Bouldering for Beginners: Warwick Sport

https://warwick.ac.uk/services/sport/content-hub/feed?newsItem=8ac672c4987b542401988387684a2265

Pull through page title

Date

Pull through abstract and format in bold and large font

In this guide, we spoke with Ciara O’Leary, Climbing Wall Duty Manager at Warwick Sport to talk through techniques, tips and the unspoken rules of bouldering. Whether you're stepping into the climbing centre for the first time or looking to level up your skills, you're in the right place.

1. What is bouldering?

Bouldering is a type of climbing that takes place on shorter walls without ropes or harnesses. Instead of relying on equipment to catch you, thick padded mats (called crash mats) cushion your landings. It’s all about solving climbing “problems” using your balance, strength, and creativity.

With lower walls and shorter climbs, bouldering is one of the most accessible ways to get into climbing. It’s great for both beginners and experienced climbers.

Transcript for 'What is bouldering?'

This is bouldering. The whole point of bouldering is you stick to one colour and climb all the way to the top. At Warwick Sport, any colour climb can be any difficulty. They're all individually graded using the V-grading system. Some climbs are easy, some climbs are hard — and everyone decides how hard they want to try.

Whether you're warming up or getting into a project during your session, you climb up, you have to get two hands on the top hold — and then you climb down using all the colours.

2. How to read bouldering routes

Every climb is called a “problem” (some may refer to it as a “project” too). The challenge is to figure out how to complete it using only certain holds. Each problem is colour-coded and graded by difficulty, using the V-grade system. At Warwick Sport, problems start at VB (beginner), then progress to V0, V1, V2, and up.

Look for two silver discs that mark the starting holds, both hands go here unless stated otherwise. The finish hold is also clearly marked.

Before you start, take a moment to "read" the problem. Visualise your movements. This will help you feel more in control when you climb. Once you reach the top, hold both hands onto the top hold, this is called “matching” and signals the end to your climb. You can then use any coloured holds to safely work your way down.

Transcript for 'How to read bouldering routes'

So the easiest is a VB. Then it goes V0, V1, V2, V3, V4, V5, V6, and so on. As the numbers get higher, the climbs get harder. The grades go up to V10 at Warwick Sport. To find out the V-grade of the climbs, it's written on the metal tags, which indicate the starting holds.

So if I was going to do this green one, I can see it's a V1. That's quite an easy one, but not the easiest. One hand starts here and the other hand starts here. So you have to start like this. You can't start differently. That’s cheating.

You start on the indicated holds, and underneath you there’s something to stand on. You can then get off the floor, and once you've established, you climb up using just one colour all the way to the top. At the top, you get both hands on the final hold. That’s called matching, and that’s how to properly finish the climb. Then you can climb down using all the colours.

So we've got this orange climb. It’s a V0. It's going to start here and here, and I want to climb it all the way to the top. It’s got small jugs and some small footholds. So I really want to put my toes on these, not the middle of my foot.

3. Types of bouldering holds

Bouldering routes use a variety of holds, each requiring a different grip and technique. Here are some of the holds you will find on some of the beginner routes:

Jugs – Large, easy-to-grip holds that feel like handles. Great for resting or beginner routes.
Pinches – Gripped by squeezing between your thumb and fingers, often requiring hand strength and control.
Slopers – Rounded, smooth holds with no edges. These rely on open-handed grip, body position, and friction, not finger strength.
Crimps – Small, thin edges that you grip with your fingertips. These demand strong fingers and careful technique.
Foot holds – Usually small and not meant for hands. Good footwork and balance are key to making the most of these.

Transcript for 'Types of bouldering holds'

So there are jugs. They're the nice, easy holds. Here, and here. Then you've got pinches. You squeeze them using your thumb and fingers. We've also got slopers. These ones are slopers. It's an open-handed grip, and you want to really wrap your wrist around them to hold on. There are trickier ones too, called crimps. They require a lot of finger strength to hold. Before you start climbing, you want to decide if you want a route with lots of pinches, crimps, or slopers. Have a look and see where they're going.

So we've got this yellow one. It starts on a pinch. There are more pinches along the way, and actually, it stays on pinches the whole time. Then underneath, there are some footholds. You don't tend to grab the footholds, they're just for standing on. So, if you wanted to...

4. Why bouldering is a great form of exercise

You don’t have to be super fit or strong to begin. Bouldering is about using your whole body in smart, efficient ways. As you climb, you’ll naturally build strength, flexibility, coordination, and mental focus. It’s also a great way to relieve stress, as climbing encourages you to be present in the moment.

Whether you're looking for a workout, a way to unwind, or just something fun and social to try with friends. Climbing offers something for everyone.

5. Essential gear you’ll need for bouldering

You don’t need much to start. Just:

Climbing shoes – These help you grip holds more securely.
Chalk – This dries your hands so you don’t slip.
Comfortable, stretchy clothing – Think gym wear you can move in.

At Warwick Sport, you can rent climbing shoes at the front desk, so you don’t need to invest in anything straight away. Just book a session , turn up and give it a go.

6. Improve your climbing technique

It’s a common myth that climbing is all about upper body strength, but technique is even more important. Start by focusing on:

Footwork – Place your feet with care and precision. Look before you step and try not to "scramble." Trust your feet!
Balance – Keep your hips close to the wall and move smoothly between holds. Good balance reduces the strain on your arms.
Body positioning – Use your legs to push yourself upwards rather than pulling with your arms. Strong legs do most of the work.
Smearing – This is when you press the sole of your climbing shoe directly against the wall to create friction. It’s useful when there are no obvious footholds.
Palming – This involves pressing your open palm against the wall or a hold to help you balance or push yourself upward. It’s especially useful on volumes or when there aren’t good handholds.

These techniques might feel awkward at first, but the more you practice, the more natural they’ll become. And remember everyone starts somewhere, so give yourself permission to learn at your own pace.

Transcript for 'Improve your climbing technique'

Yeah. So, you smear on these, they’re called macros. You smear on them by placing your foot on and keeping your heels down when smearing, because you really want to maximise rubber contact with the hold. Or you might smear directly on the wall and just use the friction on the surface. Like with this red one, you've got palming, where you push against the top of the hold with your palm.

7. Warm up and stretches for bouldering

Warming up is essential, even for short climbs. It helps reduce the risk of injury and gets your muscles ready to move.

Start with some dynamic stretches: rotate your wrists and shoulders, swing your legs, and do some light cardio like jumping jacks.

Focus especially on your arms, shoulders, fingers, and hips, areas you’ll use a lot while climbing.

8. Learn bouldering etiquette

Climbing is a shared space and knowing the basics of bouldering etiquette helps keep things safe and enjoyable:

Wait your turn - Don’t walk underneath someone who’s climbing.
Be aware of your surroundings - Leave space and don’t block the wall.
Share the tips - but only if it’s welcome and please ask first.

Everyone was a beginner once, and climbers are usually happy to help, but always ask first before offering advice.

Transcript for 'Learn bouldering etiquette'

Just make sure you don’t walk underneath anyone while they’re climbing. You also shouldn’t leave anything on the mats that other people could land on. If you need to jump off, make sure you bend your knees, roll backwards, and tuck your arms in. There are crash mats underneath to help protect you when you land.

9. Use chalk wisely

Chalk helps with grip by keeping your hands dry but a little goes a long way. Apply a light dusting to your hands and brush off holds when you’re done. This helps keep the wall clean and ensures other climbers can grip the same holds safely.

10. What to wear for bouldering

You don’t need fancy gear, just wear clothes that won’t get in your way. Good options include:

Leggings or joggers (avoid jeans or anything too stiff)
A fitted T-shirt or tank top
Climbing shoes (rental available on site)

You’ll want freedom of movement without anything catching on holds as you move.

photo of a person swinging from a bouldering wall

Bonus Tips: How to progress in bouldering as a beginner

Once you’ve had a few climbs and are starting to get the hang of it, there are plenty of ways to improve:

Join a beginner course - Our Learn to Climb sessions are the perfect place to start. You’ll learn the basics, meet others, and get expert tips.
Climb regularly - Like any skill, consistency makes a big difference. The more you climb, the more natural it will feel.
Try different V-grades - Once you're comfortable with VB or V0, challenge yourself with a V1 or V2. Progression isn’t about speed, it’s about exploring your limits.
Have a go at new sets - Our bouldering problems are reset regularly. Each new set brings fresh challenges and an opportunity to try something different.
Mix up your sessions - Try climbing at different times of day or with different people. It keeps things fresh and you’ll often pick up new ideas just by watching others.
Ask for tips - Our staff and regular climbers are always happy to offer advice. No question is too small, everyone was new once!
Book a coaching session - 1:1 or small group coaching can give you that extra boost, helping you refine technique and build confidence.
Set small goals - Whether it's reaching the top of a route you've been stuck on, or mastering a new technique like smearing, every win counts.