of the East India Company, and by the 1670s European tailors were making banyans, also known as nightgowns. During the 18th century nightgowns evolved into several different shapes, from the simple T- shape of the original kimono to others cut more like the European coat. Their generically 'oriental' air was part of a wider taste for exotic designs that formed part of the fashion for Chinoiserie.\\r\\n\\r\\nThis banyan is a striking and rare example, in very good condition for its age, made from blue silk damask woven in China for import into Europe. Such silks were primarily intended for furnishing, and appear in merchants' records as 'bed damasks'; the length of their pattern repeat was displayed to best advantage in the long drop of bed curtains. A silk damask of closely similar design to this was used to furnish a room in the summer palace of Prince Eugene of Savoy, Schlosshof, in 1725 (now in MAK in Vienna).\"}],\"details\":{\"EICname\":\"Goshee Damask\",\"place\":[\"China\"],\"technique\":\"damask\",\"material\":[\"Silk\"],\"dimensions\":\"15 yd x unknown\",\"market\":\"English\",\"colours\":[\"colour'd\",\"two colours\",\"white\"],\"pattern\":[\"flowered\"]},\"notes\":{\"notes\":\"Florence Montgomery, p.247 Possibly a silk/cotton fabric made in China or India (Lee-Whitman, p.28).\"}}","title":"12","enclosures":[],"url":{"rel":"self","length":0,"href":"https://warwick.ac.uk/fac/arts/history/ghcc/eac/databases/textiles/catalogue/store/?selectedLetter=num#def-12"},"content":"","script":"","entryId":"094d43a24073538f01407879ea1d4a16","lastUpdated":1416137321050,"anchor":"def-12","parsedContentBody":"","id":"094d43a24073538f01407879ea1d4a16","categories":[],"publicationDate":1416137321050,"authors":[{"name":"David Beck"}]},{"metadata":"{\"published\":true,\"image\":[{\"url\":\"SEERSUCKERnegotiationprotokoll1116064.JPG\",\"imgnotes\":\"Swedish East India Company Sales Catalog (1735), containing goods brought home by the ship Ulrica Elenora. Images from copy with textile samples, held in archive of the Danish West Indian Company (Vestindisk-Guineisk Kompagni), in the series: Charles Barringtons med Grevinden af Laurwigen hjemførte arkiv, 1725-1738, Volume 219, Danish National Archive (Rigsarkivet), Copenhagen. \"},{\"viewable\":\"http://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O477761/fragment-unknown/\",\"imgnotes\":\"Silk seersucker, made in Dhaka, Bangladesh, c.1872. Length 90.5 cm. width 93.5 cm.Museum no. 8848 (S). Woven silk fragment, with vertical stripes of white cotton seersucker and undyed tussar silk. Cut at both ends; the width is complete. See further Bonita Trust Indian Textiles Cataloguing Project\"}],\"details\":{\"EICname\":\"Seersucker\",\"place\":[\"India - Bengal\"],\"material\":[\"Cotton\"],\"dimensions\":\"12 yd x 7/8 yd,\",\"market\":\"English\",\"colours\":[\"blue\",\"green\",\"light\",\"pink\",\"pink, blew, gold, light\",\"red\",\"yellow\"],\"pattern\":[\"striped\"]},\"notes\":{\"notes\":\"Ordered to be \\\"silky\\\". Florence Montgomery, p.343: An Indian striped fabric of mixed silk and cotton exported to England from the end of the seventeenth century. The name is a corruption of the Person shir-o-shakar meaning 'milk and water', a term found in sixteeenth-century inventories and dictionaries (Cummin, 'EarlySeersucker'). As in England, an exotic name was adopted fro a native manufacture, and both Paulet and Joubert described cirsakas which can be identified with eighteenth century swatches in the Musée Historique des Tissues at Lyons (Wiederkehr, pp.90-98). The background weaves varied from tabby for summer goods to twill for autumn and satin for winter. The patterns resembled droguets. \"}}","title":"120","enclosures":[],"url":{"rel":"self","length":0,"href":"https://warwick.ac.uk/fac/arts/history/ghcc/eac/databases/textiles/catalogue/store/?selectedLetter=num#def-120"},"content":"","script":"","entryId":"094d43a2407dbf630140a0d121934b91","lastUpdated":1416147112328,"anchor":"def-120","parsedContentBody":"","id":"094d43a2407dbf630140a0d121934b91","categories":[],"publicationDate":1416147112328,"authors":[{"name":"David Beck"}]},{"metadata":"{\"published\":true,\"details\":{\"EICname\":\"Seerbettee\",\"place\":[\"India - Bengal\"],\"market\":\"English\"}}","title":"121","enclosures":[],"url":{"rel":"self","length":0,"href":"https://warwick.ac.uk/fac/arts/history/ghcc/eac/databases/textiles/catalogue/store/?selectedLetter=num#def-121"},"content":"","script":"","entryId":"094d43a2407db20b0140a0d24c224df6","lastUpdated":1377087671000,"anchor":"def-121","parsedContentBody":"","id":"094d43a2407db20b0140a0d24c224df6","categories":[],"publicationDate":1377087671000,"authors":[{"name":"David Beck"}]},{"metadata":"{\"published\":true,\"details\":{\"EICname\":\"Seerband\",\"place\":[\"India - Bengal\"],\"placeprod\":\"Cossajura\",\"dimensions\":\"1 3/4 yd x ?, ? x 5/8?,\",\"market\":\"English\"},\"notes\":{\"notes\":\"some Seerbands ordered \\\"made into Neckcloths, gold heads\\\"\"}}","title":"122","enclosures":[],"url":{"rel":"self","length":0,"href":"https://warwick.ac.uk/fac/arts/history/ghcc/eac/databases/textiles/catalogue/store/?selectedLetter=num#def-122"},"content":"","script":"","entryId":"094d43a2407dbf630140a0d4e7314bd3","lastUpdated":1377087842000,"anchor":"def-122","parsedContentBody":"","id":"094d43a2407dbf630140a0d4e7314bd3","categories":[],"publicationDate":1377087842000,"authors":[{"name":"David Beck"}]},{"metadata":"{\"published\":true,\"details\":{\"EICname\":\"Seerhaudconna\",\"names\":\"pl. Seerhaudconnaes\",\"place\":[\"India - Bengal\"],\"placeprod\":\"Dacca\",\"market\":\"English\"},\"notes\":{\"notes\":\"Wellington: Seerhaudconnaes, Seerhandconal: 1) Cotton cloth of ordinary quality, (Irwin, 71). 2) Term for various Indian cotton muslin (Wingate, 540).\"}}","title":"123","enclosures":[],"url":{"rel":"self","length":0,"href":"https://warwick.ac.uk/fac/arts/history/ghcc/eac/databases/textiles/catalogue/store/?selectedLetter=num#def-123"},"content":"","script":"","entryId":"094d43a2407dbf630140a0d61d3a4bef","lastUpdated":1412858455989,"anchor":"def-123","parsedContentBody":"","id":"094d43a2407dbf630140a0d61d3a4bef","categories":[],"publicationDate":1412858455989,"authors":[{"name":"David Beck"}]},{"metadata":"{\"published\":true,\"details\":{\"EICname\":\"Shalbaft\",\"place\":[\"India - Bengal\"],\"dimensions\":\"20 yd x ?, 25 yd x ?,\",\"market\":\"English\",\"colours\":[\"blue, sky\",\"bright\",\"light\",\"lively\",\"red\",\"white&green/sky/reds/yellow, various bright\",\"yellow\"]}}","title":"124","enclosures":[],"url":{"rel":"self","length":0,"href":"https://warwick.ac.uk/fac/arts/history/ghcc/eac/databases/textiles/catalogue/store/?selectedLetter=num#def-124"},"content":"","script":"","entryId":"094d43a2407db20b0140a0dc9ed14eb9","lastUpdated":1377088347000,"anchor":"def-124","parsedContentBody":"","id":"094d43a2407db20b0140a0dc9ed14eb9","categories":[],"publicationDate":1377088347000,"authors":[{"name":"David Beck"}]},{"metadata":"{\"published\":true,\"image\":[{\"url\":\"Soosie\",\"viewable\":\"http://www.tmoi.org.uk/?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage-ask.tpl&product_id=140&category_id=83\",\"imgnotes\":\"From Forbes Watson, Textile Manufactures of India, Harris Museum, Preston. No. 140: Piece Goods/Soosee\\r\\nExtra Information: Piece Goods. Cotton Soosee; material for trousers. Produced in Surat, Gujarat, India\\r\\n\"}],\"details\":{\"EICname\":\"Soosie\",\"names\":\"Sousae, Soosey\",\"place\":[\"India - Bengal\"],\"dimensions\":\"20 yd x 3/4 yd, 20 yd x 7/8 yd, 20 yd x 1 yd, 25 yd x 3/4 yd, 25 yd x 7/8 yd, 40 cov x 2 cov, 50 cov x 1 cov, 50 cov x 1 5/8 cov, 50 cov x 14 nail,\",\"market\":\"English\",\"colours\":[\"black and white\",\"brisk, light\",\"light\",\"no red\",\"white&black etc\",\"yellow\"],\"pattern\":[\"striped\",\"checked\"]},\"notes\":{\"notes\":\"Soosies often ordered to be \\\"silky\\\". Florence Montgomery, p.349: A cloth of silk, or mixed cotton and silk, imported from India. It was usually abut a yard wide and varied from 10 to 20 yards in length. Sousaes were much in demand in England attheturn o the eighteenth century; typical orders included checks, small stripes and 'white and black stripes' (Irwin adn Schwartz). Laarhoven: The name comes from Persian susi, a silk crepe. From China came originally blue and white striped crepe silks called soosies. Bengal and Surat also supplied soosies. Bengal produced cotton gauze soosies with a striped warp of silk. If the cloth had two colored warp threads added to it, the name was dokanni, and in the case of three threads tinkanni. In 1750 these threads or very thin lines were redf and purple on an overall white gauze, or black and white etc. Most soosies had a yellowish ground. A variation in 1758 showed soosies with wide stripes of various colors (red, green, yellow) and even withred weft threads crossing the warp stripes, thus making it a check. Ten years later green striped ones became popular. In 1786 all the checked soosie were out of fashion and a few white ones, but more yellow were in demand. Soosie squares (rumals) were also produced. More silk made the soosie stronger. Soosie cloth was used for petticoats and gowns which looked extraordinarily pretty because of the soft colours. It was also used for bed and window curtains'. \",\"contemporary\":\"Anon, The Plain Dealing Linen Draper, 1696: [Under the letter 'S']: Susis shall be the first, it being of most general use of any under this letter; Susis is a sort of Stuff, made of half Silk, half Cotton, and is adorned with very delightful colours, and wears, if not damaged, much beyond your belief, and the more silk in it, the better it wears, it is proper for a great many things, as Gowns and Pettycoats in our Nation, but the greatest and most general use in this Kingdom are for Linnen of Beds and Window Curtains, for which they are extraordinarily pretty, because they are usually light colours, and are cheap'. \\r\\n\\r\\n'Daily Advertiser', 28 November 1783\\r\\nLost on Saturday evening last, out of a Shop in Shoreditch, ten parcels of Silk and six of Soosey Handkerchiefs; among which in particular were eleven Field Culgees and eleven Lustring Checks, both of the largest size; a Dozen Lustring Checks, something similar; a Dozen of embos'd Sattinets, and eleven Barcelonas ; eleven printed Culgees with a purple ground, and six with a red ground ; eleven red and white plad checks, nine Pullicats, nine red and white Sooseys, with five other parcels of Sooseys, two of them Childrens Handkerchiefs. Whoever will bring them, or can give Information of them so as they may be had again, shall receive £5 reward for the whole or in proportion of any part, of Mr Sheppard, at the Swan Tavern, Shoreditch, and no questions ask'd. If offer'd to pawn or sell, pray stop them, and give Notice as above, and you shall receive the same reward, or if already Pawn'd, your money again.\\r\\n\"}}","title":"125","enclosures":[],"url":{"rel":"self","length":0,"href":"https://warwick.ac.uk/fac/arts/history/ghcc/eac/databases/textiles/catalogue/store/?selectedLetter=num#def-125"},"content":"","script":"","entryId":"094d43a2407db20b0140a0e515bf4f73","lastUpdated":1414600847846,"anchor":"def-125","parsedContentBody":"","id":"094d43a2407db20b0140a0e515bf4f73","categories":[],"publicationDate":1414600847846,"authors":[{"name":"David Beck"}]},{"metadata":"{\"published\":true,\"details\":{\"EICname\":\"Tanjeeb\",\"place\":[\"India - Bengal\"],\"placeprod\":\"Dacca, Santose, Cossajura, Jungall, Gopaulpore, Beerpore, Serry, Jugdea,\",\"finish\":[\"embroidered\"],\"dimensions\":\"10 yd x 1 yd, 20 yd x 1 yd, 36 cov x 2 cov, ? X 1 1/8 yd, ? 1 1/4 yd, ? 1 1/4 yd 1 ell,\",\"market\":\"English\",\"colours\":[\"white thread, gold lists\"],\"pattern\":[\"flowered\",\"sprigged\",\"flowered and bordered\"]},\"notes\":{\"notes\":\"some Dacca Tanjeebs ordered with \\\"gold heads\\\"\\r\\nsome Jungall Tanjeebs ordered as \\\"single Hankerchiefs\\\".\\r\\nWellingotn: Tanjeb, Tangib, Tanzeb, Taniab, Tanjeer, Tungeb 1) Muslin or white cotton cloth. Plain or brocaded (Savary, 2, 1664). 2) Palin cotton cloth, usually superior quality sometimes embroidered with silk in chain stitich. Petticoats, dress (Irwin, 72). 3) Plain white muslin, Fine quality. Fashionwear and re-export Bengal. 17-18th c. (Chaudhuri, 505). 4) Lightweight, plain weave, cotton fabric, embroidered to printed (Wingate, 603).\"}}","title":"126","enclosures":[],"url":{"rel":"self","length":0,"href":"https://warwick.ac.uk/fac/arts/history/ghcc/eac/databases/textiles/catalogue/store/?selectedLetter=num#def-126"},"content":"","script":"","entryId":"094d43a2407dbf630140a0ed2bc64dda","lastUpdated":1413202455768,"anchor":"def-126","parsedContentBody":"","id":"094d43a2407dbf630140a0ed2bc64dda","categories":[],"publicationDate":1413202455768,"authors":[{"name":"David Beck"}]},{"metadata":"{\"published\":true,\"details\":{\"EICname\":\"Teepoy\",\"place\":[\"India - Bengal\"],\"dimensions\":\"14 cov x 1 1/2 cov, 28 cov x 1 1/2 cov\",\"market\":\"English\"},\"notes\":{\"notes\":\"Wellington: Tepays, Tepis, Thepays, Thepis, Thebois: 1) Cloth of silk an cotton from India. (Savary, 2, 1714). 2) Mixed cotton and silk. Fine quality. Clothing and re-export. Bengal. 18th c. (Chaudhuri, 505). 3) Tapis is a plain weave, inexpensive fabric made of cotton mixed with a small amount of silk, (Wingate, 610). 4) Tepis is course, East Indian fabric made of cotton and silk (Wingate, 611).\"}}","title":"127","enclosures":[],"url":{"rel":"self","length":0,"href":"https://warwick.ac.uk/fac/arts/history/ghcc/eac/databases/textiles/catalogue/store/?selectedLetter=num#def-127"},"content":"","script":"","entryId":"094d43a2407db20b0140a0eeb9b2504f","lastUpdated":1413202529567,"anchor":"def-127","parsedContentBody":"","id":"094d43a2407db20b0140a0eeb9b2504f","categories":[],"publicationDate":1413202529567,"authors":[{"name":"David Beck"}]},{"metadata":"{\"published\":true,\"details\":{\"EICname\":\"Terrindam\",\"place\":[\"India - Bengal\"],\"placeprod\":\"Coincola\",\"finish\":[\"embroidered\"],\"dimensions\":\"20 yd x 1 3/16 yd, ? x 1 1/8 yd, 40 cov x 2 1/4 cov,\",\"market\":\"English\",\"pattern\":[\"patterned\",\"sprigged\"]},\"notes\":{\"notes\":\"some Terrindams ordered with \\\"gold heads\\\"\\r\\nsome Terrindams ordered \\\"thick, with the Jungall Mark\\\", some Terrindams ordered \\\"marked CBR\\\".\\r\\nWellington: Terindanne, Terrindams, Turundams: 1) Plain muslin, usually of superior quality - Dacca (Irwin, 72). 2) Plain white muslin. Fine to superfine quality. Fashionwear and re-exoprt, Bengal 17th-18th c. (Chaudhuri 505). 3) Fine (Wingate, 611).\"}}","title":"128","enclosures":[],"url":{"rel":"self","length":0,"href":"https://warwick.ac.uk/fac/arts/history/ghcc/eac/databases/textiles/catalogue/store/?selectedLetter=num#def-128"},"content":"","script":"","entryId":"094d43a2407dbf630140a0f436804eb1","lastUpdated":1413201957060,"anchor":"def-128","parsedContentBody":"","id":"094d43a2407dbf630140a0f436804eb1","categories":[],"publicationDate":1413201957060,"authors":[{"name":"David Beck"}]},{"metadata":"{\"published\":true,\"details\":{\"EICname\":\"Terrindin\",\"place\":[\"India - Bengal\"],\"placeprod\":\"Coincola\",\"dimensions\":\"40 cov x 2 1/4 cov\",\"market\":\"English\"},\"notes\":{\"notes\":\"some Terrindins ordered \\\"with gold heads\\\"\"}}","title":"129","enclosures":[],"url":{"rel":"self","length":0,"href":"https://warwick.ac.uk/fac/arts/history/ghcc/eac/databases/textiles/catalogue/store/?selectedLetter=num#def-129"},"content":"","script":"","entryId":"094d43a2407dbf630140a0f5dea04ee8","lastUpdated":1377090002000,"anchor":"def-129","parsedContentBody":"","id":"094d43a2407dbf630140a0f5dea04ee8","categories":[],"publicationDate":1377090002000,"authors":[{"name":"David Beck"}]},{"metadata":"{\"published\":true,\"image\":[{\"url\":\"2014HC9323_jpg_o.jpg\"}],\"details\":{\"EICname\":\"Damask\",\"place\":[\"China\"],\"technique\":\"damask\",\"material\":[\"Silk\"],\"dimensions\":\"15 yd x ?, 16 1/2 yd x ?, 18 yd x ?,\",\"market\":\"English\",\"colours\":[\"various\"],\"pattern\":[\"flowered\"]},\"notes\":{\"notes\":\"Laarhoven: Silk damask from China came in rolls. Europeans named the textile after the place Damascus which in th 12th c. had been famous for this richly worked elaborately figured silk fabric. Some cloths were warp faced, others weft faced. If neither was dominant the cloth wa reversible. The damask patterns could be flowers, arabesques, monograms, coats-of-arms, bit not geometric. as was the case usually in twill. . Much more damask fro China was consumed n Southeast Asia than from Europe. Three hundred rolls or more than 5,000 meters of damask were exchanged for cloves annually in the Maluku. The Chinese damasks were cheaper. One piece of fine damask in Canton in 1600 cost f48 to f60, the price depending on the colour. One handkerchief cost 30.60-f0.80. \",\"contemporary\":\"The Bury and Norwich Post', 10 April 1811\\r\\nPeculiarly elegant and Superb Household Furniture, beautiful china and richly cut glass ... valuable effects of the late John Pogson Esq deceased at Rougham Place, near Bury St Edmunds ... to be sold at Auction ..... a beautiful set of cabinet chairs covered in India Silk Damask... real India Chintz printed cotton .... japanned chairs ...\"}}","title":"13","enclosures":[],"url":{"rel":"self","length":0,"href":"https://warwick.ac.uk/fac/arts/history/ghcc/eac/databases/textiles/catalogue/store/?selectedLetter=num#def-13"},"content":"","script":"","entryId":"094d43a24073538f0140787d4d6f4a4d","lastUpdated":1416136519136,"anchor":"def-13","parsedContentBody":"","id":"094d43a24073538f0140787d4d6f4a4d","categories":[],"publicationDate":1416136519136,"authors":[{"name":"David Beck"}]},{"metadata":"{\"published\":true,\"details\":{\"EICname\":\"Taffa de Foula\",\"names\":\"Taffta (taffeta) de Foula\",\"place\":[\"India - Bengal\"],\"dimensions\":\"10 yd x 1 yd,\",\"market\":\"English\",\"colours\":[\"blue\",\"brown\",\"copper ground\",\"part copper, with some blues\",\"red\",\"various\",\"various, copper border\"],\"pattern\":[\"patterned\",\"flowered\",\"sprigged\",\"bordered\",\"flowered and bordered\"]},\"notes\":{\"notes\":\"most Taffa de Foula ordered as \\\"Hankerchiefs, single\\\"\\r\\nsome Taffa de Foula ordered \\\"not divided into Hankerchiefs\\\"\\r\\nWellington: 6)Taffeta foulards, silk neck cloth.\"}}","title":"130","enclosures":[],"url":{"rel":"self","length":0,"href":"https://warwick.ac.uk/fac/arts/history/ghcc/eac/databases/textiles/catalogue/store/?selectedLetter=num#def-130"},"content":"","script":"","entryId":"094d43a2407dbf630140a105ba1a5088","lastUpdated":1413201836646,"anchor":"def-130","parsedContentBody":"","id":"094d43a2407dbf630140a105ba1a5088","categories":[],"publicationDate":1413201836646,"authors":[{"name":"David Beck"}]},{"metadata":"{\"published\":true,\"details\":{\"EICname\":\"Bed Damask\",\"place\":[\"China\"],\"technique\":\"damask\",\"material\":[\"Silk\"],\"dimensions\":\"15 yd x ?, 18 yd x ?, 18 yd x 3/4 yd,\",\"market\":\"English\",\"colours\":[\"blue\",\"blue, light, loan\",\"blue, sky\",\"blue, sky and white\",\"blue, sky full\",\"blue, sky, deep, loan\",\"blue, sky, full and white\",\"blue, sky, loan\",\"cherry\",\"cherry & pink\",\"cherry & white\",\"cherry & yellow\",\"crimson & white\",\"crimson,loan\",\"green\",\"green, dark\",\"green, dark & white\",\"jonquil\",\"jonquil & white\",\"lively\",\"orange and blue, sky, deep changeable\",\"pink & yellow\",\"red, loan\",\"scarlet\",\"scarlett and blue, sky, changeable\",\"scarlett and green, changeable\",\"scarlett and yellow, changeable\",\"scarlett in grain,loan\",\"two colours (changeable)\",\"yellow\",\"yellow, French\",\"yellow, loan\"],\"pattern\":[\"patterned\",\"flowered\",\"St Paul's work\"]}}","title":"14","enclosures":[],"url":{"rel":"self","length":0,"href":"https://warwick.ac.uk/fac/arts/history/ghcc/eac/databases/textiles/catalogue/store/?selectedLetter=num#def-14"},"content":"","script":"","entryId":"094d43a24073538f01407887c4a34b3b","lastUpdated":1376741493000,"anchor":"def-14","parsedContentBody":"","id":"094d43a24073538f01407887c4a34b3b","categories":[],"publicationDate":1376741493000,"authors":[{"name":"David Beck"}]},{"metadata":"{\"published\":true,\"details\":{\"EICname\":\"Paduasoy\",\"place\":[\"China\"],\"technique\":\"paduasoy/corded\",\"material\":[\"Silk\"],\"dimensions\":\"15 yd x 3/4 yd, 18 yd x 3/4 yd,\",\"market\":\"English\",\"colours\":[\"ash\",\"ash, dark\",\"ash, deep\",\"black\",\"blue\",\"blue, Mazareen\",\"blue, sky\",\"cherry\",\"cloth\",\"cloth, dark\",\"cloth, light\",\"cloth, very light\",\"crimson\",\"crimson in grain\",\"green\",\"pearl\",\"pink\",\"purple in grain\",\"red\",\"scarlet\",\"scarlett in grain,loan\",\"straw\",\"white\",\"yellow\",\"yellow, deep\"],\"pattern\":[\"plain\"]},\"notes\":{\"notes\":\"D. Franklin, 'Artisric chemistry: East meet West', Science News, 29 September 1984 Paduasoy or padesoy /?pædju?.?s??/ (French: peau de soie) is a luxurious strong corded or grosgrain silk textile that originated in Early Modern Europe. The term paduasoy first appeared in English in 1663. Paduasoy silk was woven in a variation of the satin weave, with bindings arranged to create fine cross-ridges across the fabric. In the British East India Company supercargoes' records, examined by Leanna Lee-Whitman, paduasoy made its first appearance in 1736. Its fine appearance is endorsed in a letter of Mrs. Benjamin Franklin to her husband in London, in 1765: \\\"The chairs are plain horsehair and look as well as Paduasoy.\\\"[5] In the British East India records consulted by Leanna Lee-Whitman, black paduasoys completely supplanted \\\"plain\\\" ones after 1761:[6] George Washington commissioned a friend, Tench Tilghman, to purchase numerous household items, \\\"if great bargains are to be had\\\", from the cargo of a ship in the China trade that had docked at Baltimore and were to be auctioned in October 1785. Among his requests, if they could be had cheaply, were \\\"About 13 yds of good black paduasoy\\\".\"}}","title":"15","enclosures":[],"url":{"rel":"self","length":0,"href":"https://warwick.ac.uk/fac/arts/history/ghcc/eac/databases/textiles/catalogue/store/?selectedLetter=num#def-15"},"content":"","script":"","entryId":"094d43a2407dbf630140822832003d53","lastUpdated":1411733139353,"anchor":"def-15","parsedContentBody":"","id":"094d43a2407dbf630140822832003d53","categories":[],"publicationDate":1411733139353,"authors":[{"name":"David Beck"}]},{"metadata":"{\"published\":true,\"details\":{\"EICname\":\"Masquerade\",\"place\":[\"China\"],\"material\":[\"Silk\"],\"market\":\"English\",\"colours\":[\"grave colours\",\"red and blue, sky\"]}}","title":"17","enclosures":[],"url":{"rel":"self","length":0,"href":"https://warwick.ac.uk/fac/arts/history/ghcc/eac/databases/textiles/catalogue/store/?selectedLetter=num#def-17"},"content":"","script":"","entryId":"094d43a2407dbf630140823087993e29","lastUpdated":1376573753000,"anchor":"def-17","parsedContentBody":"","id":"094d43a2407dbf630140823087993e29","categories":[],"publicationDate":1376573753000,"authors":[{"name":"David Beck"}]},{"metadata":"{\"published\":true,\"details\":{\"EICname\":\"Gelong\",\"place\":[\"China\"],\"finish\":[\"painted\"],\"material\":[\"Silk\"],\"dimensions\":\"10 yd x ?, 11 yd x 1/2 ell, 17 yd x ?, 17 yd x 1/2 ell, 22 yd x 1/2 ell,\",\"market\":\"English\",\"colours\":[\"scarlet\",\"white\"]}}","title":"18","enclosures":[],"url":{"rel":"self","length":0,"href":"https://warwick.ac.uk/fac/arts/history/ghcc/eac/databases/textiles/catalogue/store/?selectedLetter=num#def-18"},"content":"","script":"","entryId":"094d43a2407db20b01408233d93940e0","lastUpdated":1376573970000,"anchor":"def-18","parsedContentBody":"","id":"094d43a2407db20b01408233d93940e0","categories":[],"publicationDate":1376573970000,"authors":[{"name":"David Beck"}]},{"metadata":"{\"published\":true,\"details\":{\"EICname\":\"Hockin\",\"place\":[\"China\"],\"finish\":[\"printed\"]}}","title":"19","enclosures":[],"url":{"rel":"self","length":0,"href":"https://warwick.ac.uk/fac/arts/history/ghcc/eac/databases/textiles/catalogue/store/?selectedLetter=num#def-19"},"content":"","script":"","entryId":"094d43a2407dbf630140823a11b03f30","lastUpdated":1376574378000,"anchor":"def-19","parsedContentBody":"","id":"094d43a2407dbf630140823a11b03f30","categories":[],"publicationDate":1376574378000,"authors":[{"name":"David Beck"}]},{"metadata":"{\"published\":true,\"details\":{\"EICname\":\"Pelong\",\"place\":[\"China\"],\"placeprod\":\"Tonqueen, Nanqueen (Nankeen), Canton\",\"finish\":[\"painted\"],\"material\":[\"Silk\"],\"dimensions\":\"11 yd x 1/2 ell, 13 1/2 yd x 3/4 D ell, 22 yd x1/2 ell\",\"market\":\"English\",\"colours\":[\"scarlet\",\"white\"],\"pattern\":[\"plain\",\"flowered\"]},\"notes\":{\"notes\":\"ordered as book, rolled and flat fold.\\r\\nLaarhoven: Silk, produced in Chian and Vietnam. Pelings were silk textiles of a medium range. They were less exclusive than a damask, satin or velvet. The VOC acquired peelings in Tonkin (Vietnam) or Taiwan from the Chinese traders. After the Company was forced out of Taiwan and also left their factory in Tonkin in 1699, they policed them from the Chinese who came to Batavia. .... The VOC employees were sometimes fooled by the Tonkinese, who in finishing the textile added some moisture which increased the weight of the silk, thus hoping to fetch a higher price for the 'better quality'. Florence Montgomery: Also pealing, pelang, pekin, A kind of silk satin made in China, first imported by the Dutch were brought back by 1681 in English East India Company ships. 'The Silks which the Company commonly bring in are the main part of them Taffaties and other plain or striped Silks and Pelongs, such as are not usually mdd in England but imported from France Italy and Holland; where lately when Pelongs were scarce, many were made and imitated at Harlem and from thence imported into England' (Warner p.631). Savary des Bruslons adds that they were 'made in white to colours, plain, figured and in several qualities'. Ackermann suggested white peeling satin to wear under a thin material such as imperial crape or Spanish gauze for dresses (Repository 2, no.4, April 1809: 258), p.318. \",\"contemporary\":\"'London Post with Intelligence Foreign and Domestick', 22 July 1700\\r\\nCargoe of the Sarah Galley arrived from China the 20th July 1700 - Damasks 30, Ditto with Gold Flowers 10, Gelongs white and strip'd 430, Pelongs Nankeen 7, Quilts ditto, with Gold Flowers 8, Sattins ditto 284, Ditto with Gold Flowers 53, Velvets 118, Paintings on Pelongs 115 pieces, Ditto on Gauze 12200 Feet, Pictures on Paper 2413, Fans 65980, Fire Fans 424 pieces, screens 2 Pair, Scriptores 22, Large tables 83, Tea Tables 2848, Lacker'd Chests 266, Lacker'd Wares of divers sorts 6517 pieces, 106 Borax, 797 Cambogam, 45798 Copper, 358 Cloves, 250 Green Ginger, 112070 Pepper, 4353 Quicksliver, 16005 Raw Silk, 1322 Sago, 30063 Singlo Tea, 1163 pound weight of Bohee Tea, China Ware 146748 pieces, Jambee Canes 44394, Gold 129 ounces'\"}}","title":"2","enclosures":[],"url":{"rel":"self","length":0,"href":"https://warwick.ac.uk/fac/arts/history/ghcc/eac/databases/textiles/catalogue/store/?selectedLetter=num#def-2"},"content":"","script":"","entryId":"094d43a24073538f014077e1b0643cb2","lastUpdated":1411659421601,"anchor":"def-2","parsedContentBody":"","id":"094d43a24073538f014077e1b0643cb2","categories":[],"publicationDate":1411659421601,"authors":[{"name":"David Beck"}]},{"metadata":"{\"published\":true,\"details\":{\"EICname\":\"Straw Atlas\",\"place\":[\"China\"],\"dimensions\":\"18 yd x ?,\",\"market\":\"English\",\"colours\":[\"blue with silver\",\"green with gold\",\"green with silver\",\"red with silver\",\"white with gold\",\"yellow with silver\"],\"pattern\":[\"striped\",\"flowered\"]},\"notes\":{\"notes\":\"Laarhoven: silk, cotton, silk and cotton, or silk and wool. Made in China. The word atlas comes from Arabic which could mean satin or soft and smooth. Atlas also refers to satin weave, came in an striped pattern or plain woven, often embroidered with silver or gold threads, Imported into Indonesia and Europe by the VOC. Atlas silk thread is from a wild silk spun by a large moth called Atlacas atlas predominantly found in India. Could be a substantial material from which for example coats were made.\\r\\nWellingto: Atlas, Attlas, Cotonis, Cancantas, Calquiers, Bouilles Chalmay, Charmay: 1) Silk satin made in India, It can be plain, striped, flowered in gold or solely in silk, Kinds of Atlas are Cotonis, Cancantas, Calquiers, Cotonis-Bouilles, Bouilles Charmay or Charmay, Quemkas (Savary, 1, 184).\"}}","title":"20","enclosures":[],"url":{"rel":"self","length":0,"href":"https://warwick.ac.uk/fac/arts/history/ghcc/eac/databases/textiles/catalogue/store/?selectedLetter=num#def-20"},"content":"","script":"","entryId":"094d43a2407dbf630140823d4a593f78","lastUpdated":1412770740759,"anchor":"def-20","parsedContentBody":"","id":"094d43a2407dbf630140823d4a593f78","categories":[],"publicationDate":1412770740759,"authors":[{"name":"David Beck"}]},{"metadata":"{\"published\":true,\"details\":{\"EICname\":\"Lampasse\",\"place\":[\"China\",\"India - Madras/Coromandel\"],\"dimensions\":\"15 yd x ?, 18 yd x ?,\",\"market\":\"English\",\"colours\":[\"various\"]},\"notes\":{\"notes\":\"Wellington: Cloth printed in India (Savary, 2,478)\"}}","title":"22","enclosures":[],"url":{"rel":"self","length":0,"href":"https://warwick.ac.uk/fac/arts/history/ghcc/eac/databases/textiles/catalogue/store/?selectedLetter=num#def-22"},"content":"","script":"","entryId":"094d43a2407dbf6301408244355c4023","lastUpdated":1413196906781,"anchor":"def-22","parsedContentBody":"","id":"094d43a2407dbf6301408244355c4023","categories":[],"publicationDate":1413196906781,"authors":[{"name":"David Beck"}]},{"metadata":"{\"published\":true,\"image\":[{\"url\":\"2012FL4062_jpg_ds.jpg\",\"viewable\":\"http://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O478784/handkerchief-unknown/\",\"imgnotes\":\"V&A Museum. Handkerchief, made in Calcutta, Indian 1867, Museum No.0540 (S) Length 42 cm, width 40 cm. Rectangular cotton (muslin) piece. Embroidery and pulled threadwork featuring white cotton trains and uniformed male figures in profile, birds and palm trees. Transferred from the Indian Museum 1879. \\r\\n\"}],\"details\":{\"EICname\":\"Hankerchief\",\"place\":[\"China\",\"India - Bengal\"],\"placeprod\":\"Ballasore, Dacca,\",\"technique\":\"muslin\",\"finish\":[\"embroidered\"],\"material\":[\"Cotton\",\"Silk\"],\"dimensions\":\"? x 3/4 yd, ? x 7/8 yd, 1 yd x 1 yd,\",\"market\":\"English\",\"colours\":[\"blue\",\"cloth\",\"red\",\"various\"],\"pattern\":[\"plain\",\"patterned\",\"striped\",\"flowered\"]},\"notes\":{\"notes\":\"Chinese Hankerchiefs ordered \\\"20 in a piece\\\"\\r\\nBengali Hankerchiefs ordered \\\"10 in a piece\\\"\\r\\nSome Bengali Hankerchiefs ordered \\\"like a Cossae\\\"\\r\\n\\r\\nS.W. Beck, Drapers' Dictionary, c.1815, p.188: Not met with earlier than the 15th c.\",\"contemporary\":\"'Morning Chronicle and London Advertiser', 30 March 1787 India Muslin warehouse. Messrs Smith and Co at the Three Pigeons and Sceptre, no. 173 Fleet Street. They beg leace to inform ladies that their purchase consists of four fourths, five fifths and six sixths wide Jaconets etc etc... , Ballasore, decca and Book handkerchiefs. \"}}","title":"23","enclosures":[],"url":{"rel":"self","length":0,"href":"https://warwick.ac.uk/fac/arts/history/ghcc/eac/databases/textiles/catalogue/store/?selectedLetter=num#def-23"},"content":"","script":"","entryId":"094d43a2407db20b01408247996242d3","lastUpdated":1416137844050,"anchor":"def-23","parsedContentBody":"","id":"094d43a2407db20b01408247996242d3","categories":[],"publicationDate":1416137844050,"authors":[{"name":"David Beck"}]},{"metadata":"{\"published\":true,\"image\":[{\"url\":\"2014HA9557_jpg_s.jpg\",\"viewable\":\"http://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O476383/textile-unknown/\",\"imgnotes\":\"\\r\\nTextile, pieces of a woven cotton textile, blue, white and red basket weave; blue and white warps and blue and red wefts. Made c.1855 , length 270 cm, width 67 cm. Museum no.5270 (S). Transferred from the Indian Museum 1879. See further onita Trust Indian Textiles Cataloguing Project\"}],\"details\":{\"EICname\":\"Gingham\",\"place\":[\"China\",\"India - Madras/Coromandel\",\"India - Bengal\"],\"placeprod\":\"Pollicat (Pulicat)\",\"finish\":[\"plain\"],\"material\":[\"Cotton\"],\"dimensions\":\"8 yd x 1 yd, 18 yd x ?, 20 yd x 1 3/8 yd,\",\"market\":\"English\",\"colours\":[\"blue\",\"blue and red\",\"bright\",\"brown\",\"changeable\",\"cloth, dark\",\"clouded?\",\"grey\",\"lively\",\"mostly dark colours\",\"red\",\"red grounds\",\"redish/purplish\",\"white\",\"yellow\"],\"pattern\":[\"striped\",\"checked\",\"clouded\"]},\"notes\":{\"notes\":\"Ginghams ordered from China \\\"strip'd, small, genteel\\\" some Bengali Ginghams ordered \\\"without Congee\\\". Laarhoven: All cotton or cotton mixed with tussah silk. The origin of the name gingham has not been clearly established. The qualifier drongam-pernasse, -sestines and -taffachelas indicated that attributes of the other types of cloth were incorporated into the gingham. The information on gingams in archival sources is very large, sufficient for a monograph. Spinning World: 'A kind of cotton or linen cloth, woven of dyed harm, often striped or checks' (OED). It is derived from the Malay Ginggang, meaning 'striped'. It is not certain whether Coromandel ginghams were the same as bengal ginghams of mixed cotton and tussur silk or whether they were entirely made of cotton. The important feature to traders was that they were woven with double-threaded warps and wefts, thus having a distinctive texture. They were sent to the Malay archipelago and after 1640 to Europe. Florence Montgomery: In India probably first made of cotton and Tussur silk. A striped cloth woven with multiple-stranded warps and wefts and noted ffor toughness of texture. p.247. Wellington: 1) Originally cloth of mixed cotton and fusser silk, Later imitated in pure cotton with main distinguishing feature is us all textue of multiple stranded warps and weft, (Irwin, 64). 2) Plain white and dyed, Medium quality, Domesti and general use. Re-export trade. South India ad Bengal. 17th and 18th c. (Chaudhuri, 502). 3) Mixed cotton and silk, striped, Medium quality. Fashionwear and re-export trade. Bengal. 17th-18th c. (Chaudhuri, 504 4) Medium or lightweight plain weave, yarn-dyed cotton fabric, Ginghams vary in quality. Madras ginghams made with fine yarn in fancy weaves (Wingate, 265).\"}}","title":"24","enclosures":[],"url":{"rel":"self","length":0,"href":"https://warwick.ac.uk/fac/arts/history/ghcc/eac/databases/textiles/catalogue/store/?selectedLetter=num#def-24"},"content":"","script":"","entryId":"094d43a2407db20b0140824b9e08433a","lastUpdated":1416138147002,"anchor":"def-24","parsedContentBody":"","id":"094d43a2407db20b0140824b9e08433a","categories":[],"publicationDate":1416138147002,"authors":[{"name":"David Beck"}]},{"metadata":"{\"published\":true,\"image\":[{\"url\":\"2008BT4709_jpg_ds.jpg\",\"viewable\":\"http://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O229787/one-piece-suit-unknown/\",\"imgnotes\":\"Boy's one piece suit of unbleached nankeen, consisting of a bodice with ankle-length trousers attached, made up in Scotland, c.1820-30. Museum no.T.23-1943. Opening at back, the breeches fasten to the bodice with buttons at the back. The bodice is high-waisted, with short puffed sleeves and a low square-cut neck finished with a draw-string. The front of the bodice is embroidered in broderie anglaise, as also is the narrow scalloped collar. The ends of the trousers are also finished with scallops and broderie anglaise embroidery. There is a narrow belt of self material, buttoned openings at the sides of the trousers, and a gusset, open at one side, in the front.\\r\\n\"}],\"details\":{\"EICname\":\"Nankeen cloth\",\"place\":[\"China\"],\"placeprod\":\"Nankeen\",\"material\":[\"Cotton\"],\"dimensions\":\"? x 1 yd, 5 1/2 yd x ?, 6 yd x 3/8 yd, 6 yd x 1 yd, \\\"narrow\\\", \\\"broad\\\",\",\"market\":\"English\"},\"notes\":{\"notes\":\"Laarhoven: Also nankin, nankeen, lankeene. A fine quality cotton of natural yellow colour unique from the Jiengxi province in China and traded frequently during the VOC period out of Nanjing from where it derived its name. The Dutch often referred to it as nankin linen. It was a strong and durable material and came in broad and narrow pieces. Nankin cotton should not be confused with nankin silks. Florence Montgomery: A cotton cloth of plain weave originally sold at Nankin in China and made from a yellow variety of cotton 'of the same yellow tinge which is preserved when spun and woven into cloth' (Edward Baines, p.31n). At least by the mid-18th c, in the Manchester area it was made of ordinary cotton dyed yellow. With the entry of the United States ships into the East India trade after the American Revolution, the importation of nankeens increased to the point that 'their price was almost a standard of exchange' (Earle, Costume, p.166). The term nankeen was applied to a large variety of cotton goods sold in Canton. Spinning World: a cotton cloth manufactured in regions near the city of Nanjing in Yangzi River Delta, particularly popular in late 18th c and early 19th centuries. By c.1780 they were produced in Lancashire. A piece of nakeen measured 16 yards in length and one yard in width. Wellington: 1) Cotton stuff of brownish yellow tinge (Yule-Burnell, 616) 2) Obsolete firm textured durable cotton from China (Wingate, 407).\",\"contemporary\":\"'Courier and Evening Gazette', 27 August 1800\\r\\n ....nankeen pantaloons, without drawers.\\r\\n\\r\\n\"}}","title":"25","enclosures":[],"url":{"rel":"self","length":0,"href":"https://warwick.ac.uk/fac/arts/history/ghcc/eac/databases/textiles/catalogue/store/?selectedLetter=num#def-25"},"content":"","script":"","entryId":"094d43a2407dbf630140824ed596412b","lastUpdated":1416144471521,"anchor":"def-25","parsedContentBody":"","id":"094d43a2407dbf630140824ed596412b","categories":[],"publicationDate":1416144471521,"authors":[{"name":"David Beck"}]},{"metadata":"{\"published\":true,\"details\":{\"EICname\":\"Canton cloth\",\"place\":[\"China\"],\"placeprod\":\"Canton\",\"material\":[\"Cotton\"]}}","title":"26","enclosures":[],"url":{"rel":"self","length":0,"href":"https://warwick.ac.uk/fac/arts/history/ghcc/eac/databases/textiles/catalogue/store/?selectedLetter=num#def-26"},"content":"","script":"","entryId":"094d43a2407db20b0140824fe97a4394","lastUpdated":1376575809000,"anchor":"def-26","parsedContentBody":"","id":"094d43a2407db20b0140824fe97a4394","categories":[],"publicationDate":1376575809000,"authors":[{"name":"David Beck"}]},{"metadata":"{\"published\":true,\"details\":{\"EICname\":\"White cloth\",\"place\":[\"China\"]}}","title":"27","enclosures":[],"url":{"rel":"self","length":0,"href":"https://warwick.ac.uk/fac/arts/history/ghcc/eac/databases/textiles/catalogue/store/?selectedLetter=num#def-27"},"content":"","script":"","entryId":"094d43a2407db20b014082506eed43a5","lastUpdated":1376575844000,"anchor":"def-27","parsedContentBody":"","id":"094d43a2407db20b014082506eed43a5","categories":[],"publicationDate":1376575844000,"authors":[{"name":"David Beck"}]},{"metadata":"{\"published\":true,\"details\":{\"EICname\":\"Longcloth\",\"place\":[\"India - Madras/Coromandel\",\"India - Bombay/Suratt\"],\"placeprod\":\"Madras, Fort St David, Vizagapatam, Worriarpollam, Cariwar, Nagore, Injeram, Anjengo,\",\"material\":[\"Cotton\"],\"dimensions\":\"36 yd x 1 1/16 yd, 36 yd x 1 1/8 yd, 72 cov x 2 1/4 cov,\",\"market\":\"English\",\"colours\":[\"blue, deep\",\"blue, light\",\"brown\",\"white\"],\"pattern\":[\"striped\"]},\"notes\":{\"notes\":\"superfine Longcloth ordered \\\"thick for shirts\\\"\\r\\nstriped Longcloth ordered \\\"of fine stripes as the Pollicat (Pulicat) ginghams\\\"\\r\\nWellington: Longcloath, Longcloth: 1) White or blue cotton cloth from Corpmandel (Savary, 2, 382) 2) White shirting or Lancashire calico. Maybe corruption of Lungi or Loonghes (Yule-Burnell, 518).\"}}","title":"28","enclosures":[],"url":{"rel":"self","length":0,"href":"https://warwick.ac.uk/fac/arts/history/ghcc/eac/databases/textiles/catalogue/store/?selectedLetter=num#def-28"},"content":"","script":"","entryId":"094d43a2407db20b0140874826900ecb","lastUpdated":1413197169422,"anchor":"def-28","parsedContentBody":"","id":"094d43a2407db20b0140874826900ecb","categories":[],"publicationDate":1413197169422,"authors":[{"name":"David Beck"}]},{"metadata":"{\"published\":true,\"details\":{\"EICname\":\"Salampore\",\"names\":\"Sallampore\",\"place\":[\"India - Madras/Coromandel\",\"India - Bombay/Suratt\"],\"placeprod\":\"Madras, Fort St David, Vizagapatam & Ganjam VAB, Nagore & Cariwar, Injeram, Anjengo,\",\"material\":[\"Cotton\"],\"dimensions\":\"12 yd x 1 1/16 yd, 15 yd x 1 1/16 yd, 16 yd x 1 yd, 18 yd x 1 1/16 yd, 32 cov x 2 1/4 cov\",\"market\":\"English\",\"colours\":[\"blue, dark\",\"brown\"],\"pattern\":[\"striped\"]},\"notes\":{\"notes\":\"superfine Salampore ordered \\\"thick for shirts\\\"\\r\\nstriped Salampore ordered \\\"of fine stripes as the Pollicat (Pulicat) ginghams\\\".\\r\\n\\r\\nLaarhoven: Also salempre, salamoeris, selampuri. Coton. The name is thought to come from Telinga sale meaning weaver and Sanskrit 'purr meaning town or place which would explain the large dispersion of weaving places where Salempore was produced. There are numerous other speculations concerning the origin of the name salempore. Salempore came in several qualities from fine to coarse. The cloths had been traded to the archipelago for many centuries. It was mentioned in the Nagara-Kertagama as the material of a shawl that women wore. The Dutch sources mention more than twenty places in India where Salempore were woven, most of these are found on the Coromandel coast. ... The Salempore cloth ... was used for printing imitation Indian chintz in Europe ... Hence the salempore also became known as a chintz cloth, (as described in Hobson-Jobson). However, the salempore traded to the archipelago by the VOC seemed a plain material. Wellington: Salempores, Salempouris, Salampouris, Sallampres: 1) Blue and white cloth from Coromandel, (Savary, 2,1450) 2) Staple cotton-cloth from South Indai, Varied widely in quality and porch, Expoerted to Europe in large quantities (Yule Burnell, 784) 4) Plain white and blue dyed, Medium quality, Clothing, re-xpoert colonial trade, South India 17th-18th c, (Chaudhuri, 503).\"}}","title":"29","enclosures":[],"url":{"rel":"self","length":0,"href":"https://warwick.ac.uk/fac/arts/history/ghcc/eac/databases/textiles/catalogue/store/?selectedLetter=num#def-29"},"content":"","script":"","entryId":"094d43a2407db20b0140874eb1b40f7b","lastUpdated":1412858227746,"anchor":"def-29","parsedContentBody":"","id":"094d43a2407db20b0140874eb1b40f7b","categories":[],"publicationDate":1412858227746,"authors":[{"name":"David Beck"}]},{"metadata":"{\"published\":true,\"image\":[{\"url\":\"TATTETAnegotiationprotokoll1116049.jpg\",\"imgnotes\":\"Swedish East India Company Sales Catalog (1735), containing goods brought home by the ship Ulrica Elenora. Images from copy with textile samples, held in archive of the Danish West Indian Company (Vestindisk-Guineisk Kompagni), in the series: Charles Barringtons med Grevinden af Laurwigen hjemførte arkiv, 1725-1738, Volume 219, Danish National Archive (Rigsarkivet), Copenhagen.\"}],\"details\":{\"EICname\":\"Taffaty\",\"names\":\"pl. Taffaties, Satin Taffaty\",\"place\":[\"China\",\"India - Bombay/Suratt\",\"India - Bengal\"],\"placeprod\":\"Amadavad\",\"technique\":\"taffeta, satin,\",\"finish\":[\"plain\",\"printed\",\"painted\"],\"material\":[\"Silk\",\"Silk-Herba mix\"],\"dimensions\":\"narrow, broad, 13 yd x ?, 15 yd x 7/8 yd, 16 yd x 7/8 yd, 18 yd x ?, 32 yd x 14 nail, 18 yd x ?, ? x 3/4 yd, ? x 1 yd,\",\"market\":\"English\",\"colours\":[\"ash\",\"ash and lemon, changeable\",\"ash and yellow, changeable\",\"ash various colours, loan\",\"ash, dark\",\"ash, dark and ash light, changeable\",\"ash, deep\",\"aurora\",\"black\",\"blue\",\"blue, dark\",\"blue, Mazareen\",\"blue, sky\",\"blue, sky and white, changeable\",\"blue, sky ground\",\"blue, sky, deep and blue, sky, midling, loan\",\"blue, sky, deep and midling\",\"blue, sky, deep and white, changeable\",\"blue, sky, pale\",\"brown\",\"brown and hair, changeable\",\"brown and pink, changeable\",\"brown and sky, changeable\",\"brown and white, changeable\",\"brown and yellow, changeable\",\"brown cloth & white, changeable\",\"brown cloth and light hair, changeable\",\"brown cloth and pale pink, changeable\",\"brown cloth and sky, changeable\",\"brown cloth and yellow, changeable\",\"brown, changeable\",\"brown, dark\",\"brown, light\",\"brown, very light\",\"brown, very very light\",\"buff\",\"changeable\",\"cherry\",\"cherry and pale pink, changeable\",\"cherry and white, changeable\",\"cherry and yellow, changeable\",\"cherry ground\",\"cherry in grain\",\"cherry&pink&white, changeable\",\"cherry, loan\",\"cloth\",\"cloth and sky, changeable\",\"cloth various colours, loan\",\"crimson\",\"crimson in grain\",\"feuillemorte\",\"gay, various\",\"gosling\",\"green\",\"green (not dark)\",\"green and gosling\",\"green and white, changeable\",\"green, dark\",\"green, sea\",\"jonquil\",\"jonquils, full\",\"jonquils, very full\",\"lead\",\"lemon\",\"light\",\"lively\",\"orange\",\"pearl\",\"pink\",\"pink and yellow, changeable\",\"pink in grain\",\"pink, loan\",\"pink, pale in grain\",\"purple in grain\",\"red\",\"red and blue, sky\",\"red stripes\",\"red with yellow selvages\",\"scarlet\",\"scarlet in grain\",\"scarlett and blue, sky, changeable\",\"scarlett and pink, changeable\",\"scarlett and white, changeable\",\"scarlett and yellow, changeable\",\"scarlett in grain,loan\",\"straw\",\"unspecified,loan\",\"various\",\"various, changeable\",\"white\",\"white ground\",\"white, curious\",\"yellow\",\"yellow and gold, changeable\",\"Yellow and white, changeable\",\"yellow ground\",\"yellow, deep\"],\"pattern\":[\"plain\",\"striped\",\"flowered\",\"striped and flowered\",\"checked\",\"sprigged\"]},\"notes\":{\"notes\":\"Florence Montgomery: In the 17th c trade with Bengal, the term covered a wide variety of silk and silk/cotton goods, many of them striped or checked, among which were alacha, seersuckers, sousaes, and charconnaes (Irwin & Schwartz),,p.47). According to Savary des Bruslon, 'Taffetas are made in all colours. Some are glossy, some changeable, come striped with silk, gold or silver, others are flamed [warp printed) checked, flowered or with patterns called point fe Chine and de Hongire. Many others have names, dictated by fashion or by the fancy of the manufacturers, so bizarre that it would be both useless and difficult to give them all, aside from the fact that their names rarely last through the year in which they were created ... Most taffetas are used for women's summer dresses, form linings, scarves, headdresses, canopies for beds, or easy chairs, window curtains, bedspreads and other furnishings'. \"}}","title":"3","enclosures":[],"url":{"rel":"self","length":0,"href":"https://warwick.ac.uk/fac/arts/history/ghcc/eac/databases/textiles/catalogue/store/?selectedLetter=num#def-3"},"content":"","script":"","entryId":"094d43a24073561e014078066f224031","lastUpdated":1419243395666,"anchor":"def-3","parsedContentBody":"","id":"094d43a24073561e014078066f224031","categories":[],"publicationDate":1419243395666,"authors":[{"name":"David Beck"}]},{"metadata":"{\"published\":true,\"details\":{\"EICname\":\"Succatum\",\"place\":[\"India - Madras/Coromandel\"],\"dimensions\":\"20 yd x ?,\",\"market\":\"English\"}}","title":"30","enclosures":[],"url":{"rel":"self","length":0,"href":"https://warwick.ac.uk/fac/arts/history/ghcc/eac/databases/textiles/catalogue/store/?selectedLetter=num#def-30"},"content":"","script":"","entryId":"094d43a2407db20b01408757638e1029","lastUpdated":1376660185000,"anchor":"def-30","parsedContentBody":"","id":"094d43a2407db20b01408757638e1029","categories":[],"publicationDate":1376660185000,"authors":[{"name":"David Beck"}]},{"metadata":"{\"published\":true,\"details\":{\"EICname\":\"Sarrasse\",\"place\":[\"India - Madras/Coromandel\"]},\"notes\":{\"notes\":\"Laarhoven: Sarass is probably from the Hindi saris meaning superior or good quality. A vendor today may still recommend the textile being 'saris', Sarassa was traded for camphor and gold before they were traded for spices by the Europeans... All sarassas were definitely chintz ... sizes were rarely constant for all the types of textiles. It is not clear if the Company was an agent in changing sizes or if it was in response to market pressures but sizes for clothing seemed to have changed,. Spinning World: Indian printed and patines textiles with exotic flowers, birds, numbers and figures, and geometric patterns (and South East Asian, Japanese and European ones in the same style as well). Sarassa is conventionally said to have derived from Surat.\\r\\nWellington: Sarassa, Sarasses: 1) May be superior silk and cotton mixture (Irwin, 70) 2) variety of raw cotton from India (Wingate, 525).\"}}","title":"31","enclosures":[],"url":{"rel":"self","length":0,"href":"https://warwick.ac.uk/fac/arts/history/ghcc/eac/databases/textiles/catalogue/store/?selectedLetter=num#def-31"},"content":"","script":"","entryId":"094d43a2407dbf630140875831240e1f","lastUpdated":1413198471308,"anchor":"def-31","parsedContentBody":"","id":"094d43a2407dbf630140875831240e1f","categories":[],"publicationDate":1413198471308,"authors":[{"name":"David Beck"}]},{"metadata":"{\"published\":true,\"details\":{\"EICname\":\"Sicashee\",\"place\":[\"India - Madras/Coromandel\"],\"dimensions\":\"ordered by the bale\",\"market\":\"English\"}}","title":"32","enclosures":[],"url":{"rel":"self","length":0,"href":"https://warwick.ac.uk/fac/arts/history/ghcc/eac/databases/textiles/catalogue/store/?selectedLetter=num#def-32"},"content":"","script":"","entryId":"094d43a2407db20b01408759fc481054","lastUpdated":1376660356000,"anchor":"def-32","parsedContentBody":"","id":"094d43a2407db20b01408759fc481054","categories":[],"publicationDate":1376660356000,"authors":[{"name":"David Beck"}]},{"metadata":"{\"published\":true,\"details\":{\"EICname\":\"Percalla\",\"place\":[\"India - Madras/Coromandel\"],\"technique\":\"percale\",\"finish\":[\"plain\"],\"material\":[\"Cotton\"],\"market\":\"English\"},\"notes\":{\"notes\":\"Laarhoven: Also parcalle, parkallen, pecole. Made in Petapuli (around 1608), Masulipatnam, Tegeapatham, Paleacat, a short time in Surat around 1700, Bengal from 1700 onwards. From Persian parkinah meaning 'a piece'. Most parcalle was manufactured in Golconda. Could be painted. Parcalle was also used to make trousers, shirts and jabots. When buying a Parcalle it could have the appearance of either being folded up like a book ('accordion folded) or like a salempore, but smaller, because parcalle was only half its length. The 'book' parcalle was stronger and shorter, 200 pieces packed in one bale. In Indonesia the highest demand was for white parcalle, the next highest was for red. Washing made parcalle even whiter than it was originally. The blue parcalle came on the market only early in the 18th c. The strength of the woven cloth equalled at least that of bafta, guinees and geras, perhaps due to the twisted thread that was used. After the cloth was bleached, it was beaten and lightly coated with a rubbery paste which made the cloth feel silky. At the end of the cloth were two gold threads, slightly more than one centimetre apart, and in the middle of the cloth there was also a gold thread. The demand for parcallle was higher than the supply. The parcalle was very popular in Europe, There was competition for this. Florence Montgomery: Also perkale. A fine cotton cloth originally from india where it was sold white or dyed blue. Measuring justbover a yard, 'percales' were used in India as one of the ground cloths for painted chintz (Irwin & Scwartz). Percale was manufactured in England in 1670 and in France in 1780 (Caulfeild and Saward). Ackermann comments on the material in 1816:'Perkale, as they call cambric muslin, is now almost the nay thing worn in the morning costume: you must not, however, fancy that this proceeds from a wish to encourage English manufacture, but partly from a love of novelty, and partly because it is less expensive than cambric, and equally fashionable (Repository 2d ser., 1 no.5 May 1816, 306. Printed percales were used for shirting. Wellington: Percale, Percallas, Percallaees, Paricals, Parcalles: 1) Percalles-Mauris. White cotton fabric fine to coarse from Pondicherry (Savary,2,1044). 2) High grade plain white cloth, fine, regular, and durable used to make chintz, usually bought red (Irwin, 69). 3) Plain white, base for making chintz. parse t fine quality. Domestic and general use, re-export. South India 17th c. (Chaudhuri, 503). 4) Plain weave, lightweight, piece dyes or printed cotton fabric. Used for dresses (Wingate, 446).\"}}","title":"33","enclosures":[],"url":{"rel":"self","length":0,"href":"https://warwick.ac.uk/fac/arts/history/ghcc/eac/databases/textiles/catalogue/store/?selectedLetter=num#def-33"},"content":"","script":"","entryId":"094d43a2407dbf630140875c2c110e81","lastUpdated":1413198683084,"anchor":"def-33","parsedContentBody":"","id":"094d43a2407dbf630140875c2c110e81","categories":[],"publicationDate":1413198683084,"authors":[{"name":"David Beck"}]},{"metadata":"{\"published\":true,\"details\":{\"EICname\":\"Sail cloth\",\"place\":[\"India - Madras/Coromandel\"],\"material\":[\"Cotton\"],\"dimensions\":\"20 yd x 1 yd,\",\"market\":\"English\",\"colours\":[\"brown\"]},\"notes\":{\"notes\":\"Laarhoven: Coarse white cotton that came in bros and narrow varieties for making sails ands items that need strong cloth. It had a similar use as canvas, Much of the sailcloth was sold on Java. Sailcloth was imported from the Netherlands for the Company's own use. \"}}","title":"34","enclosures":[],"url":{"rel":"self","length":0,"href":"https://warwick.ac.uk/fac/arts/history/ghcc/eac/databases/textiles/catalogue/store/?selectedLetter=num#def-34"},"content":"","script":"","entryId":"094d43a2407db20b0140875fdf4310e1","lastUpdated":1411657511324,"anchor":"def-34","parsedContentBody":"","id":"094d43a2407db20b0140875fdf4310e1","categories":[],"publicationDate":1411657511324,"authors":[{"name":"David Beck"}]},{"metadata":"{\"published\":true,\"details\":{\"EICname\":\"Izzaree\",\"place\":[\"India - Madras/Coromandel\"]}}","title":"35","enclosures":[],"url":{"rel":"self","length":0,"href":"https://warwick.ac.uk/fac/arts/history/ghcc/eac/databases/textiles/catalogue/store/?selectedLetter=num#def-35"},"content":"","script":"","entryId":"094d43a2407db20b0140876788fc1184","lastUpdated":1376661244000,"anchor":"def-35","parsedContentBody":"","id":"094d43a2407db20b0140876788fc1184","categories":[],"publicationDate":1376661244000,"authors":[{"name":"David Beck"}]},{"metadata":"{\"published\":true,\"image\":[{\"url\":\"DIMITYnegotiationprotokoll 1116 019.JPG\",\"imgnotes\":\"Swedish East India Company Sales Catalog (1735), containing goods brought home by the ship Ulrica Elenora. Images from copy with textile samples, held in archive of the Danish West Indian Company (Vestindisk-Guineisk Kompagni), in the series: Charles Barringtons med Grevinden af Laurwigen hjemførte arkiv, 1725-1738, Volume 219, Danish National Archive (Rigsarkivet), Copenhagen. \"}],\"details\":{\"EICname\":\"Dimity, Dimittee\",\"names\":\"pl. Dimities\",\"place\":[\"India - Madras/Coromandel\",\"India - Bengal\"],\"placeprod\":\"Fort St David, Ballasore, Dacca\",\"finish\":[\"embroidered\"],\"material\":[\"Cotton\"],\"dimensions\":\"12 yd x 1 yd,\",\"market\":\"English\",\"pattern\":[\"flowered\",\"sprigged\"]},\"notes\":{\"notes\":\"some Ballasore Dimitees ordered as \\\"invoiced Fustians\\\"\"}}","title":"36","enclosures":[],"url":{"rel":"self","length":0,"href":"https://warwick.ac.uk/fac/arts/history/ghcc/eac/databases/textiles/catalogue/store/?selectedLetter=num#def-36"},"content":"","script":"","entryId":"094d43a2407db20b01408768be2c11a1","lastUpdated":1416148206357,"anchor":"def-36","parsedContentBody":"","id":"094d43a2407db20b01408768be2c11a1","categories":[],"publicationDate":1416148206357,"authors":[{"name":"David Beck"}]},{"metadata":"{\"published\":true,\"image\":[{\"url\":\"2006AT5563_jpg_ds.jpg\",\"viewable\":\"http://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O18918/waistcloth-unknown/\",\"imgnotes\":\"Printed cotton with diaper pattern, made in India, 17th-18th c. Height 541.5 cm, width 213 cm, width 30 cm. Museum no. IS.101-1948. Waistcloth (patka) of white cotton with a printed narrow border and wide printed area at the ends. The cloth has panels at each end diapered with closely set rows of small pointed leaves in green-blue outlined in black. The panels are separated from the main field, which is plain, by four narrow bands. These bands and the outer borders are filled with undulating floral stems in the same colours.\"},{\"url\":\"2006AN7153_jpg_ds.jpg\",\"viewable\":\"http://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O15493/sash-unknown/\",\"imgnotes\":\"Sash, made in Dhaka, Bangladesh, c.1800, embroidered mulin silk. Length 194 cm,. width 58.5 cm. Museum no.IM.33-1925This fine sash (patka) would have been worn by a man around the waist of a tailored robe, probably of the type called a jama. It is woven of fine cotton muslin made in Bengal, then in eastern India but now in Bangladesh, which was traditionally a centre for weaving such fabrics. It is embroidered in a neat floral design with coloured silks in simple running stitch. This embroidered design, which conforms to the Mughal style of the 18th century, was probably meant to imitate a more costly woven pattern.\"}],\"details\":{\"EICname\":\"Diaper\",\"place\":[\"India - Madras/Coromandel\",\"India - Bengal\"],\"placeprod\":\"Dacca\",\"material\":[\"Cotton\"],\"market\":\"English\",\"pattern\":[\"figured\"]}}","title":"37","enclosures":[],"url":{"rel":"self","length":0,"href":"https://warwick.ac.uk/fac/arts/history/ghcc/eac/databases/textiles/catalogue/store/?selectedLetter=num#def-37"},"content":"","script":"","entryId":"094d43a2407db20b01408769936411b3","lastUpdated":1416142024108,"anchor":"def-37","parsedContentBody":"","id":"094d43a2407db20b01408769936411b3","categories":[],"publicationDate":1416142024108,"authors":[{"name":"David Beck"}]},{"metadata":"{\"published\":true,\"details\":{\"EICname\":\"Betellee\",\"names\":\"Bettellee, Betellee Oringall, Betelle Pollicat (Pulicat), Betellee Madrapauk,\",\"place\":[\"India - Madras/Coromandel\"],\"placeprod\":\"Madras, Fort St David, Oringall (Warangal?), Pollicat (Pulicat), Madrapauk, Vizagapatam,\",\"material\":[\"Cotton\"],\"dimensions\":\"? x 1 1/8 yd, ? x 1 3/4 cov, ? x 2 cov, ? x 3 cov, ? x 4 cov, 20 yds x ?, 25 yds x ?, 24 cov x ?,32 cov x 2 cov, 32 cov x 3 cov, 40 cov x ?, 52 cov x ?\",\"market\":\"English\",\"pattern\":[\"striped\"]},\"notes\":{\"notes\":\"fine Betellees Pollicat (Pulicat) ordered \\\"thick (Cambrick)\\\" and \\\"thin (Cambrick)\\\" .\\r\\n\\r\\nFlorence Montgomery: Also behtilles, betteelas. Muslins or white cotton cloths woven in southern India. 'Betille is somewhat coarse; betille organdie has a round grain, and is very fine, tarlatan betille is very clear (Postlethwayt). 'They were sometimes dyed red, and sometimes striped or flowered with embroidery, much in demand in Europe as Neckcloths. The fine grades were sometimes reinforced with thin wire thread' (Irwin & Schwartz). In 1815 Ackerman published swatches of 'new Japanese betilla muslins' finely woven white cotton with tiny cores-barred patterns, ornamented at the intersections with dots of lilac and bright pink' -Repository 13, no.77 May 1815: 298. Mortimer's later 19th c. description is of 'a thick sort of muslin, the finest resembling cambric, and the coarser begin properly a kind of calico' Harmuth described East Indian betilles as 'loosely woven cotton cloth, with white stripes or white window plaids'. p.168\\r\\nWellington: 1) Muslin or white cotton cloth from Pondicherry, Three kinds: coarse, very fine, bright. Red ones come from Bengal (Savary,1,324). 2) Deccan name for muslin. Sometimes dyed red or flowered with embroidery, much in demand in Europe as neckcloths (Irwin, 59). 3) Plain white and dyed, base cloth for fine embroidery. Medium to superior quality. Fashionwear. South India 17-18th c. (Chaudhuri, 502). 4) Plain, checked or figured fabric similar to an open texture Swiss muslin (Wingate, 77).\"}}","title":"38","enclosures":[],"url":{"rel":"self","length":0,"href":"https://warwick.ac.uk/fac/arts/history/ghcc/eac/databases/textiles/catalogue/store/?selectedLetter=num#def-38"},"content":"","script":"","entryId":"094d43a2407dbf6301408776b24310e8","lastUpdated":1413195638882,"anchor":"def-38","parsedContentBody":"","id":"094d43a2407dbf6301408776b24310e8","categories":[],"publicationDate":1413195638882,"authors":[{"name":"David Beck"}]},{"metadata":"{\"published\":true,\"details\":{\"EICname\":\"Oringall (Warangal?)\",\"place\":[\"India - Madras/Coromandel\"],\"placeprod\":\"Oringall (Warangal?)\",\"material\":[\"Cotton\"],\"dimensions\":\"12 yd x ?,\",\"market\":\"English\",\"pattern\":[\"striped\"]},\"notes\":{\"notes\":\"DTG&C: A cotton textile, it probably took its name from the once famous city of Warrangal in Hyderabad, According to Milburn it was imported from madra and the surrounding coast of India and it was inlaced among Indian piece goods, Orngalls were defined as muslins in 1700 (Acts). If and when they were sold in the shops, this was probably under some generic term like muslin, since 'origngall' has not been noted in the Dictionary Archive. \"}}","title":"39","enclosures":[],"url":{"rel":"self","length":0,"href":"https://warwick.ac.uk/fac/arts/history/ghcc/eac/databases/textiles/catalogue/store/?selectedLetter=num#def-39"},"content":"","script":"","entryId":"094d43a2407db20b01408779b7c01316","lastUpdated":1411657011499,"anchor":"def-39","parsedContentBody":"","id":"094d43a2407db20b01408779b7c01316","categories":[],"publicationDate":1411657011499,"authors":[{"name":"David Beck"}]},{"metadata":"{\"published\":true,\"image\":[{\"url\":\"2006AF0320_jpg_ds.jpg\",\"viewable\":\"http://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O109101/bedcover-unknown/\",\"imgnotes\":\"Chinese ivory satin silk bedcover with embroidered decoration. China, made c.1760-1770, length 326 cm, width 274 cm. Museum no.FE.12-2004 (In Storage). cf Jackson & Jaffer, Encounters, 2004, no.20.1. Chinese silks were among the most sought-after textiles in 18th-century Europe. The decoration of this embroidered bedcover reflects an artistic fusion. While the central lotus medallion and inner border are Chinese, the palms and flowering fruit trees derive from Indian chintzes. This marriage of motifs shows how Chinese textile artists freely combined styles from different parts of Asia when making objects for the West.\"},{\"url\":\"2006BA1682_jpg_ds.jpg\",\"viewable\":\"http://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O107186/bedcover-unknown/\",\"imgnotes\":\"Chinese satin weave silk embroidered with coloured silks, made in China, 1720-90. Width 274 cm, length 256.5 cm. Museum no. T.93-1949. Bedcover or bedspread. White satin silk embroidered with twisted silks in satin stitch. The central motif features two 'lion-dogs' chasing a ball, surrounding by flowers, birds and fruit. There is a European, white 'bobble' eddging all around. This cover is for the European market. See further Wilson, Verity. Chinese textiles. London: V&A publications, 2005, plate 32.\\r\\n\"}],\"details\":{\"EICname\":\"Sattin\",\"place\":[\"China\"],\"technique\":\"satin\",\"material\":[\"Silk\"],\"dimensions\":\"15 yd X ?, 15 yd X 3/4 yd, 18 yd x ?\",\"colours\":[\"ash\",\"ash various colours, loan\",\"ash, dark\",\"black\",\"black and white\",\"blue and white\",\"blue, Mazareen\",\"blue, sky to pattern\",\"blue, sky, deep and blue, sky, midling, loan\",\"blue, sky, midling\",\"blue, sky, pale\",\"brown\",\"cherry\",\"cherry ground\",\"cherry to pattern\",\"cloth\",\"cloth to pattern\",\"crimson\",\"darks & white\",\"green\",\"green & white\",\"green and gosling\",\"green to pattern\",\"green, dark\",\"lemon\",\"pink\",\"red&white\",\"scarlet\",\"straw\",\"various\",\"white\",\"white ground, cherry to pattern\",\"yellow\",\"yellow and white\",\"yellow ground some two sorts\",\"yellow, deep\"],\"pattern\":[\"plain\",\"striped\"]},\"notes\":{\"notes\":\"Laarhoven: All silk, silk with linen, and cotton combinations. Produced in China, Netherlands, Brugge, Dornik and many other places in Europe. The earliest known silk satins are known from China. Satins were closely woven cloths with overshot warp and glossy appearance . Large floral white satins were apart from China also produced in Patna, in the early part of the 17th c, where they cost about f7.50 a piece. Compared with the price of a Chinese satin in 1620, it appears that the Bengal silk was an imitation satin, possibly a satin warp and cotton weft and perhaps a much shorter textile? There was a high demand for the exclusive heavy Chinese silk satins, armosins and velvet in Asia and Europe. The Company used Chinese silks for gifts to royalty and in ceremonies. Wellington: 1) Silk cloth, lustrous, plain, brocaded, flowered, striped. From China and India (Savary,2,1471). 2) Silk cloth (Weigert, 165), 3) Smooth, lustrous silk fabric with thick, close texture (Wingate, 625).\"}}","title":"4","enclosures":[],"url":{"rel":"self","length":0,"href":"https://warwick.ac.uk/fac/arts/history/ghcc/eac/databases/textiles/catalogue/store/?selectedLetter=num#def-4"},"content":"","script":"","entryId":"094d43a24073538f0140781288c24124","lastUpdated":1416138892602,"anchor":"def-4","parsedContentBody":"","id":"094d43a24073538f0140781288c24124","categories":[],"publicationDate":1416138892602,"authors":[{"name":"David Beck"}]},{"metadata":"{\"published\":true,\"details\":{\"EICname\":\"Mooree\",\"names\":\"Moree\",\"place\":[\"India - Madras/Coromandel\"],\"material\":[\"Cotton\"],\"dimensions\":\"10 yd x 1 yd 8\\\", 10 yd x 1 1/4 yd, 12 yd x 1 yd, 13 yd x 1 yd, 14 yd x ?,\",\"market\":\"English\",\"colours\":[\"white\",\"white ground\"],\"pattern\":[\"sprigged\"]},\"notes\":{\"notes\":\"Moorees, some \\\"superfine\\\", ordered \\\"for shirts\\\" and \\\"for shirts, very thick\\\". \\r\\nFlorence Montgomery: Akso caled morea. 'One of the categories of staple cotton-cloth woven on the Coromandel coast, usually od superior quality and much in demand in Euripe as a substitute for linen cloth. It was also used for chintz-making' (Irwin & Schwartz). 'Raw Morea' silk is listed among imports in the 1660 Book of rates (Dow, Every Day Life, p.253). As imitated in the Manchester area, it was a muslin much used in the African export trade, Silk warps were introduced into more as for dress goods (Aikin, p.160). Striped watches are found in issues of the Journal für Farbik for February 1792 (Fg.D-73), July 1792 and October 1795., where they are said to be of Swiss or Lyons manufacture. Spinning World: The traditional centre of manufacture was Masulipatam but later it was also woven in the Madras area. The usual dimensions were about 9 yards by 1 yard 8 inches. Wellington: Morees, Moorees: 1) Cotton cloth of superioir quality, used in chintz making (Irwin, 68). 2) plain wet. Base cloth for chintz, Medium fine (Chaudhuri,502).\"}}","title":"40","enclosures":[],"url":{"rel":"self","length":0,"href":"https://warwick.ac.uk/fac/arts/history/ghcc/eac/databases/textiles/catalogue/store/?selectedLetter=num#def-40"},"content":"","script":"","entryId":"094d43a2407dbf63014087a1a7e41496","lastUpdated":1412857072914,"anchor":"def-40","parsedContentBody":"","id":"094d43a2407dbf63014087a1a7e41496","categories":[],"publicationDate":1412857072914,"authors":[{"name":"David Beck"}]},{"metadata":"{\"published\":true,\"details\":{\"EICname\":\"Neckcloth\",\"place\":[\"India - Madras/Coromandel\",\"India - Bengal\"],\"material\":[\"Cotton\"],\"dimensions\":\"ordered 10/12/16 in a string, 1 1/2 yd x 1/2 Ell, 1 3/4 yd x 3/4 yd,\",\"market\":\"English\",\"pattern\":[\"striped\",\"flowered\"]}}","title":"41","enclosures":[],"url":{"rel":"self","length":0,"href":"https://warwick.ac.uk/fac/arts/history/ghcc/eac/databases/textiles/catalogue/store/?selectedLetter=num#def-41"},"content":"","script":"","entryId":"094d43a2407dbf63014087a4268614dd","lastUpdated":1377025170000,"anchor":"def-41","parsedContentBody":"","id":"094d43a2407dbf63014087a4268614dd","categories":[],"publicationDate":1377025170000,"authors":[{"name":"David Beck"}]},{"metadata":"{\"published\":true,\"details\":{\"EICname\":\"Sacerguntee\",\"place\":[\"India - Madras/Coromandel\"],\"material\":[\"Cotton\"],\"market\":\"English\"},\"notes\":{\"notes\":\"Wellington: Sacerguntes, Sauerguntes, Saurunchera, Sauergentes, Sacerguntes: 1) Cotton cloth, warp and weft tie dyed before weaving, from south India (Irwin, 70).\"}}","title":"42","enclosures":[],"url":{"rel":"self","length":0,"href":"https://warwick.ac.uk/fac/arts/history/ghcc/eac/databases/textiles/catalogue/store/?selectedLetter=num#def-42"},"content":"","script":"","entryId":"094d43a2407dbf63014087a50b0f14f7","lastUpdated":1412858042322,"anchor":"def-42","parsedContentBody":"","id":"094d43a2407dbf63014087a50b0f14f7","categories":[],"publicationDate":1412858042322,"authors":[{"name":"David Beck"}]},{"metadata":"{\"published\":true,\"details\":{\"EICname\":\"Saderunchare\",\"place\":[\"India - Madras/Coromandel\"],\"material\":[\"Cotton\"],\"market\":\"English\"}}","title":"43","enclosures":[],"url":{"rel":"self","length":0,"href":"https://warwick.ac.uk/fac/arts/history/ghcc/eac/databases/textiles/catalogue/store/?selectedLetter=num#def-43"},"content":"","script":"","entryId":"094d43a2407dbf63014087a5f112150c","lastUpdated":1376665334000,"anchor":"def-43","parsedContentBody":"","id":"094d43a2407dbf63014087a5f112150c","categories":[],"publicationDate":1376665334000,"authors":[{"name":"David Beck"}]},{"metadata":"{\"published\":true,\"details\":{\"EICname\":\"Sastracundy\",\"place\":[\"India - Madras/Coromandel\"],\"material\":[\"Cotton\"],\"market\":\"English\",\"colours\":[\"red, bright\"]}}","title":"44","enclosures":[],"url":{"rel":"self","length":0,"href":"https://warwick.ac.uk/fac/arts/history/ghcc/eac/databases/textiles/catalogue/store/?selectedLetter=num#def-44"},"content":"","script":"","entryId":"094d43a2407dbf63014087a71b971524","lastUpdated":1376665410000,"anchor":"def-44","parsedContentBody":"","id":"094d43a2407dbf63014087a71b971524","categories":[],"publicationDate":1376665410000,"authors":[{"name":"David Beck"}]},{"metadata":"{\"published\":true,\"details\":{\"EICname\":\"Allejar\",\"place\":[\"India - Madras/Coromandel\"],\"material\":[\"Cotton\"],\"market\":\"English\",\"colours\":[\"red, bright\"]},\"notes\":{\"notes\":\"Laarhoven: Alegia, Alacah, Allejaue, Alatches, Elaatjes, fine legia silk, a combination of silk and cotton or silk and another fibre all cotton. Produced in Hughli, Pipely, Malda, Cambay, Baroda, Maulipatm, Papalkolu, Drakshavaram. Originally know as alchah or alachac, a striped fabric from Legia, in the persian district of Leigan. There were also checkered alegia. In 1667 VOC records show an alegia-betilles and alegia-gantsael coming from the Coromandel Coast. Colours - red and white, blue and white, green and white, with or without silver and gold stripes. By 1683 a request from London asked that the flowers and stripes be brisk and lively, running in the length not in the width, and there be no more blood-red stripes unless very few. 1622 used for tablecloths and serviettes, 1660s vests, summer trousers, shirts; after 1670 handkerchiefs; 1695 gowns, once piece contained just the quantity for a woman's mantua, 1712, petticoats, 1885 pyjamas. Technique: in 1683 it was mentioned as a variety of gingham from Masulipatam where a gingham-alegia was woven of a single thread. At the end of the 17th c. Surat was famous for its costly silk textiles, Alegia belonged to the expensive category and were important to Surat local traders in their commerce with Persia. \\r\\nWelington: Allegeas, Alleggai, Allejaes, Allejars, Alagai, Elastches, Layches: 1) Fabric from India, Tow sorts: some of cotton and others of herbs woven with hemp or linen (Savary, 1, 67). 2) Originally a striped cloth of mixed cotton-and-silk, commonly red and white or blue and white sometimes flowered and embellised with gold and silver thread. Some entirely made of cotton, but striped, Gujuarat, Bengal, Coromandel (Irwin, 7), 3) Striped and checked, red, white blue and white. Medium quality. Domestic and general use, re-expoert trade 17th century, South Indian (Chaudhuri, 502). 4) East indian cotton muslin, made in plain weave; also mixed with silk and other fibres (Wingate, 13)).\",\"contemporary\":\"See above from Laarhoven.\"}}","title":"45","enclosures":[],"url":{"rel":"self","length":0,"href":"https://warwick.ac.uk/fac/arts/history/ghcc/eac/databases/textiles/catalogue/store/?selectedLetter=num#def-45"},"content":"","script":"","entryId":"094d43a2407db20b014087a812e31736","lastUpdated":1412771360090,"anchor":"def-45","parsedContentBody":"","id":"094d43a2407db20b014087a812e31736","categories":[],"publicationDate":1412771360090,"authors":[{"name":"David Beck"}]},{"metadata":"{\"published\":true,\"details\":{\"EICname\":\"Callowaypore\",\"place\":[\"India - Madras/Coromandel\"],\"material\":[\"Cotton\"],\"market\":\"English\",\"colours\":[\"red, bright\"]}}","title":"46","enclosures":[],"url":{"rel":"self","length":0,"href":"https://warwick.ac.uk/fac/arts/history/ghcc/eac/databases/textiles/catalogue/store/?selectedLetter=num#def-46"},"content":"","script":"","entryId":"094d43a2407dbf63014087b07161160b","lastUpdated":1376666022000,"anchor":"def-46","parsedContentBody":"","id":"094d43a2407dbf63014087b07161160b","categories":[],"publicationDate":1376666022000,"authors":[{"name":"David Beck"}]},{"metadata":"{\"published\":true,\"details\":{\"EICname\":\"Goaconcherula\",\"place\":[\"India - Madras/Coromandel\"],\"material\":[\"Cotton\"],\"market\":\"English\"}}","title":"47","enclosures":[],"url":{"rel":"self","length":0,"href":"https://warwick.ac.uk/fac/arts/history/ghcc/eac/databases/textiles/catalogue/store/?selectedLetter=num#def-47"},"content":"","script":"","entryId":"094d43a2407db20b014087b14a6517ea","lastUpdated":1376666077000,"anchor":"def-47","parsedContentBody":"","id":"094d43a2407db20b014087b14a6517ea","categories":[],"publicationDate":1376666077000,"authors":[{"name":"David Beck"}]},{"metadata":"{\"published\":true,\"image\":[{\"url\":\"ChintzST8192_ab.jpg\",\"viewable\":\"http://www.vads.ac.uk/large.php?uid=31292&sos=0\",\"imgnotes\":\"Mid 18th c. dutch (Indian painted chintz) floral with stylised inner patterning, 2 toes of madder on cream\\r\\nThe Textiles Collection. University for the Creative Arts at Farnham\\r\\nAccession No.8192\"},{\"url\":\"Chintz ST8061_1.jpg\",\"imgnotes\":\"Indian Chintz made for European market, cut off top of dress lined and probably altered with East India Company stamp. \\r\\nV&A suggests c.1780. Hand painted mordants. Hand painted wax with a fine reed pen. Hand spun. Weave: plain weave. Process: Iron black. 30 x 94 cms. The Textiles Collection. University for the Creative Arts at Farnham Accession No.8061\"}],\"details\":{\"EICname\":\"Chints\",\"place\":[\"India - Madras/Coromandel\",\"India - Bombay/Suratt\",\"India - Bengal\"],\"placeprod\":\"Brampore, Madras, Metchlepatam, Pattana (Patna), Cassimbuzar, Calcutta, Nunsaree, Serunge, Amadavad, Suratt, Caddy,\",\"technique\":\"chintz\",\"finish\":[\"printed and glazed\",\"glazed and painted\",\"printed and glazed and painted\"],\"material\":[\"Cotton\"],\"dimensions\":\"broad, narrow, 26 cov x ?, 6 yd x ?, 7 yd x ?, 8 1/2 yd x ?, 9 yd x 1 yd, 9 yd x 1 3/16 yd, 12 yd x 3/4 yd, 12 yd x 1 yd, 13 yd x 1 yd, 15 yd x ?, 18 yd x 1 yd, 24-28 cov x 2 cov, ? x 7/8 yd, ? x 1 1/8 yd,\",\"market\":\"English\",\"colours\":[\"blue\",\"blue ground\",\"brisk and lively\",\"brown grounds\",\"green\",\"green grounds\",\"no black\",\"no black ground\",\"purple\",\"purple ground\",\"red\",\"red & white grounds\",\"red grounds\",\"red or blue ground\",\"speckled grounds\",\"various\",\"white\",\"white ground\",\"white ground and purple flower\",\"white ground and several colour'd flower\",\"white ground, with purple and green\",\"white grounds, 3 colours, no yellow\",\"white grounds, 3 colours, no yellow, no green\",\"white grounds, 4 colours\",\"white grounds, 4 colours, purple, red\",\"yellow\",\"yellow ground\",\"yellow/junquill grounds, 4 colours\"],\"pattern\":[\"patterned\",\"striped\",\"flowered\",\"sprigged\"]},\"notes\":{\"notes\":\"Some Madras Chints ordered \\\"on a Moree\\\", \\\"on a fine Moree\\\", or \\\"on very finest Sallampore\\\"\\r\\nBombay Chints ordered \\\"on a fine Mamoodie or Ponabaguzzee\\\" and on Ponabaguzzee, Doorguzzee, Mamodies. Other sorts of Bombay Chitz were ordered as Culme, Romall, Persia, Bulbull, Naffermany. Orders for Bombay chints were very specific about the patterns e.g. \\\"Nosegays and Single flowers\\\", \\\"extra small flowers\\\", \\\"small and very small running work\\\".\\r\\nLaarhoven: Cotton or silk. The etymology of chintz is open to discussion. In Hindi chint infers multicoloured or spotted. The OED and Hobson-Jobson give the Sanskrit meaning of chitra, variegated or speckled. A clear distinction was made between hand painted (geschilderde) and block stamped (gedrukte) chintz. The Indonesians valued hand painted chintz much more than block printed and were willing to pay high porches for them. In 1628 Batavia order from Coromandel, the cloths for chintz printing had to be soft and not closely beaten. Otherwise the cloth would be too hard and the mordant would not penetrate the fibre, but would stay on the surface. The strongest and closest woven cloths were kept for bleaching, not for chintz making. Printed chintz required cloth that had only slightly twisted warp threads which corresponded in balance with the weft threads to make the cloth even and smith. The right weather conditions were also important for the chintz makers too, They needed clear and calm weather, no muddy water and a hot sun to dry their work quickly. Chintz making was therefore seasonal work. The weather conditions were ideal in Ahmedabad from around October to June. Seronj and and Burhanpur were the chief centres for cotton painting in the 17th c. Florence Montgomery: A collection of 76 18th c Indian painted and resist-dyed textiles, probably made for the French market and 74 French block-printed cottons known as indiennes are owned by the Cooper-Hewitt Museum.\\r\\n\"}}","title":"48","enclosures":[],"url":{"rel":"self","length":0,"href":"https://warwick.ac.uk/fac/arts/history/ghcc/eac/databases/textiles/catalogue/store/?selectedLetter=num#def-48"},"content":"","script":"","entryId":"094d43a2407dbf63014087bd17441722","lastUpdated":1415781678399,"anchor":"def-48","parsedContentBody":"","id":"094d43a2407dbf63014087bd17441722","categories":[],"publicationDate":1415781678399,"authors":[{"name":"David Beck"}]},{"metadata":"{\"published\":true,\"image\":[{\"url\":\"2006AH0893_jpg_ds.jpg\",\"viewable\":\"http://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O72841/part-of-a-unknown/\",\"imgnotes\":\"Silk tie-dyed fragment of a handkerchief or rumal, made in Ahemedabad, c.1867, width 40 cm. Victoria and Albert Museum, No.6634(S). This fragmentary piece still bears a label from the 1867 Paris Exhibition, which reads 'Ahmedabad list 101. One Bandhnee Kund or silk cloth red. Price Rs.3.'\"}],\"details\":{\"EICname\":\"Romall\",\"names\":\"Romalls Sacerguntee, Romalls Bengall, Romalls Sootie, Romalls Desta Chay Pollicat (Pulicat), Romalls Gurrub, Romalls Cherconnee, Romalls Soosie, Romalls Dutch Sort, Romalls French Sort, Romalls Silk Lungee \",\"place\":[\"India - Madras/Coromandel\",\"India - Bengal\"],\"placeprod\":\"Metchlepatam, Pollicat (Pulicat), Sechtersoy?\",\"finish\":[\"plain\",\"glazed\"],\"material\":[\"Cotton\",\"Silk\",\"Cotton-Silk mix\"],\"dimensions\":\"3/4 yd, 7/8 yd square,\",\"market\":\"English\",\"colours\":[\"blue\",\"blue and white\",\"blue, bright, not reddish\",\"bright\",\"brown\",\"red and white\",\"red&white\",\"red&white with blues\",\"red&white with blues, with brown corners\",\"red&white with blues, with red and purple borders\",\"red&white with blues, with red borders\",\"red&white, lively\",\"red, bright\"]},\"notes\":{\"notes\":\"used as hankerchiefs\\r\\nSilk Romalls ordered \\\"10 hankerchiefs in a piece\\\".\\r\\nLaarhoven: Also rumals, roemaas, handkerchiefs, neusdoeken. One piece of rumal con sited of a series of squares. Produce din Paleacatm Masulipatnam. The name is derived from two Persian words, 'ru' face and 'malidan' to rub or wipe. The rumals came in a very large variety of patterns, colours and embellishments. The cloths had numerous functions in Indonesia ... The quality could vary too. Many were chintz. Florence Montgomery: (Also rumal.) A handkerchief imported from India; a cover or decorative piece. Silk, cotton and Serunge romans were prohibited in England at the end of the 17th c. (Kress, S22200). A pattern book containing a fascinating variety of ninety-five handkerchiefs swatches, mounted on paper watermarked 'London 1787' is preserved in the Cooper-Hewitt Museum, New York. The samples range from sturdy checked linens to delicate muslins, some with additions of silk and others entirely of silk. Although not identified by place of manufacture, the silk and cotton romals, lungis, pullicates and lustring silk handkerchiefs were probably imported from India for the English market, p333. Spinning World: - romaul (romal, or rumal) small thin squares, woven of cotton or silk, usually decorated with painting, printing, or embroidery. Made in India for use as a covering for wrapping gifts. They were traded on the Guinea Coast in the 18th c. Wellington: Rumal: Handkerchief or head cover (Murphy, 200).\"}}","title":"49","enclosures":[],"url":{"rel":"self","length":0,"href":"https://warwick.ac.uk/fac/arts/history/ghcc/eac/databases/textiles/catalogue/store/?selectedLetter=num#def-49"},"content":"","script":"","entryId":"094d43a2407db20b014087c5f1771999","lastUpdated":1415634779939,"anchor":"def-49","parsedContentBody":"","id":"094d43a2407db20b014087c5f1771999","categories":[],"publicationDate":1415634779939,"authors":[{"name":"David Beck"}]},{"metadata":"{\"published\":true,\"details\":{\"EICname\":\"Gorgoron\",\"place\":[\"China\"],\"material\":[\"Silk\"],\"dimensions\":\"15 yd x ?, 16 1/2 yd x ?, 18 yd x ?, 18 yd x 3/4 yd, 32 yd x 14 nail,\",\"market\":\"English\",\"colours\":[\"ash\",\"ash, dark\",\"black\",\"blue\",\"blue, deep\",\"blue, Mazareen\",\"blue, sky\",\"blue, sky full\",\"blue, sky, pale\",\"brown\",\"cherry\",\"cloth\",\"cloth, dark\",\"cloth, light\",\"cloth, very light\",\"crimson\",\"feuillemorte\",\"green\",\"green, dark\",\"jonquil\",\"lively\",\"pearl\",\"pink\",\"pink, pale\",\"purple in grain\",\"scarlet\",\"scarlet in grain\",\"straw\",\"various\",\"white\",\"yellow\",\"yellow, deep\"],\"pattern\":[\"plain\",\"striped\"]},\"notes\":{\"notes\":\"Florence Montgomery: 'Heavy East Indian silk cloth having stripes woven in two kinds of weaves (Harmuth). 'British East India Company supercargoes used both gorgoroon and gorgoron to refer to a material later called grogram' (Lee-Whitman, p.28), p.247. S.W. Beck, The Drapers' Dictionary, 2nd ed. c.1860 gives various spelling of grogram, including gorgoran. Stuff woven with large wool and a rough pile a sort of stuffof silk; it is in reality no more than a taffety coarser and thicker than ordinary.\\r\\nWellington: Gorgooraan, Gougouras: Obsolete, heavy East Indian silk fabric with stripes in two kinds of weave (Wingate, 270).\",\"contemporary\":\"Ipswich Journal, 11 August 1764\\r\\nAn Accurate List of the Seizure lately made at the Custom house, belonging to a Person of Great Quality. ... 1 piece Indian Silk cut for a sack and Petticoat, 1  Painted Taffety Sack and Petticoat,  2 Indian Gorgoron sacks and Petticoats said to be exported from England, ... the Property of his Lordhsip's Domesticks.\"}}","title":"5","enclosures":[],"url":{"rel":"self","length":0,"href":"https://warwick.ac.uk/fac/arts/history/ghcc/eac/databases/textiles/catalogue/store/?selectedLetter=num#def-5"},"content":"","script":"","entryId":"094d43a24073561e0140781f6f3e42b8","lastUpdated":1414751676254,"anchor":"def-5","parsedContentBody":"","id":"094d43a24073561e0140781f6f3e42b8","categories":[],"publicationDate":1414751676254,"authors":[{"name":"David Beck"}]},{"metadata":"{\"published\":true,\"image\":[{\"url\":\"BaftaSample1116013.JPG\",\"imgnotes\":\"Swedish East India Company Sales Catalog (1735), containing goods brought home by the ship Ulrica Elenora. Images from copy with textile samples, held in archive of the Danish West Indian Company (Vestindisk-Guineisk Kompagni), in the series: Charles Barringtons med Grevinden af Laurwigen hjemførte arkiv, 1725-1738, Volume 219, Danish National Archive (Rigsarkivet), Copenhagen. \"},{\"url\":\"BAFTA-2negotiationprotokoll_1116_016.JPG\"},{\"url\":\"BAFTA-3negotiationprotokoll 1116 030.JPG\"}],\"details\":{\"EICname\":\"Bafta\",\"names\":\"pl. Baftaes\",\"place\":[\"India - Bombay/Suratt\",\"India - Bengal\"],\"placeprod\":\"Dacca, Patna, Jugdea, Chute,\",\"finish\":[\"embroidered\"],\"material\":[\"Cotton\"],\"dimensions\":\"broad, narrow, ? x 1 1/8 yd, 7 1/2 yd x 7/8 yd, 12 yd x 1yd, 12 1/2 yd x 1 yd, 13 yd x 1 yd, 18 yd x ?, 18 yd x 1 yd, 18 yd x 1 7/8 yd, 36 cov x 1 1/2 cov,\",\"market\":\"English\",\"colours\":[\"blue\",\"blue black\",\"various\",\"white\"],\"pattern\":[\"flowered\",\"checked\"]},\"notes\":{\"notes\":\"Cheaper ones ordered \\\"without Congee\\\"\\r\\nfiner ones ordered \\\"with gold lists\\\", \\\"with gold heads\\\"some Bengal Jugdea Baftaes sent to Madras for printing (\\\"patterned, various\\\", \\\"lively, on white ground\\\"). .Florence Montgomery, 'A generic term for plain calico of Gujarat (Western India) varying in quality from coarse to fine ... Baftas sent to Europe were usually white, but for Asian markets they were more commonly dyed red, blue or black (Irwin and Schwartz). Baftas were among the cloths imported for printing on. The word appears on the bottom of a printed textile of about 1775 in the collection of Henry René D'Allegmagne: Manufacture d'indienne Hollandaise de Christ-de-Vries, regié par Dubern et Comp. a Nantes, Bon teinte, Baffetas'' (D'Allegmage, pl.56). The fabric was used in France in the 19th c. for furnishing. About 1745 in Newport, Rhode Island, John Banister ordered '1 Demy Chints Baftaes 6 1/2 yds @ 21/-.'. A swatch of 'Baffetas droguetté' of blue silk warp and white cotton weft in a small floral and leaf figure is in the Journal für Fabrik, November 1794. Coarse cotton cloths printed in red and brown are found as lining materials of several eighteenth-century quilted silk bedspreads in the Winterthur Museum. DTG&C: The term is derived from the Persian word 'bafta' meaning woven. Baftas were a kind of calico, made especially in Baroch, although they were made in other part of `india, Yule included a quotation indicating that the cloths were 'carried white to Agra and Amadabad, in regard those cities are nearest the places where indigo is made that is used in colouring'. They were also apparently painted red and black for the Asian markets, though imported white into this country. Milburn (1813) included them in Indian Piece Goods imported from Bengal. The earliest date given by Yule is 1598. Laarhoven: says that Broach was known throughout India for the best Bafta, Other places in Gujarats areas: Navsaric, Gandevt, Bulsar, Awadh, Baroda. In Jambusar they were dyed a specialisation there, Later available from Paleacat, Petapuli and Masulipatam all on the Coromandel Coast. . In Suart the bafta cloths were folded in quares or oblongs, They were one of the heaviest cloths. The authenticity of a bafta was indicated by a golden seal on the back of its paper wrapping. Bafta was a plain weave with fine thread dyed ion the cloth. No decoration or designs are mentioned in the early part of the 17th c., but between 1650 and 1700 bafta with gold thread embellishment were needed, Uses- underwear, tablecloths and napkins in the Netherlands. In Turkey and Persia they were worn in the summer. The bafta from Surat was generally cheaper than those from Coromandel. \"}}","title":"50","enclosures":[],"url":{"rel":"self","length":0,"href":"https://warwick.ac.uk/fac/arts/history/ghcc/eac/databases/textiles/catalogue/store/?selectedLetter=num#def-50"},"content":"","script":"","entryId":"094d43a2407db20b014096d19a0f36d4","lastUpdated":1415784745084,"anchor":"def-50","parsedContentBody":"","id":"094d43a2407db20b014096d19a0f36d4","categories":[],"publicationDate":1415784745084,"authors":[{"name":"David Beck"}]},{"metadata":"{\"published\":true,\"details\":{\"EICname\":\"Birampaut\",\"place\":[\"India - Bombay/Suratt\"],\"material\":[\"Cotton\"],\"dimensions\":\"18 yd x 1 yd,\",\"market\":\"English\",\"colours\":[\"blue black\",\"red\",\"white\"]},\"notes\":{\"notes\":\"some Birampauts ordered with \\\"no congee\\\". Laarhove: Before 1600 beiramee (also behrams, \\r\\nbyrams, byrampaut, birampaat) was a white cotton of superior quality, but during the VOC period it was usually an inferior cotton dyed red of black in the cloth. The Company sold the black ones best in Indonesia. They were made up sometimes from bafta or mercoolees cloth. The latter were also woven in the Surat area in jaipur and Lucknow. Cambay produced a red beirameee, Beiramee should not be confused with beiraram a white gauze from Bengal, according to Irwin (1966). Florence Montgomery: A cotton cloth made in India. In the 16th c. breams were famous as a superior white calico imported by the Portuguese from India; in the 17th c. they were a 'coarse and inferior calico, usually dyed red, blue or black for Asian markets' (Irwin & Schwartz), In the 18th c there were 'white plain berams, and others striped with colours. The white are about 11 yards long, and about a yard wide; the red are 15 yards long, and something less than a yard wide' (Postlethwayt). \"}}","title":"51","enclosures":[],"url":{"rel":"self","length":0,"href":"https://warwick.ac.uk/fac/arts/history/ghcc/eac/databases/textiles/catalogue/store/?selectedLetter=num#def-51"},"content":"","script":"","entryId":"094d43a2407db20b01409beb8beb028a","lastUpdated":1411398933277,"anchor":"def-51","parsedContentBody":"","id":"094d43a2407db20b01409beb8beb028a","categories":[],"publicationDate":1411398933277,"authors":[{"name":"David Beck"}]},{"metadata":"{\"published\":true,\"details\":{\"EICname\":\"Bejutapaut\",\"place\":[\"India - Bombay/Suratt\"],\"material\":[\"Cotton\"],\"dimensions\":\"18 yd x 1 yd,\",\"market\":\"English\",\"colours\":[\"blue\",\"red\"],\"pattern\":[\"striped\",\"checked\"]},\"notes\":{\"notes\":\"DTG&G: From the Hindi 'be-juts' meaning 'without join', meaning 'a piece' bejutapauts were included by Milburn among Indian Piece Goods, formerly imported from Bombay and Surat. Their importation was seen as a threat to British manufacture and they were therefore banned from home use, though import and re-export for Africa continued. They were listed among the 'India goods for Africa' in the 1760s Acts (1766). Like many imports from India bejutapaut seems to have been a name unacceptable to the buying public, so that if and when it was offered form sale in the shops during the 17th c, it must have been under the name of calico. OED earliest date of use 1725.\"}}","title":"52","enclosures":[],"url":{"rel":"self","length":0,"href":"https://warwick.ac.uk/fac/arts/history/ghcc/eac/databases/textiles/catalogue/store/?selectedLetter=num#def-52"},"content":"","script":"","entryId":"094d43a2407dbf6301409bee42e60042","lastUpdated":1411398512751,"anchor":"def-52","parsedContentBody":"","id":"094d43a2407dbf6301409bee42e60042","categories":[],"publicationDate":1411398512751,"authors":[{"name":"David Beck"}]},{"metadata":"{\"published\":true,\"image\":[{\"url\":\"DOREAnegotiationprotokoll1116029.JPG\",\"imgnotes\":\"Swedish East India Company Sales Catalog (1735), containing goods brought home by the ship Ulrica Elenora. Images from copy with textile samples, held in archive of the Danish West Indian Company (Vestindisk-Guineisk Kompagni), in the series: Charles Barringtons med Grevinden af Laurwigen hjemførte arkiv, 1725-1738, Volume 219, Danish National Archive (Rigsarkivet), Copenhagen. \"}],\"details\":{\"EICname\":\"Dorea, Book Dorea\",\"place\":[\"India - Bombay/Suratt\",\"India - Bengal\"],\"placeprod\":\"Coincola, Cossajura, Charconnae, Gopaulpore, Dacca, \",\"technique\":\"muslin\",\"finish\":[\"embroidered\"],\"material\":[\"Cotton\"],\"dimensions\":\"10 yd x 1 yd, 20 yd x 1 yd, ? x 1 1/8 yd, ? x 1 1/4 yd 1 ell,\",\"market\":\"English\",\"pattern\":[\"plain\",\"patterned\",\"striped\",\"flowered\",\"striped and flowered\",\"checked\"]},\"notes\":{\"notes\":\"orders for Cossajura Doreas give very detailed specifications for the stripes (9 different kinds)\\r\\nWellington: Doreas, Doria: 1) Muslin or white cotton cloth from Bengal. They are coarse and fine, striped and checked (Savary, 1.1719). 2) Striped or chequered fabric of mixed silk and cotton (Irwin, 63).\",\"contemporary\":\"Morning Chronicle and London Advertiser 30 March 1787, India Muslin warehouse. Messrs Smith and Co at the Three Pigeons and Sceptre 173 Fleet Street, having purchased several thousand pounds worth of muslins exceedingly low, they are enabled to sell them for ready money from 10 to 20 per cent cheaper that at any other house in London. They beg leace to inform ladies that their purchase consists of four - fourths , five fifths and six sixths wide Jaconets etc etc... Ballasore, decca and Book handkerchiefs.\"}}","title":"53","enclosures":[],"url":{"rel":"self","length":0,"href":"https://warwick.ac.uk/fac/arts/history/ghcc/eac/databases/textiles/catalogue/store/?selectedLetter=num#def-53"},"content":"","script":"","entryId":"094d43a2407dbf6301409befc59b0069","lastUpdated":1416147793387,"anchor":"def-53","parsedContentBody":"","id":"094d43a2407dbf6301409befc59b0069","categories":[],"publicationDate":1416147793387,"authors":[{"name":"David Beck"}]},{"metadata":"{\"published\":true,\"details\":{\"EICname\":\"Bombay Stuff\",\"place\":[\"India - Bombay/Suratt\"],\"material\":[\"Cotton\"],\"dimensions\":\"14 yd x 1 yd,\",\"market\":\"English\",\"colours\":[\"blue and white\",\"brown\",\"red and white\",\"yellow and white\"]}}","title":"54","enclosures":[],"url":{"rel":"self","length":0,"href":"https://warwick.ac.uk/fac/arts/history/ghcc/eac/databases/textiles/catalogue/store/?selectedLetter=num#def-54"},"content":"","script":"","entryId":"094d43a2407db20b01409bf39097035b","lastUpdated":1377005965000,"anchor":"def-54","parsedContentBody":"","id":"094d43a2407db20b01409bf39097035b","categories":[],"publicationDate":1377005965000,"authors":[{"name":"David Beck"}]},{"metadata":"{\"published\":true,\"details\":{\"EICname\":\"Brawl\",\"names\":\"pl. Brawles\",\"place\":[\"India - Bombay/Suratt\"],\"market\":\"English\"}}","title":"55","enclosures":[],"url":{"rel":"self","length":0,"href":"https://warwick.ac.uk/fac/arts/history/ghcc/eac/databases/textiles/catalogue/store/?selectedLetter=num#def-55"},"content":"","script":"","entryId":"094d43a2407db20b01409bf4f6940379","lastUpdated":1377006057000,"anchor":"def-55","parsedContentBody":"","id":"094d43a2407db20b01409bf4f6940379","categories":[],"publicationDate":1377006057000,"authors":[{"name":"David Beck"}]},{"metadata":"{\"published\":true,\"image\":[{\"url\":\"OstindisktekstilfraVgK121.jpg\",\"imgnotes\":\"No.5 Chellos from Danish West India and Guinea Company, box 121 held in archive of the Danish West Indian Company (Vestindisk-Guineisk Kompagni), Danish National Archive (Rigsarkivet), Copenhagen. \"}],\"details\":{\"EICname\":\"Chella, Chello\",\"names\":\"pl. Chellaes, Chelloes\",\"place\":[\"India - Bombay/Suratt\",\"India - Bengal\"],\"placeprod\":\"Nunsaree\",\"material\":[\"Cotton\"],\"dimensions\":\"18 yd x 1 yd,\",\"market\":\"English\",\"colours\":[\"blue\",\"blue and white\",\"blue black\",\"red\"],\"pattern\":[\"striped\",\"checked\"]},\"notes\":{\"notes\":\"Chelloes ordered from Bombay were required to be \\\"thick\\\". Laarhoven: Also known as chela, chills, chailouw, produced in Broach, Madraspatnam and Jagerapur. From Coromandel came chelas regattas and chelas branches. The latter a dramatic looking cloth of white with black striped or white and black checks with black striped interspersed. Most chelas were checkered blue, red or black on a white background. The check was formed in the thread with thin stripes in the weft and warp. Some were woven with yellow thread in the ground. Chelas were also produced in Indonesia and exported from Makassar to the surrounding islands after the Company's textile trade declined. Chelas were textiles that had been traded for a long time pre-dating the VOV. Florence Montgomery: Inexpensiove cotton doth from India with red, blue or bald stripes, patterned in the loom (Irwin & Schwartz). Chelles were checked and used for trousers of salves, according to Savary des Bruslons. In 1767 James Beekman's factor wrote : 'We have sent you ten Chelloes of a finer sort than you wrote for being smaller checks and much better cloth than the lower, and cheaper than they have been for some years (2:912), p.197. Accoridng to SW chello (chela or chillae) were cotton handkerchiefs usually striped or chequered blue and white (loom patterned). Made in north-east India. The name perhaps derived from Sanskrit chela or chaila 'a kind of scarf or mantle'. It was exported mainly to the Malay archipelago'. Wellington; Chileas,Chillaies, Chelles, Chelloes, Chelos, Cheilos 1) Cotton fabric, checked and different colours, coming from India, Surat. (Savary, 1, 715). 2) Cotton handkerchief, usually stiped blue and white (Irwin, 61). 3) Cheilos: striped cotton fabric medium quality in West African trade from Gujarat (Chaudhuri, 501), 4) Chillae: striped cotton fabric in blue and white from Bengal. Medium quality. Clothing and re-sport trade, 18th c, (Chaudhuri, 503). 5) Chelos, Plain weave, East Indian calico, shirting printed in checks and plaids.\"}}","title":"56","enclosures":[],"url":{"rel":"self","length":0,"href":"https://warwick.ac.uk/fac/arts/history/ghcc/eac/databases/textiles/catalogue/store/?selectedLetter=num#def-56"},"content":"","script":"","entryId":"094d43a2407dbf63014096f09a8036de","lastUpdated":1415632634825,"anchor":"def-56","parsedContentBody":"","id":"094d43a2407dbf63014096f09a8036de","categories":[],"publicationDate":1415632634825,"authors":[{"name":"David Beck"}]},{"metadata":"{\"published\":true,\"details\":{\"EICname\":\"Coriat\",\"place\":[\"India - Bombay/Suratt\"],\"placeprod\":\"Neugenah? Bugetar?\",\"market\":\"English\"}}","title":"57","enclosures":[],"url":{"rel":"self","length":0,"href":"https://warwick.ac.uk/fac/arts/history/ghcc/eac/databases/textiles/catalogue/store/?selectedLetter=num#def-57"},"content":"","script":"","entryId":"094d43a2407dbf6301409c181d300466","lastUpdated":1377008360000,"anchor":"def-57","parsedContentBody":"","id":"094d43a2407dbf6301409c181d300466","categories":[],"publicationDate":1377008360000,"authors":[{"name":"David Beck"}]},{"metadata":"{\"published\":true,\"image\":[{\"url\":\"COUTANIEnegotiationprotokoll1116060.JPG\",\"imgnotes\":\"Swedish East India Company Sales Catalog (1735), containing goods brought home by the ship Ulrica Elenora. Images from copy with textile samples, held in archive of the Danish West Indian Company (Vestindisk-Guineisk Kompagni), in the series: Charles Barringtons med Grevinden af Laurwigen hjemførte arkiv, 1725-1738, Volume 219, Danish National Archive (Rigsarkivet), Copenhagen. \"}],\"details\":{\"EICname\":\"Cuttanee\",\"names\":\"Atlas Cuttanee\",\"place\":[\"India - Bengal\"],\"finish\":[\"plain\"],\"material\":[\"Cotton\"],\"dimensions\":\"15 yd x ?, 30 cov x ?,\",\"market\":\"English\",\"colours\":[\"lively\",\"white&green/red/other\"],\"pattern\":[\"striped\",\"flowered\",\"striped and flowered\"]},\"notes\":{\"notes\":\"Laarhioven: Also coutenis, coutenys, cuttanee, cootenies. Silk, or half silk and half fine cotton, made in Amadabad. The name could have come from the Persian kuttan, a piece of clothing. Coutens have been described as precious cloths with undecorated and striped varieties.The stripe effect was a result of the atlas or satin weave in the warp.They were largely exported to Europe. Florence Montgomery:'An important [17thc] Gujarati export cloth of mixed silk and cotton with satin wave, usually striped and sometimes interspersed with flowers. Much in demand for the making of quilts, which were popular in England (Irwin and Schwartz). According to a Royal Africa Company letter of 1678 cuttanees (portably plain woven cotton) were imported for printing in England. Around 1719 'Striped, Floured and Wrought Cuttannees' were among prohibited East India goods, p.210. Wellington Cuttanees, Kootnee: 1) Cloth of silk and cotton satin weave, striped or flowered (Irwin, 63), 2) Plain white and striped cotton fabri,. Superior to fine quality, Bengal, Fashionwear and re-export trade (Chaudhuri, 504),. 3) Indian fabric made of fine linen or silk and cotton (Wingate, 75)\",\"contemporary\":\"See http://coraginsburg.com/catalogues/2010/cat2101pg14-15.htm -accessed 11 March 2013, fro article on 'Textile pattern books with wool swatches c.1815-30s', makes reference to cuttni.\"}}","title":"58","enclosures":[],"url":{"rel":"self","length":0,"href":"https://warwick.ac.uk/fac/arts/history/ghcc/eac/databases/textiles/catalogue/store/?selectedLetter=num#def-58"},"content":"","script":"","entryId":"094d43a2407db20b014096c1c7873557","lastUpdated":1416146742912,"anchor":"def-58","parsedContentBody":"","id":"094d43a2407db20b014096c1c7873557","categories":[],"publicationDate":1416146742912,"authors":[{"name":"David Beck"}]},{"metadata":"{\"published\":true,\"details\":{\"EICname\":\"Cuttanee\",\"place\":[\"India - Bombay/Suratt\"],\"market\":\"English\",\"pattern\":[\"striped\",\"striped and flowered\"]}}","title":"58","enclosures":[],"url":{"rel":"self","length":0,"href":"https://warwick.ac.uk/fac/arts/history/ghcc/eac/databases/textiles/catalogue/store/?selectedLetter=num#def-58"},"content":"","script":"","entryId":"094d43a2407db20b01409c1c029b0770","lastUpdated":1377008616000,"anchor":"def-58","parsedContentBody":"","id":"094d43a2407db20b01409c1c029b0770","categories":[],"publicationDate":1377008616000,"authors":[{"name":"David Beck"}]},{"metadata":"{\"published\":true,\"details\":{\"EICname\":\"Culbell, Culbelle?\",\"place\":[\"India - Bombay/Suratt\"],\"market\":\"English\"}}","title":"59","enclosures":[],"url":{"rel":"self","length":0,"href":"https://warwick.ac.uk/fac/arts/history/ghcc/eac/databases/textiles/catalogue/store/?selectedLetter=num#def-59"},"content":"","script":"","entryId":"094d43a2407dbf6301409c1d6ec90506","lastUpdated":1377008709000,"anchor":"def-59","parsedContentBody":"","id":"094d43a2407dbf6301409c1d6ec90506","categories":[],"publicationDate":1377008709000,"authors":[{"name":"David Beck"}]},{"metadata":"{\"published\":true,\"details\":{\"EICname\":\"Ninquam\",\"place\":[\"China\"],\"material\":[\"Silk\"],\"market\":\"English\"}}","title":"6","enclosures":[],"url":{"rel":"self","length":0,"href":"https://warwick.ac.uk/fac/arts/history/ghcc/eac/databases/textiles/catalogue/store/?selectedLetter=num#def-6"},"content":"","script":"","entryId":"094d43a24073538f014078209f024272","lastUpdated":1376580067000,"anchor":"def-6","parsedContentBody":"","id":"094d43a24073538f014078209f024272","categories":[],"publicationDate":1376580067000,"authors":[{"name":"David Beck"}]},{"metadata":"{\"published\":true,\"details\":{\"EICname\":\"Dereband\",\"place\":[\"India - Bombay/Suratt\"],\"material\":[\"Cotton\"],\"dimensions\":\"small, large, 18 yd x 1 yd, 18 yd x 1 1/8 yd, 19 yd x 1 yd,\",\"market\":\"English\",\"colours\":[\"white\"]},\"notes\":{\"notes\":\"Wellington: Deriabnds, Deriabads, Deribadis, Deritehdim Derebands Deriabad 1) White cotton fabric from India, Some coarser and stronger than others (Savary, 1, 1681). 2) Good quality palin white calico, (Irwin, 63). 3) White cotton fabric, Coarse to medium quality, Domestic and general use, From North India in 17th c. (Chaudhuri, 501). 4) Bleached Indian cotton fabric (Wingate, 186).\"}}","title":"60","enclosures":[],"url":{"rel":"self","length":0,"href":"https://warwick.ac.uk/fac/arts/history/ghcc/eac/databases/textiles/catalogue/store/?selectedLetter=num#def-60"},"content":"","script":"","entryId":"094d43a2407db20b01409c2071c007df","lastUpdated":1412772842698,"anchor":"def-60","parsedContentBody":"","id":"094d43a2407db20b01409c2071c007df","categories":[],"publicationDate":1412772842698,"authors":[{"name":"David Beck"}]},{"metadata":"{\"published\":true,\"image\":[{\"url\":\"Dungaree\",\"viewable\":\"http://www.tmoi.org.uk/?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage-ask.tpl&product_id=435&category_id=213\",\"imgnotes\":\"From Forbes Watson, Textile manufactures of India, Harris Museum, Preston. No. 474: Cotton/Dungary\\r\\nExtra Information: Cotton. 'Dungary' cloth; coarse.Salem, Tamil Nadu, India\\r\\nhttp://www.tmoi.org.uk/?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage-ask.tpl&product_id=435&category_id=213\\r\\n\"}],\"details\":{\"EICname\":\"Dungaree\",\"place\":[\"India - Bombay/Suratt\",\"India - Bengal\"],\"material\":[\"Cotton\"],\"market\":\"English\",\"colours\":[\"white\"]},\"notes\":{\"notes\":\"Bengali Dungarees mainly ordered \\\"double, for sailcloth\\\". Some Bengali Dungarees ordered \\\"double, double-threaded\\\" and \\\"beyond the common price in fineness\\\".\\r\\n\\r\\nLaarhoven: Dongris, Dongrys, Dungarees. Dongris was usually made of coarse twisted warp and weft thread. In the first quarter of the 18th c. it came in 15 varieties, and was often equated with Poutkas (from the Hindi meaning turban piece or small scarf). It was earlier considered an inferior cloth. The VOC used the dongris often as wrapping for fine textiles, bags to hold coins etc. The locals used it also as sailcloth. Eight dongris were equated with one piece of guinees cloth in size.\",\"contemporary\":\"Old Bailey 1863 2 March ... John Scott accused of stealing 1 coat from a sailor ... I saw the prisoner dressed in a pilot-jacket, a guernsey, a Scotch cap and a dungaree frock ...'.\"}}","title":"61","enclosures":[],"url":{"rel":"self","length":0,"href":"https://warwick.ac.uk/fac/arts/history/ghcc/eac/databases/textiles/catalogue/store/?selectedLetter=num#def-61"},"content":"","script":"","entryId":"094d43a2407dbf6301409c21bf1d0576","lastUpdated":1414750506083,"anchor":"def-61","parsedContentBody":"","id":"094d43a2407dbf6301409c21bf1d0576","categories":[],"publicationDate":1414750506083,"authors":[{"name":"David Beck"}]},{"metadata":"{\"published\":true,\"details\":{\"EICname\":\"Guinea Stuff\",\"place\":[\"India - Bombay/Suratt\"],\"material\":[\"Cotton\"],\"dimensions\":\"18 yd x 1 yd\",\"market\":\"English\",\"colours\":[\"black\",\"blue\",\"blue and white\",\"blue, dark\",\"white grounds and Plodds\"],\"pattern\":[\"patterned\",\"checked\",\"Plodd\"]},\"notes\":{\"notes\":\"Laarhoven: Guinees, Guinea cloth - Cotton cloth there were 13 production places for coarse guinees and 20 places for ordinary bleached varieties. The VOC traded this cloth before the English, to the Guinea Coast of Africa to pay for slaves. Traded in large quantities to the Indonesian islands. The English who used to call this cloth by the same name as the Dutch in Indonesia until the 1620s, dropped the name after they were forced out of the Spice Islands by the Dutch. They started to trade cloth destined for the slaves in Brazil and called the guinees from that time onwards long cloth - literally because the length was longer than any other woven piece in India. One guinea was worth half a salempore. Guinees were very durable, used as household linen, shirt material, covers, wrappers etc. Florence Montgomery: Cheap, brightly coloured Indian cottons imported by the East India Company to sell on the Guinea Coast, and to plantation owners in the West Indies as cheap clothing for slaves. 'They were mostly striped or chequered cloths, much admired on account of the brightness of their colours and the fact that the dyes were non-fugitive' (Irwin & Schwartz, p.12). The Maurepas Papers of about 1743 state that 'Cotton cloths called guineas, dyed green, blue, maroon etc were manufactured in Holland for sale in Spain as hollandilles. 'Indiennes ou Guinées' found in the Richelieu Papers for 1736 are coarse printed cottons exported from Marseilles. The reverse trade is shown by swatches of coarse striped cotton cloths made in Africa and brought to New Jersey in the 19th c. `illustrated om p.253, Fig.D-54 swatches of coarse cotton stripes 'Woven on the last of Guinea Africa by the negroes brought to this country in the winter of 1800' from a New Jersey Scrapbook made in 1880s now in Winterthur Museum and Library. Spinning World: general term for a variety of low-cost cottons, made in western India. They were striped or checked (loom patterned) with coloured threads. \"}}","title":"62","enclosures":[],"url":{"rel":"self","length":0,"href":"https://warwick.ac.uk/fac/arts/history/ghcc/eac/databases/textiles/catalogue/store/?selectedLetter=num#def-62"},"content":"","script":"","entryId":"094d43a2407db20b01409c2630090861","lastUpdated":1411474696548,"anchor":"def-62","parsedContentBody":"","id":"094d43a2407db20b01409c2630090861","categories":[],"publicationDate":1411474696548,"authors":[{"name":"David Beck"}]},{"metadata":"{\"published\":true,\"details\":{\"EICname\":\"Lemanee\",\"place\":[\"India - Bombay/Suratt\"],\"material\":[\"Cotton\"],\"dimensions\":\"20 yd x 1 yd, ? x 3/4 yd, ? x 7/8 yd,\",\"market\":\"English\",\"colours\":[\"blue ground\",\"green, light ground\"]},\"notes\":{\"notes\":\"some ordered \\\" made in handkerchiefs\\\"\\r\\nWellington: Limace, Limances, Limaconne, Limande, Lemanee. Striped cotton from Gujarat in 18th c. (Chaudhuri, 501)\"}}","title":"63","enclosures":[],"url":{"rel":"self","length":0,"href":"https://warwick.ac.uk/fac/arts/history/ghcc/eac/databases/textiles/catalogue/store/?selectedLetter=num#def-63"},"content":"","script":"","entryId":"094d43a2407db20b01409c2c2edf0907","lastUpdated":1412857432572,"anchor":"def-63","parsedContentBody":"","id":"094d43a2407db20b01409c2c2edf0907","categories":[],"publicationDate":1412857432572,"authors":[{"name":"David Beck"}]},{"metadata":"{\"published\":true,\"image\":[{\"url\":\"Loogee\",\"viewable\":\"http://www.tmoi.org.uk/?page=shop.product_details&flypage=garden_flypage.tpl&product_id=86&category_id=57\",\"imgnotes\":\"From Forbes Watson, Textile Manufactures of India, Harris Museum, Preston. No. 86: Man's garment/Loongee\\r\\nExtra Information: Man's garment. Cotton and silk Loongee or scarf.From: Jhelum, Punjab, Pakistan\\r\\n\\r\\n\"}],\"details\":{\"EICname\":\"Lungea, Lungee\",\"names\":\"Lungea Dolekea, Lungea Chendar Kola, Lungea Gurrub Soote Pale Sabaty, Lungea Gurrub Soote Padela, Lungee Charcony\",\"place\":[\"India - Bombay/Suratt\",\"India - Bengal\"],\"material\":[\"Cotton\",\"Silk\",\"Cotton-Herba mix\"],\"market\":\"English\"},\"notes\":{\"notes\":\"Florence Montgomery: Also lungee. ... used by Indians for loin-cloths. 'The body is of small blue and white checks, the selvedge is composed of various coloured stripes and a narrow red stripe is running length wise in the middle' (Harmuth). The word is often linked with romal. 'Silk Lungees at 1s and Herba and Cotten Lungees at 3s 6d' were imported into London about 1700 (Kress S2180).DTG&C: Included by Milburn in his List of Indian piece goods. The anonymous author do The Merchant;s Warehouse Laid Open wrote that it was 'mad elf the same stuff your Grass Taffeties ... with this difference; this sort is wore with a variety of colours, checker'd, and some wrought with flowers in the midst of the check, this is made of an Indian grass or Herb, from whence come the name of Longees Herba, they contain ten yards in each piece, and are proper for slight uses, as Linen of Beds, and for Window Curtains, they were very slight and thin, but after either, they are like a rag' Anon, 1696. OED earliest date of use 1634. Wellington: Loonghee, Longyi, Lungi, Loonghie, Loongie, Loongyee, Lungee: 1) in French called pagne (Wingate, 363) 2) Palin weave Indian cotton fabric in white to dark blue or small check with ski or gold border (Wingate, 363). 3) Natural bleached or dyed cotton fabric made in India; sometimes interwoven with silk threads and embroidered, (Wingate, 363).\"}}","title":"64","enclosures":[],"url":{"rel":"self","length":0,"href":"https://warwick.ac.uk/fac/arts/history/ghcc/eac/databases/textiles/catalogue/store/?selectedLetter=num#def-64"},"content":"","script":"","entryId":"094d43a2407dbf6301409c322d190706","lastUpdated":1412857619089,"anchor":"def-64","parsedContentBody":"","id":"094d43a2407dbf6301409c322d190706","categories":[],"publicationDate":1412857619089,"authors":[{"name":"David Beck"}]},{"metadata":"{\"published\":true,\"details\":{\"EICname\":\"Tuta humsy\",\"place\":[\"India - Bombay/Suratt\"],\"material\":[\"Cotton\"],\"market\":\"English\"}}","title":"65","enclosures":[],"url":{"rel":"self","length":0,"href":"https://warwick.ac.uk/fac/arts/history/ghcc/eac/databases/textiles/catalogue/store/?selectedLetter=num#def-65"},"content":"","script":"","entryId":"094d43a2407dbf6301409c33a9be072b","lastUpdated":1377010166000,"anchor":"def-65","parsedContentBody":"","id":"094d43a2407dbf6301409c33a9be072b","categories":[],"publicationDate":1377010166000,"authors":[{"name":"David Beck"}]},{"metadata":"{\"published\":true,\"details\":{\"EICname\":\"Mamodie, Mamoodie\",\"names\":\"pl. Mamodies\",\"place\":[\"India - Bombay/Suratt\"],\"material\":[\"Cotton\"],\"dimensions\":\"19 yd x 1 yd, ? x 1 3/16 yd,\",\"market\":\"English\"},\"notes\":{\"notes\":\"Wellington: Mamondis, Mahmud, Mamoudi, Mamoudie: 1) Handwoven Indian muslin (Wingate, 372) 2) General term for Indian calicoes (Wingate, 372).\"}}","title":"66","enclosures":[],"url":{"rel":"self","length":0,"href":"https://warwick.ac.uk/fac/arts/history/ghcc/eac/databases/textiles/catalogue/store/?selectedLetter=num#def-66"},"content":"","script":"","entryId":"094d43a2407dbf6301409c3769f0076a","lastUpdated":1412857721682,"anchor":"def-66","parsedContentBody":"","id":"094d43a2407dbf6301409c3769f0076a","categories":[],"publicationDate":1412857721682,"authors":[{"name":"David Beck"}]},{"metadata":"{\"published\":true,\"details\":{\"EICname\":\"Neganepaut\",\"place\":[\"India - Bombay/Suratt\"],\"material\":[\"Cotton\"],\"dimensions\":\"18 yd x 1 yd,\",\"market\":\"English\",\"colours\":[\"blue\",\"red\"],\"pattern\":[\"striped\",\"checked\"]},\"notes\":{\"notes\":\"DTG&C: Or Negampants. The form 'Neganepaut' is found in other sources, which is probably nearer to the original in so far as the ending is almost certainly from the Hindi term 'pat' meaning 'a piece'. It is included among East Indian piece goods formerly imported from Bombay and ~Surat during the eighteenth century (Yule and Burnell 1886), OED earlier date of use 1725. Wellington: Striped medium quality, West African trade, Gujarat, 18th c. (Chaufdhuri, 502)\"}}","title":"67","enclosures":[],"url":{"rel":"self","length":0,"href":"https://warwick.ac.uk/fac/arts/history/ghcc/eac/databases/textiles/catalogue/store/?selectedLetter=num#def-67"},"content":"","script":"","entryId":"094d43a2407db20b01409c3a6eec0a34","lastUpdated":1413197426381,"anchor":"def-67","parsedContentBody":"","id":"094d43a2407db20b01409c3a6eec0a34","categories":[],"publicationDate":1413197426381,"authors":[{"name":"David Beck"}]},{"metadata":"{\"published\":true,\"image\":[{\"url\":\"OstindisktekstilfraVgK121.jpg\",\"imgnotes\":\"No.4 Nicone from Danish West India and Guinea Company, box 121 held in archive of the Danish West Indian Company (Vestindisk-Guineisk Kompagni), Danish National Archive (Rigsarkivet), Copenhagen. \"}],\"details\":{\"EICname\":\"Niccanee\",\"place\":[\"India - Bombay/Suratt\"],\"material\":[\"Cotton\"],\"dimensions\":\"large, small, short, ? x 1 yd,\",\"market\":\"English\",\"colours\":[\"blue and white\"],\"pattern\":[\"striped\"]},\"notes\":{\"notes\":\"Laarhoven: Also Necanias, Niccannees. The origin of the name is not known. Niaquanias were common textiles of blue and white stripes from Surat, available in broad and narrow, long and short , course and fine varieties. Each year the VOC ordered many bales of niquanias, which they gave semi-annually to the slaves and prisoners.Florence Montgomery: A cheap Indian striped calico, patterned in the loom, and bought mainly for the slave markets. Irwin suggested that it may have been the same as modern nakhuma with white warp and the weft striped in various colours (Irwin & Schwartz). Savary des Bruslons said they were blue and white striped They are found grouped with other Guinea stuff such as brawls, tapsels and anabasses. Western imitations were made of cotton and wool, p.308.DTG&C: A kind of textile included by Milburn among Indian piece goods, formerly imported from Bombay and Surat. Like many imports from india, niccanee seems to have been a name deemed unacceptable to the buying public, so that if and when it was offered for sale in the shops during the 17th c it must have been sold under some generic term like calico. Spinning World; low-priced striped cotton cloth (loom patterned). It was produced in western India and bought by British merchants mainly for the Guinea trade. Wellington: Nekania, Necanias, Nickanees, Nekhumans, Nicannees: 1) Striped blue or white fabric, (Savary, 3, 1082) 2) Cheap striped calico, patterned in the loom, Bought fro slave market, (Irwin, 69) 3) Striped. Coarse to medium quality, West African trade, Gujarat, 17th-18th c. (Chaudhuri, 501).\"}}","title":"68","enclosures":[],"url":{"rel":"self","length":0,"href":"https://warwick.ac.uk/fac/arts/history/ghcc/eac/databases/textiles/catalogue/store/?selectedLetter=num#def-68"},"content":"","script":"","entryId":"094d43a2407dbf6301409c3c7fbd07f0","lastUpdated":1415634567554,"anchor":"def-68","parsedContentBody":"","id":"094d43a2407dbf6301409c3c7fbd07f0","categories":[],"publicationDate":1415634567554,"authors":[{"name":"David Beck"}]},{"metadata":"{\"published\":true,\"image\":[{\"url\":\"2007BN1816_jpg_ds.jpg\",\"viewable\":\"http://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O93153/quilt-unknown/\",\"imgnotes\":\"A rectangular, painted and dyed cotton quilted bed-cover. The design is of large palmettes and flowers in red and blue on white. Made Coromandel Coast, c.1700-1750, length 335 cm, width 217 cm. Museum no.IS17-1976. Quilted bed-covers of chintz fabric (Indian painted and dyed cotton) were very popular export items for both the British and Dutch markets in the late 17th and 18th centuries, although they were later superseded by thinner cotton hangings and bed-covers. The large medallion motifs on this quilt suggest that it was probably intended for the Dutch market, as similar designs are known in other pieces from Dutch collections. The density and variety of the reds, blues and purples in this piece bear witness to the great skills of the Indian dyers who made it by a variety of time-consuming processes involving mordanting and resist-dyeing.\"}],\"details\":{\"EICname\":\"Quilt, Quilting\",\"place\":[\"India - Bombay/Suratt\"],\"finish\":[\"quilted\"],\"material\":[\"Cotton\"],\"dimensions\":\"small, midling, large\",\"market\":\"English\"},\"notes\":{\"notes\":\"Crill, Rosemary. Chintz : Indian textiles for the West London: V&A Publishing, 2008, Cat. No.37, p. 29, illus. p. 80.\",\"contemporary\":\"'London Post with Intelligence Foreign and Domestick', 22 July 1700\\r\\nCargoe of the Sarah Galley arrived from China the 20th July 1700 - Damasks 30, Ditto with Gold Flowers 10, Gelongs white and strip'd 430, Pelongs Nankeen 7, Quilts ditto, with Gold Flowers 8, Sattins ditto 284, Ditto with Gold Flowers 53, Velvets 118, Paintings on Pelongs 115 pieces, Ditto on Gauze 12200 Feet, Pictures on Paper 2413, Fans 65980, Fire Fans 424 pieces, screens 2 Pair, Scriptores 22, Large tables 83, Tea Tables 2848, Lacker'd Chests 266, Lacker'd Wares of divers sorts 6517 pieces, 106 Borax, 797 Cambogam, 45798 Copper, 358 Cloves, 250 Green Ginger, 112070 Pepper, 4353 Quicksliver, 16005 Raw Silk, 1322 Sago, 30063 Singlo Tea, 1163 pound weight of Bohee Tea, China Ware 146748 pieces, Jambee Canes 44394, Gold 129 ounces'.\\r\\n\\r\\n'The Bury and Norwich Post',  23 July 1806\\r\\nSale by Auction ... all the Household furniture and other effects belonging to Mrs Treice in Rushbrook Hall ... the Household Furniture consists of .... a very beautiful and real INDIA CHINTZ QUILT chintz and dimity festoon window curtains ....\"}}","title":"69","enclosures":[],"url":{"rel":"self","length":0,"href":"https://warwick.ac.uk/fac/arts/history/ghcc/eac/databases/textiles/catalogue/store/?selectedLetter=num#def-69"},"content":"","script":"","entryId":"094d43a2407dbf6301409c3dee830813","lastUpdated":1416143912224,"anchor":"def-69","parsedContentBody":"","id":"094d43a2407dbf6301409c3dee830813","categories":[],"publicationDate":1416143912224,"authors":[{"name":"David Beck"}]},{"metadata":"{\"published\":true,\"details\":{\"EICname\":\"Chinquam\",\"place\":[\"China\"],\"material\":[\"Silk\"],\"market\":\"English\"}}","title":"7","enclosures":[],"url":{"rel":"self","length":0,"href":"https://warwick.ac.uk/fac/arts/history/ghcc/eac/databases/textiles/catalogue/store/?selectedLetter=num#def-7"},"content":"","script":"","entryId":"094d43a24073561e01407821502942de","lastUpdated":1376580098000,"anchor":"def-7","parsedContentBody":"","id":"094d43a24073561e01407821502942de","categories":[],"publicationDate":1376580098000,"authors":[{"name":"David Beck"}]},{"metadata":"{\"published\":true,\"details\":{\"EICname\":\"Sovaguzzee\",\"place\":[\"India - Bombay/Suratt\"],\"material\":[\"Cotton\"],\"dimensions\":\"18 yd x 1 yd,\",\"market\":\"English\"},\"notes\":{\"notes\":\"Laarhoven: (Also Sawagesie, sovaguzzees, sawagesjes). Always described as an undecorated white cotton.\"}}","title":"70","enclosures":[],"url":{"rel":"self","length":0,"href":"https://warwick.ac.uk/fac/arts/history/ghcc/eac/databases/textiles/catalogue/store/?selectedLetter=num#def-70"},"content":"","script":"","entryId":"094d43a2407db20b01409c413ccf0ac1","lastUpdated":1411658283691,"anchor":"def-70","parsedContentBody":"","id":"094d43a2407db20b01409c413ccf0ac1","categories":[],"publicationDate":1411658283691,"authors":[{"name":"David Beck"}]},{"metadata":"{\"published\":true,\"details\":{\"EICname\":\"Ponabaguzee\",\"place\":[\"India - Bombay/Suratt\"],\"material\":[\"Cotton\"],\"dimensions\":\"18 yd x 1 yd, 18 ydx 1 1/8 yd,\",\"market\":\"English\"}}","title":"71","enclosures":[],"url":{"rel":"self","length":0,"href":"https://warwick.ac.uk/fac/arts/history/ghcc/eac/databases/textiles/catalogue/store/?selectedLetter=num#def-71"},"content":"","script":"","entryId":"094d43a2407db20b01409c42f1760aec","lastUpdated":1377011167000,"anchor":"def-71","parsedContentBody":"","id":"094d43a2407db20b01409c42f1760aec","categories":[],"publicationDate":1377011167000,"authors":[{"name":"David Beck"}]},{"metadata":"{\"published\":true,\"details\":{\"EICname\":\"Baguzee\",\"place\":[\"India - Bombay/Suratt\"],\"material\":[\"Cotton\"],\"dimensions\":\"18 yd x 1 1/4 yd,\",\"market\":\"English\"}}","title":"72","enclosures":[],"url":{"rel":"self","length":0,"href":"https://warwick.ac.uk/fac/arts/history/ghcc/eac/databases/textiles/catalogue/store/?selectedLetter=num#def-72"},"content":"","script":"","entryId":"094d43a2407db20b01409c45ffef0b2d","lastUpdated":1377011367000,"anchor":"def-72","parsedContentBody":"","id":"094d43a2407db20b01409c45ffef0b2d","categories":[],"publicationDate":1377011367000,"authors":[{"name":"David Beck"}]},{"metadata":"{\"published\":true,\"details\":{\"EICname\":\"Savabaguzzee\",\"place\":[\"India - Bombay/Suratt\"],\"material\":[\"Cotton\"],\"dimensions\":\"18 yd x 1 1/2 yd,\",\"market\":\"English\"},\"notes\":{\"notes\":\"Wellington: Sauvaguzee, Saulganshi, Sauvagasi, Savesjes, Sauvezi 1) White cotton cloth form India. Also called Belazees, Sauvaguzes, Doutis from India (Savary, 2, 1482) 2) Type of calico, Gray or bleached cotton cloth from Indian (Wingate, 522).\"}}","title":"73","enclosures":[],"url":{"rel":"self","length":0,"href":"https://warwick.ac.uk/fac/arts/history/ghcc/eac/databases/textiles/catalogue/store/?selectedLetter=num#def-73"},"content":"","script":"","entryId":"094d43a2407db20b01409c47b7950b5e","lastUpdated":1413198101297,"anchor":"def-73","parsedContentBody":"","id":"094d43a2407db20b01409c47b7950b5e","categories":[],"publicationDate":1413198101297,"authors":[{"name":"David Beck"}]},{"metadata":"{\"published\":true,\"details\":{\"EICname\":\"Sallo\",\"place\":[\"India - Bombay/Suratt\"],\"dimensions\":\"? x 3/4 yd,\",\"market\":\"English\"},\"notes\":{\"notes\":\"Wellington: Sallowes, Sallo: 1) Good quality, fen muslin (Irwin,70) 2) plain white cotton fabric. Domestic use and re-export 17th c. Daccca (Chaudhuri, 501), 3) Salo: Plain weave or twill cotton fabric dyed red from India (Wingate, 521).\"}}","title":"74","enclosures":[],"url":{"rel":"self","length":0,"href":"https://warwick.ac.uk/fac/arts/history/ghcc/eac/databases/textiles/catalogue/store/?selectedLetter=num#def-74"},"content":"","script":"","entryId":"094d43a2407dbf6301409c493b5c0927","lastUpdated":1413198205316,"anchor":"def-74","parsedContentBody":"","id":"094d43a2407dbf6301409c493b5c0927","categories":[],"publicationDate":1413198205316,"authors":[{"name":"David Beck"}]},{"metadata":"{\"published\":true,\"details\":{\"EICname\":\"Sattin Culgee\",\"place\":[\"India - Bombay/Suratt\"],\"technique\":\"satin\",\"material\":[\"Cotton\"],\"dimensions\":\"? x 3/4 yd, ? x 1 yd\",\"market\":\"English\",\"colours\":[\"blue and green\",\"red\"]},\"notes\":{\"notes\":\"Florence Montgomery: A 'Culgee' is a rich figured silk worn as a turban or sash, hence a figured Indian silk. A 1696 definition reads 'There is two sorts of Indian Silk called Culgees, the one is Satten, the other is Taffety, they are stained with all sorts of colours. They are much used for Handkerchiefs, and for Lining of Beds, and for Gowns for both Men and Women; (OED). 'A Piece of White Culgee Satin, flowered with Blue, Scarlet, and Orange Colours' was advertised among stone goods in the London 'Post Man' (December 27, 1701). \",\"contemporary\":\"'Daily Advertiser', 28 November 1783 Lost on Saturday evening last, out of a Shop in Shoreditch, ten parcels of Silk and six of Soosey Handkerchiefs; among which in particular were eleven Field Culgees and eleven Lustring Checks, both of the largest size; a Dozen Lustring Checks, something similar; a Dozen of embos'd Sattinets, and eleven Barcelonas ; eleven printed Culgees with a purple ground, and six with a red ground ; eleven red and white plad checks, nine Pullicats, nine red and white Sooseys, with five other parcels of Sooseys, two of them Childrens Handkerchiefs. Whoever will bring them, or can give Information of them so as they may be had again, shall receive £5 reward for the whole or in proportion of any part, of Mr Sheppard, at the Swan tavern, Shoreditch, and no questons ask'd. If offer'd to pawn or sell, pray stop them, and give Notice as above, and you shall receive the same reward, or if already Pawn'd, your money again.\\r\\n\"}}","title":"75","enclosures":[],"url":{"rel":"self","length":0,"href":"https://warwick.ac.uk/fac/arts/history/ghcc/eac/databases/textiles/catalogue/store/?selectedLetter=num#def-75"},"content":"","script":"","entryId":"094d43a2407db20b01409c4b1c8c0bb5","lastUpdated":1414751388957,"anchor":"def-75","parsedContentBody":"","id":"094d43a2407db20b01409c4b1c8c0bb5","categories":[],"publicationDate":1414751388957,"authors":[{"name":"David Beck"}]},{"metadata":"{\"published\":true,\"details\":{\"EICname\":\"Tanna Stuff\",\"place\":[\"India - Bombay/Suratt\"],\"placeprod\":\"Tanna?\",\"material\":[\"Cotton\"],\"market\":\"English\",\"colours\":[\"various\"],\"pattern\":[\"striped\"]}}","title":"76","enclosures":[],"url":{"rel":"self","length":0,"href":"https://warwick.ac.uk/fac/arts/history/ghcc/eac/databases/textiles/catalogue/store/?selectedLetter=num#def-76"},"content":"","script":"","entryId":"094d43a2407db20b01409c4f7bd40c31","lastUpdated":1377011989000,"anchor":"def-76","parsedContentBody":"","id":"094d43a2407db20b01409c4f7bd40c31","categories":[],"publicationDate":1377011989000,"authors":[{"name":"David Beck"}]},{"metadata":"{\"published\":true,\"details\":{\"EICname\":\"Tapseil\",\"place\":[\"India - Bombay/Suratt\"],\"dimensions\":\"narrow, broad,\",\"market\":\"English\"},\"notes\":{\"notes\":\"Laarhoven: (Also Taffachellas, Taffechille, Tapseels, Topseiles), Silk and cotton, name derived from Arabic taffsjilah. The came in narrow and broad varieties. Many were cheap striped cloths of a mixture of cotton and silk, patterned in the look and much in demand by salve traders in the archipelago, The price depend don the quality which could vary considerably. The Golconda varieties were durable, but expensive. White and red taffachelas from Narsapur were very popular in the early 17th c. ... The gingham taffechelas were popular in Japan. Spinning World: (also okushima) a fine-quality calico. It could however be produced from cotton yarn or from cotton and silk mixed harm. Wellington: Tapsel: 1) Coarse striped cotton cloth usually blue. Bengal (Savary, 2, 1675) 2) Striped, medium quality West African trade, Gujarat 17-18th c. (Chaudhuri, 502).\"}}","title":"77","enclosures":[],"url":{"rel":"self","length":0,"href":"https://warwick.ac.uk/fac/arts/history/ghcc/eac/databases/textiles/catalogue/store/?selectedLetter=num#def-77"},"content":"","script":"","entryId":"094d43a2407db20b01409c67258f0e86","lastUpdated":1413197772958,"anchor":"def-77","parsedContentBody":"","id":"094d43a2407db20b01409c67258f0e86","categories":[],"publicationDate":1413197772958,"authors":[{"name":"David Beck"}]},{"metadata":"{\"published\":true,\"details\":{\"EICname\":\"Anjengo cloth\",\"place\":[\"India - Bombay/Suratt\"],\"placeprod\":\"Anjengo\",\"material\":[\"Cotton\"],\"dimensions\":\"14 yd x 1 yd, 18 yd x 1-1 1/16 yd,\",\"market\":\"English\",\"colours\":[\"blue\",\"brown\",\"red\",\"white\"]}}","title":"78","enclosures":[],"url":{"rel":"self","length":0,"href":"https://warwick.ac.uk/fac/arts/history/ghcc/eac/databases/textiles/catalogue/store/?selectedLetter=num#def-78"},"content":"","script":"","entryId":"094d43a2407db20b01409c69a57d0ec5","lastUpdated":1377013704000,"anchor":"def-78","parsedContentBody":"","id":"094d43a2407db20b01409c69a57d0ec5","categories":[],"publicationDate":1377013704000,"authors":[{"name":"David Beck"}]},{"metadata":"{\"published\":true,\"details\":{\"EICname\":\"Callico (Calico)\",\"place\":[\"India - Bombay/Suratt\"],\"finish\":[\"plain\"],\"material\":[\"Cotton\"],\"market\":\"English\",\"colours\":[\"white\"],\"pattern\":[\"plain\"]},\"notes\":{\"notes\":\"Florence Montgomery: Cotton cloth of many grades and varieties first made in India and alter in the West. Thinas Sheraton gives a bros definition in his Encyclopedia 1804-7 ' In commerce a sort of cloth resembling linens made of cotton. The name is taken from that of Calicout, the first place at which the Portuguse landed when they discovered the Indian Trade .. Calicoes are of different kinds, plain, printed, stained, dyed, chintz, muslins, and the like, all included under the general denomination of calicoes. Some of them are painted with various flowers of different colours, others are not stained, but have a stripe of gold and silver quirt through the piece, and at each end is fixed a tissue of gold, silver and silk intermixed with flowers. The printing of calicoes was first set on foot in London about 1676, and has long been a most important article of commerce' (p.235). See further for late 17th c. uses of calico in North America.\",\"contemporary\":\"Derby Mercury, 22 August 1766\\r\\nThursday Night a Hearse was stopped on the Deptford Road by some Revenue Officers, on an information, when a Seizure of Indian Muslns, Cotton and Callicoes was made, to the value of several Hundred Pounds.\\r\\n\"}}","title":"79","enclosures":[],"url":{"rel":"self","length":0,"href":"https://warwick.ac.uk/fac/arts/history/ghcc/eac/databases/textiles/catalogue/store/?selectedLetter=num#def-79"},"content":"","script":"","entryId":"094d43a2407dbf6301409c6fe6c20d56","lastUpdated":1414751518609,"anchor":"def-79","parsedContentBody":"","id":"094d43a2407dbf6301409c6fe6c20d56","categories":[],"publicationDate":1414751518609,"authors":[{"name":"David Beck"}]},{"metadata":"{\"published\":true,\"details\":{\"EICname\":\"Chagrin\",\"names\":\"Shagareen\",\"place\":[\"China\"],\"finish\":[\"plain\"],\"material\":[\"Silk\"],\"dimensions\":\"18 yd x ?\",\"market\":\"English\",\"colours\":[\"ash\",\"black\",\"blue, Mazareen\",\"blue, sky\",\"cloth\",\"green\",\"jonquil\",\"little specks of all usefull colours\"]}}","title":"8","enclosures":[],"url":{"rel":"self","length":0,"href":"https://warwick.ac.uk/fac/arts/history/ghcc/eac/databases/textiles/catalogue/store/?selectedLetter=num#def-8"},"content":"","script":"","entryId":"094d43a24073538f0140782cbe394397","lastUpdated":1376580173000,"anchor":"def-8","parsedContentBody":"","id":"094d43a24073538f0140782cbe394397","categories":[],"publicationDate":1376580173000,"authors":[{"name":"David Beck"}]},{"metadata":"{\"published\":true,\"details\":{\"EICname\":\"Abrohawa\",\"place\":[\"India - Bengal\"],\"material\":[\"Cotton\"],\"market\":\"English\"}}","title":"80","enclosures":[],"url":{"rel":"self","length":0,"href":"https://warwick.ac.uk/fac/arts/history/ghcc/eac/databases/textiles/catalogue/store/?selectedLetter=num#def-80"},"content":"","script":"","entryId":"094d43a2407dbf63014096b267133107","lastUpdated":1376917808000,"anchor":"def-80","parsedContentBody":"","id":"094d43a2407dbf63014096b267133107","categories":[],"publicationDate":1376917808000,"authors":[{"name":"David Beck"}]},{"metadata":"{\"published\":true,\"details\":{\"EICname\":\"Alliballee\",\"place\":[\"India - Bengal\"],\"material\":[\"Cotton\"],\"market\":\"English\"},\"notes\":{\"notes\":\"Wellington: Allibalies, Allibatis, Alliabally, Allibali: 1) Very fine muslin, (Irwin, 58), ( 2) Type of East indian plain, brocaded to embroidered cotton, Some had selvedge made with gold thread (Wingate, 13).\"}}","title":"81","enclosures":[],"url":{"rel":"self","length":0,"href":"https://warwick.ac.uk/fac/arts/history/ghcc/eac/databases/textiles/catalogue/store/?selectedLetter=num#def-81"},"content":"","script":"","entryId":"094d43a2407dbf63014096bad9f031e2","lastUpdated":1412769720008,"anchor":"def-81","parsedContentBody":"","id":"094d43a2407dbf63014096bad9f031e2","categories":[],"publicationDate":1412769720008,"authors":[{"name":"David Beck"}]},{"metadata":"{\"published\":true,\"details\":{\"EICname\":\"Alibannee\",\"place\":[\"India - Bengal\"],\"material\":[\"Cotton\"],\"market\":\"English\",\"colours\":[\"bright\",\"lively\",\"lively, red, black and white etc\"],\"pattern\":[\"striped\"]},\"notes\":{\"notes\":\"Wellington: Alibanies, Allibannees, Allibanis: 1) Cotton cloth carried to Holland from India (Savary 1, 66) 2) Mixed silk and cotton, Probably striped, superior (Irwin, 58) 3) Mixed cotton and silk, probably striped, Medium to superior qua lit. Fashionwear and re-export trade Dacca, 17-18th centuries (Chaudhuri, 503).\",\"contemporary\":\"The Times 20 August 1793, East India Muslins and Suffolk Hemp Linen warehouse\\r\\nMiddleton, Innes and Jolley, no 192 Fleet street, Corner of Chancery Lane, have just cleared from the East India Company Sale several hundred bales of Muslins consisting of every kind of Plain, Jaconet, Mull, Aliballee and decca Muslins, Checks, Stripes, Work'd and Japan ditto,  Ballasore and Decca Handkerchiefs etc etc which they are enabled to sell much cheaprer than evey before offered to the public. \\r\\n'Trewman's Exeter Flying Post or Plymouth and Cornish Advertiser' 9 April 1812. General Observations on Fashion and Dress from La Belle Assemblee ... the  Alibala and thicker sort of  India muslins than those worn of an evening are most prevelant at friendly meetings or social house parties; these sarsnets are generally ornamented with feather gymp and the muslins with lace; ....... trains and demi-trains are now only seen in full dress.\\r\\n\"}}","title":"82","enclosures":[],"url":{"rel":"self","length":0,"href":"https://warwick.ac.uk/fac/arts/history/ghcc/eac/databases/textiles/catalogue/store/?selectedLetter=num#def-82"},"content":"","script":"","entryId":"094d43a2407dbf63014096bce20a3214","lastUpdated":1414750261002,"anchor":"def-82","parsedContentBody":"","id":"094d43a2407dbf63014096bce20a3214","categories":[],"publicationDate":1414750261002,"authors":[{"name":"David Beck"}]},{"metadata":"{\"published\":true,\"details\":{\"EICname\":\"Atchabanny\",\"names\":\"Atchabannee?\",\"place\":[\"India - Bengal\"],\"material\":[\"Cotton\"],\"market\":\"English\"},\"notes\":{\"notes\":\"Wellington: Atchiabanes: 1) Plain white, Coarse quality. Domestic and general use, Bengal. 18th c. (Chaudhuri, 503).\"}}","title":"83","enclosures":[],"url":{"rel":"self","length":0,"href":"https://warwick.ac.uk/fac/arts/history/ghcc/eac/databases/textiles/catalogue/store/?selectedLetter=num#def-83"},"content":"","script":"","entryId":"094d43a2407db20b014096be0e9f34fe","lastUpdated":1413195416812,"anchor":"def-83","parsedContentBody":"","id":"094d43a2407db20b014096be0e9f34fe","categories":[],"publicationDate":1413195416812,"authors":[{"name":"David Beck"}]},{"metadata":"{\"published\":true,\"details\":{\"EICname\":\"Apron\",\"place\":[\"India - Bengal\"],\"material\":[\"Cotton\"],\"dimensions\":\"1 1/8 yd\",\"market\":\"English\",\"pattern\":[\"flowered\"]}}","title":"84","enclosures":[],"url":{"rel":"self","length":0,"href":"https://warwick.ac.uk/fac/arts/history/ghcc/eac/databases/textiles/catalogue/store/?selectedLetter=num#def-84"},"content":"","script":"","entryId":"094d43a2407dbf63014096c34b4a32b4","lastUpdated":1376918915000,"anchor":"def-84","parsedContentBody":"","id":"094d43a2407dbf63014096c34b4a32b4","categories":[],"publicationDate":1376918915000,"authors":[{"name":"David Beck"}]},{"metadata":"{\"published\":true,\"image\":[{\"url\":\"2006AH0893_jpg_ds.jpg\"}],\"details\":{\"EICname\":\"Bandano (Bandanno?)\",\"names\":\"pl. Bandanoes\",\"place\":[\"India - Bengal\"],\"material\":[\"Cotton\"],\"market\":\"English\"},\"notes\":{\"notes\":\"Wellington: Bandannes: Tie dyed silk handkerchiefs (Murphy, 169)\"}}","title":"85","enclosures":[],"url":{"rel":"self","length":0,"href":"https://warwick.ac.uk/fac/arts/history/ghcc/eac/databases/textiles/catalogue/store/?selectedLetter=num#def-85"},"content":"","script":"","entryId":"094d43a2407db20b014096c8067c35f3","lastUpdated":1415633096912,"anchor":"def-85","parsedContentBody":"","id":"094d43a2407db20b014096c8067c35f3","categories":[],"publicationDate":1415633096912,"authors":[{"name":"David Beck"}]},{"metadata":"{\"published\":true,\"details\":{\"EICname\":\"Brouch\",\"names\":\"pl. Brouches\",\"place\":[\"India - Bengal\"],\"market\":\"English\"}}","title":"86","enclosures":[],"url":{"rel":"self","length":0,"href":"https://warwick.ac.uk/fac/arts/history/ghcc/eac/databases/textiles/catalogue/store/?selectedLetter=num#def-86"},"content":"","script":"","entryId":"094d43a2407db20b014096d270de36ee","lastUpdated":1376919908000,"anchor":"def-86","parsedContentBody":"","id":"094d43a2407db20b014096d270de36ee","categories":[],"publicationDate":1376919908000,"authors":[{"name":"David Beck"}]},{"metadata":"{\"published\":true,\"details\":{\"EICname\":\"Addaty\",\"names\":\"pl. Addaties\",\"place\":[\"India - Bengal\"],\"material\":[\"Cotton\"],\"market\":\"English\"},\"notes\":{\"notes\":\"some ordered \\\"with gold lists\\\".\\r\\nLaarhoven: Adati, Adatie, Adathays, Adathalies, Addethays: cototn, mulsins, made in dacc regions and Pondicherry. The colours ar eunknown, except that they were bright. The adati is one of approximately 20 muslins. Irwin (1966:49) lists 12 muslins in order of fineness in which adatis ranks seventh. The majority were shipped to Europe. Max Heiden is the only compiler tom refer to an anti that was not highly esteemed.,it had been produced in Pondicherry. The finest and most expensive adatis came from Dacca and had been famous in Roman times. European demand appears to have prompted a wider range of sizes and varieties. They were often described as tightly woven or a closely packed cloth.\\r\\nWelllington: Adatays, Addatis, Addaties, Adathaies, Adatais: 1) Muslin or very fine and bright cotton. The best came from Bengal (Savary,1,22) 2) Plain muslin, usually fine quality from Dacca (Irwin, 57). 3) Plain white muslin, medium to fine quality, fashion wear from Dacca in 17th and 18th centuries (Chaudhuri, 503) 4) Fine cotton muslin from India, best grades from Bengal (Wingate, 6).\\r\\nDTG&C: abdaties: a cototn cloth imported from Bengal and included by Milburn in his list of Indian piece goods (Yule and Burnell 1886, pd.1996). It was defined as a muslin [Acts 1700]. It has not been noted in shops, although it may well have been present under the generic name muslin. OED earliest use 1687.\"}}","title":"87","enclosures":[],"url":{"rel":"self","length":0,"href":"https://warwick.ac.uk/fac/arts/history/ghcc/eac/databases/textiles/catalogue/store/?selectedLetter=num#def-87"},"content":"","script":"","entryId":"094d43a2407db20b014096b12c5033c9","lastUpdated":1413203346597,"anchor":"def-87","parsedContentBody":"","id":"094d43a2407db20b014096b12c5033c9","categories":[],"publicationDate":1413203346597,"authors":[{"name":"David Beck"}]},{"metadata":"{\"published\":true,\"image\":[{\"url\":\"Carridaryl1116009.JPG\",\"imgnotes\":\"Swedish East India Company Sales Catalog (1735), containing goods brought home by the ship Ulrica Elenora. Images from copy with textile samples, held in archive of the Danish West Indian Company (Vestindisk-Guineisk Kompagni), in the series: Charles Barringtons med Grevinden af Laurwigen hjemførte arkiv, 1725-1738, Volume 219, Danish National Archive (Rigsarkivet), Copenhagen. \"},{\"url\":\"Ostindisk tekstil fra VgK 121.jpg\",\"imgnotes\":\"No 3 Cherederees from Danish West India and Guinea Company, box 121 held in archive of the Danish West Indian Company (Vestindisk-Guineisk Kompagni), Danish National Archive (Rigsarkivet), Copenhagen. \"}],\"details\":{\"EICname\":\"Charridary (Charridarry?)\",\"names\":\"pl. Charridaries (Charridarries?), Charridary Sanno\",\"place\":[\"India - Bengal\"],\"material\":[\"Cotton\"],\"colours\":[\"blue\",\"red\",\"various\"],\"pattern\":[\"striped\",\"checked\"]},\"notes\":{\"notes\":\"Wellington: Charadaries, Carridaires: Striped or chequered woven cloth, probably mixed with silk and cotton (Irwin, 61).\"}}","title":"88","enclosures":[],"url":{"rel":"self","length":0,"href":"https://warwick.ac.uk/fac/arts/history/ghcc/eac/databases/textiles/catalogue/store/?selectedLetter=num#def-88"},"content":"","script":"","entryId":"094d43a2407db20b014096da27553788","lastUpdated":1416143011223,"anchor":"def-88","parsedContentBody":"","id":"094d43a2407db20b014096da27553788","categories":[],"publicationDate":1416143011223,"authors":[{"name":"David Beck"}]},{"metadata":"{\"published\":true,\"details\":{\"EICname\":\"Chinachure\",\"place\":[\"India - Bengal\"],\"material\":[\"Cotton\"],\"market\":\"English\",\"colours\":[\"various\"],\"pattern\":[\"patterned\"]}}","title":"89","enclosures":[],"url":{"rel":"self","length":0,"href":"https://warwick.ac.uk/fac/arts/history/ghcc/eac/databases/textiles/catalogue/store/?selectedLetter=num#def-89"},"content":"","script":"","entryId":"094d43a2407db20b014096ddd0af37da","lastUpdated":1376920653000,"anchor":"def-89","parsedContentBody":"","id":"094d43a2407db20b014096ddd0af37da","categories":[],"publicationDate":1376920653000,"authors":[{"name":"David Beck"}]},{"metadata":"{\"published\":true,\"details\":{\"EICname\":\"Poise\",\"names\":\"Poisee\",\"place\":[\"China\"],\"finish\":[\"painted\"],\"material\":[\"Silk\"],\"dimensions\":\"7 1/2 yd x ?, 9 yd x ?, 15 yd x ?, 15 yd x 3/4 yd, 18 yd x ?, 18 yd x 3/4 yd,\",\"market\":\"English, Swedish\",\"colours\":[\"ash\",\"ash and lemon, changeable\",\"ash ground and black flowers\",\"ash various colours, loan\",\"ash, dark\",\"black\",\"blue\",\"blue and white\",\"blue, dark\",\"blue, deep and white\",\"blue, Mazareen\",\"blue, Mazareen grounds and blue, sky flowers\",\"blue, Mazareen grounds and white flowers\",\"blue, Mazareen, light\",\"blue, sky\",\"blue, sky and lemon, changeable\",\"blue, sky and white, changeable\",\"blue, sky deep and midling, loan\",\"blue, sky full\",\"blue, sky ground and lemon flowers\",\"blue, sky ground and blue, Mazareen flowers\",\"blue, sky grounds and white flowers\",\"brown\",\"buff\",\"changeable\",\"cherry\",\"cherry & white\",\"cherry and deep pink\",\"cherry and white, changeable\",\"cherry and yellow, changeable\",\"cherry full\",\"cherry grounds and white flowers\",\"cherry, loan\",\"cloth\",\"cloth and ash\",\"cloth and lemon, changeable\",\"cloth and light ash, changeable\",\"cloth and sky, changeable\",\"cloth colours and white\",\"cloth colours and white flowers\",\"cloth various colours, loan\",\"cloth, light\",\"cloth, light and white\",\"cloth, very light\",\"crimson\",\"crimson & white\",\"crimson grounds and green flowers\",\"crimson grounds and white flowers\",\"feuillemorte\",\"green\",\"green & white\",\"green and white, changeable\",\"green grounds and white flowers\",\"green, dark\",\"green, sea\",\"jonquil\",\"jonquil, light\",\"jonquil, very light\",\"lively\",\"lively, gay and black&white and white&black\",\"orange & white\",\"pearl\",\"pearl and white\",\"pearl grounds and black flowers\",\"pink\",\"pink and white\",\"pink ground and white flowers\",\"pink, deep\",\"pink, pale\",\"purple in grain\",\"scarlet\",\"scarlet and white\",\"scarlet and yellow\",\"scarlet grounds and white flowers\",\"straw\",\"straw and white\",\"straw grounds and white flowers\",\"unspecified,loan\",\"various\",\"various, changeable\",\"white\",\"white ground and black flowers\",\"yellow\",\"yellow & white\",\"yellow and green\",\"Yellow and white, changeable\",\"yellow few pale\",\"yellow grounds and blue flowers\",\"yellow grounds and white flowers\",\"yellow, deep\",\"yellow, loan\"],\"pattern\":[\"plain\",\"patterned\",\"striped\",\"flowered\",\"striped and flowered\",\"striped and sprigged\"]},\"notes\":{\"notes\":\"Florence Montgomery: Sprigged or flowered satin, painted or printed in China (Lee-Whitman, p.32ff), p.326.\"}}","title":"9","enclosures":[],"url":{"rel":"self","length":0,"href":"https://warwick.ac.uk/fac/arts/history/ghcc/eac/databases/textiles/catalogue/store/?selectedLetter=num#def-9"},"content":"","script":"","entryId":"094d43a24073561e01407867b8c8496d","lastUpdated":1411654256667,"anchor":"def-9","parsedContentBody":"","id":"094d43a24073561e01407867b8c8496d","categories":[],"publicationDate":1411654256667,"authors":[{"name":"David Beck"}]},{"metadata":"{\"published\":true,\"details\":{\"EICname\":\"Chowtar\",\"place\":[\"India - Bengal\"],\"material\":[\"Cotton\"],\"dimensions\":\"? x 1 1/4 yd, 24 cov x ?, 26 cov X ?, 30 cov X ?, 32 cov x ?,\",\"market\":\"English\"},\"notes\":{\"notes\":\"some Chowtars of \\\"midling fineness\\\" and 1 1/4 yd wide, ordered \\\"for sheets\\\"\\r\\nsome ordered \\\"double threaded both ways, without Congee\\\".\\r\\nLaarhoven: Chiauter, chauters, chowters, sjoutharis. Cootn made i Agra, Deriaadis and Sirpur, The ame was used in general to descried the cottons in the markets north of Surat. Chauter was a good quality cloth, entirely the or blue/black. It was used as bedspread material and shirting. Sometimes a chauter was indicated as a derriabadis cloth which was produced in the little town of Barab Banki in Dariyabad, Sinilarly the cloth called kerriabadis or Khairabad from Sirpur.\"}}","title":"90","enclosures":[],"url":{"rel":"self","length":0,"href":"https://warwick.ac.uk/fac/arts/history/ghcc/eac/databases/textiles/catalogue/store/?selectedLetter=num#def-90"},"content":"","script":"","entryId":"094d43a2407dbf63014096f56f4a3769","lastUpdated":1413202763026,"anchor":"def-90","parsedContentBody":"","id":"094d43a2407dbf63014096f56f4a3769","categories":[],"publicationDate":1413202763026,"authors":[{"name":"David Beck"}]},{"metadata":"{\"published\":true,\"details\":{\"EICname\":\"Chuckla\",\"names\":\"pl. Chucklaes\",\"place\":[\"India - Bengal\"],\"material\":[\"Cotton\"],\"dimensions\":\"25 yd x 7/8 yd, 26 yd x 1 yd,\",\"market\":\"English\",\"colours\":[\"bright various, all with red stripes\",\"green and red\",\"green and yellow\",\"lively\",\"purple and red\",\"purple and yellow\",\"red and yellow\"],\"pattern\":[\"striped\"]},\"notes\":{\"notes\":\"Chucklas, Chuclaes: 1) Striped silk and cotton fabric (Irwin, 62). 2) Mixed cotton and silk fabric, striped, fine quality fashion wear and re-export from Bengal (Chaudhuri, 503).\"}}","title":"91","enclosures":[],"url":{"rel":"self","length":0,"href":"https://warwick.ac.uk/fac/arts/history/ghcc/eac/databases/textiles/catalogue/store/?selectedLetter=num#def-91"},"content":"","script":"","entryId":"094d43a2407db20b014096f9d3683ad5","lastUpdated":1412773358567,"anchor":"def-91","parsedContentBody":"","id":"094d43a2407db20b014096f9d3683ad5","categories":[],"publicationDate":1412773358567,"authors":[{"name":"David Beck"}]},{"metadata":"{\"published\":true,\"details\":{\"EICname\":\"Chanderbanny\",\"names\":\"pl. Chanderbannies, Chanderbannees?\",\"place\":[\"India - Bengal\"],\"material\":[\"Cotton\"],\"market\":\"English\",\"colours\":[\"various\"]}}","title":"92","enclosures":[],"url":{"rel":"self","length":0,"href":"https://warwick.ac.uk/fac/arts/history/ghcc/eac/databases/textiles/catalogue/store/?selectedLetter=num#def-92"},"content":"","script":"","entryId":"094d43a2407dbf63014096fbd5df3831","lastUpdated":1376922621000,"anchor":"def-92","parsedContentBody":"","id":"094d43a2407dbf63014096fbd5df3831","categories":[],"publicationDate":1376922621000,"authors":[{"name":"David Beck"}]},{"metadata":"{\"published\":true,\"image\":[{\"url\":\"Cherconna\",\"viewable\":\"http://www.tmoi.org.uk/?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage-ask.tpl&product_id=419&category_id=234\",\"imgnotes\":\"From Forbes Watson, Textile Manufactures of india, harris Museum, Preston. No. 459: Cotton/Cherconna\\r\\nExtra Information: Cotton. Chunderkhana muslin, (2d quality) or handkerchief cloth. Without borders. Of good quality.\\r\\n\\r\\n\"}],\"details\":{\"EICname\":\"Cherconna\",\"names\":\"pl. Cherconnaes\",\"place\":[\"India - Bengal\"],\"material\":[\"Cotton\"],\"market\":\"English\",\"colours\":[\"red&white\",\"various\"]},\"notes\":{\"notes\":\"Wellington: Cherconnee, Cherconnaes; 1) Chuquelas silk and cotton fabric, (Savary, 1,717). 2) Mixed cotton and silk striped with checks, Bengal (Chaudhhuri, 503). 3) Striped or chequered cloth of mixed silk and cotton (Irwin, 61).\"}}","title":"93","enclosures":[],"url":{"rel":"self","length":0,"href":"https://warwick.ac.uk/fac/arts/history/ghcc/eac/databases/textiles/catalogue/store/?selectedLetter=num#def-93"},"content":"","script":"","entryId":"094d43a2407db20b014096dbd37037a4","lastUpdated":1412773122830,"anchor":"def-93","parsedContentBody":"","id":"094d43a2407db20b014096dbd37037a4","categories":[],"publicationDate":1412773122830,"authors":[{"name":"David Beck"}]},{"metadata":"{\"published\":true,\"image\":[{\"url\":\"Cossae1116024.JPG\",\"imgnotes\":\"Swedish East India Company Sales Catalog (1735), containing goods brought home by the ship Ulrica Elenora. Images from copy with textile samples, held in archive of the Danish West Indian Company (Vestindisk-Guineisk Kompagni), in the series: Charles Barringtons med Grevinden af Laurwigen hjemførte arkiv, 1725-1738, Volume 219, Danish National Archive (Rigsarkivet), Copenhagen. \"},{\"url\":\"COSSAE-2negotiationprotokoll 1116 031.JPG\",\"imgnotes\":\"Swedish East India Company Sales Catalog (1735), containing goods brought home by the ship Ulrica Elenora. Images from copy with textile samples, held in archive of the Danish West Indian Company (Vestindisk-Guineisk Kompagni), in the series: Charles Barringtons med Grevinden af Laurwigen hjemførte arkiv, 1725-1738, Volume 219, Danish National Archive (Rigsarkivet), Copenhagen. \"}],\"details\":{\"EICname\":\"Cossae\",\"place\":[\"India - Bengal\"],\"placeprod\":\"Patna, Maulda, Orrua, Cogmarria, Serry, Chartpoor, Burron, Comercollee, Jugdea, Jungall, Bowally, Bowlia, Busna,\",\"finish\":[\"embroidered\"],\"material\":[\"Cotton\"],\"dimensions\":\"1 1/8 yd x 1 1/2 yd, 13 1/2 yd x 1 1/8 yd, 16 yd x 7/8 yd, 20 yd x 1 yd, 20 yd x 1 1/8 yd, 20 cov x 2 cov, 32 cov x 7/8 yd, 40 cov x 1 yd, 40 cov x 1 1/8-3/16 yd, 40 cov x 1 3/8 yd, 40 cov x 1 1/2 yd, 40 cov x 2 cov, 40 cov x 2 1/2 cov, ? x 3 cov,\",\"market\":\"English\",\"colours\":[\"white\"],\"pattern\":[\"flowered\",\"sprigged\"]},\"notes\":{\"notes\":\"some Cossaes (the shortest lengths) ordered \\\"for aprons\\\". Many ordered with \\\"gold heads\\\"\\r\\nSome Burron Cossaess ordered \\\"thick, for printing\\\".\\r\\nLaarhoven: Cotton muslin, also called cassa, kasse, gassa, and lhasa; made inMalda, Dacca and Hughli. Cassas were soft, smooth and loosely woven cloths because of the unspun weft and warp threads. It was thin but strong and woven just a little tighter than manny other muslins\"}}","title":"94","enclosures":[],"url":{"rel":"self","length":0,"href":"https://warwick.ac.uk/fac/arts/history/ghcc/eac/databases/textiles/catalogue/store/?selectedLetter=num#def-94"},"content":"","script":"","entryId":"094d43a2407db20b01409ca3343d13f0","lastUpdated":1416304053123,"anchor":"def-94","parsedContentBody":"","id":"094d43a2407db20b01409ca3343d13f0","categories":[],"publicationDate":1416304053123,"authors":[{"name":"David Beck"}]},{"metadata":"{\"published\":true,\"details\":{\"EICname\":\"Coupe\",\"place\":[\"India - Bengal\"],\"market\":\"English\"},\"notes\":{\"notes\":\"Wellington: Coopees: Plain white. Medium to superior quality. Bengal (Chaudhuri, 5030\"}}","title":"95","enclosures":[],"url":{"rel":"self","length":0,"href":"https://warwick.ac.uk/fac/arts/history/ghcc/eac/databases/textiles/catalogue/store/?selectedLetter=num#def-95"},"content":"","script":"","entryId":"094d43a2407db20b01409ca54013141e","lastUpdated":1412773444616,"anchor":"def-95","parsedContentBody":"","id":"094d43a2407db20b01409ca54013141e","categories":[],"publicationDate":1412773444616,"authors":[{"name":"David Beck"}]},{"metadata":"{\"published\":true,\"details\":{\"EICname\":\"Cushta\",\"names\":\"pl. Cushtaes\",\"place\":[\"India - Bengal\"],\"market\":\"English\"},\"notes\":{\"notes\":\"Wellington: 1) Striped or chequered cloth, possibly silk and cotton (Irwin, 62.) 2) Striped blue and white cotton fabric. Medium to superior quality. lCothing and re-export trade. Bengal 18th c. (Chaudhuri, 503).\"}}","title":"96","enclosures":[],"url":{"rel":"self","length":0,"href":"https://warwick.ac.uk/fac/arts/history/ghcc/eac/databases/textiles/catalogue/store/?selectedLetter=num#def-96"},"content":"","script":"","entryId":"094d43a2407dbf6301409ca6003a126a","lastUpdated":1412772989038,"anchor":"def-96","parsedContentBody":"","id":"094d43a2407dbf6301409ca6003a126a","categories":[],"publicationDate":1412772989038,"authors":[{"name":"David Beck"}]},{"metadata":"{\"published\":true,\"details\":{\"EICname\":\"Dannidar\",\"place\":[\"India - Bengal\"],\"placeprod\":\"Cossimbuzar\",\"dimensions\":\"30 cov x 1 1/2 cov\",\"market\":\"English\",\"colours\":[\"cloth\"]}}","title":"97","enclosures":[],"url":{"rel":"self","length":0,"href":"https://warwick.ac.uk/fac/arts/history/ghcc/eac/databases/textiles/catalogue/store/?selectedLetter=num#def-97"},"content":"","script":"","entryId":"094d43a2407db20b01409ca8424f1467","lastUpdated":1377017807000,"anchor":"def-97","parsedContentBody":"","id":"094d43a2407db20b01409ca8424f1467","categories":[],"publicationDate":1377017807000,"authors":[{"name":"David Beck"}]},{"metadata":"{\"published\":true,\"image\":[{\"url\":\"Doosootienegotiationprotokoll1116038.JPG\",\"imgnotes\":\"Swedish East India Company Sales Catalog (1735), containing goods brought home by the ship Ulrica Elenora. Images from copy with textile samples, held in archive of the Danish West Indian Company (Vestindisk-Guineisk Kompagni), in the series: Charles Barringtons med Grevinden af Laurwigen hjemførte arkiv, 1725-1738, Volume 219, Danish National Archive (Rigsarkivet), Copenhagen. \"}],\"details\":{\"EICname\":\"Doosootie\",\"names\":\"Doosooty?\",\"place\":[\"India - Bengal\"],\"dimensions\":\"15 yd x 1 1/8 yd, 15 yd x 1 1/2 yd,\",\"market\":\"English\",\"colours\":[\"whitened\"]},\"notes\":{\"notes\":\"some Doosooties ordered \\\"thick, for sheets\\\". Wellington: Doussoutis, Doussoutin, Doussoutis:, Dosooties: Palin white muslin. Medium fine and superfine quality. Fashionwear and re-export trade. Bengal 18th c. (Chaudhuri, 504).\"}}","title":"98","enclosures":[],"url":{"rel":"self","length":0,"href":"https://warwick.ac.uk/fac/arts/history/ghcc/eac/databases/textiles/catalogue/store/?selectedLetter=num#def-98"},"content":"","script":"","entryId":"094d43a2407db20b01409cb65e861591","lastUpdated":1416145029334,"anchor":"def-98","parsedContentBody":"","id":"094d43a2407db20b01409cb65e861591","categories":[],"publicationDate":1416145029334,"authors":[{"name":"David Beck"}]},{"metadata":"{\"published\":true,\"details\":{\"EICname\":\"Dysooksoy\",\"place\":[\"India - Bengal\"],\"market\":\"English\"},\"notes\":{\"notes\":\"Wellington: Desookey: Indian cotton fabric (Wingate, 187).\"}}","title":"99","enclosures":[],"url":{"rel":"self","length":0,"href":"https://warwick.ac.uk/fac/arts/history/ghcc/eac/databases/textiles/catalogue/store/?selectedLetter=num#def-99"},"content":"","script":"","entryId":"094d43a2407dbf6301409cbb15951412","lastUpdated":1412773224474,"anchor":"def-99","parsedContentBody":"","id":"094d43a2407dbf6301409cbb15951412","categories":[],"publicationDate":1412773224474,"authors":[{"name":"David Beck"}]}],"authors":[{"name":"David Beck"}]}