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Week 8: Gender and Sexuality

Essential Reading condesamonterrey.jpg
  • Laura Bass and Amanda Wunder, ‘The Veiled Ladies of the Early Modern Spanish World: Seduction and Scandal in Seville, Madrid, and Lima,’ The Hispanic Review77: 1 (2009), pp. 97-144
  • Evelyn Welch (ed.), Fashioning the Early Modern: Dress, Textiles, and Innovation in Europe, 1500-1800 (Oxford, 2017). Chapter 4: Amanda Wunder, ‘Innovation and Tradition at the Court of Philip IV of Spain,’ pp. 111-134
Seminar questions:

- How can we draw on fashions, e.g: the “tapadas” of Lima and Seville, to explore ideas about gender and sexuality? What can the circulation and adaptation of these fashions tell us about connections and interactions across the larger Atlantic world?

- How could clothing be used to reinforce or subvert traditional values in Early Modern Spain?

- Choose an item of dress or particular fashion (e.g. the golilla or guardainfante). Consider what it was intended to convey, and how. Think about how these items were made, who wore them, in what context?

- Ulinka Rublack has argued (in relation to the historical study and interpretation of fashion and clothing): “Yet our primary work as historians remains to find Renaissance sources which tell us about the meaning given to dress in that society and how materiality shaped it.” Discuss

Further Reading tapada
  • Amanda Wunder, ‘Women’s Fashions and Politics in Seventeenth-Century Spain: The Rise and Fall of the Guardainfante,’ Renaissance Quarterly 68:1 (2015), 133-186
  • Ulinka Rublack, “Renaissance Dress, Cultures of Making, and the Period Eye,’ West 86th: A Journal of Decorative Arts, Design History, and Material Culture,23: 1 (Spring-Summer 2016), pp. 6-34
  • John Elliott, Spain, Europe, and the Wider World, 1500-1800(Yale University Press, 2009), Chapter 14: Appearance and Reality in the Spain of Velázquez, pp. 279-303
  • Glyn Redworth and Fernando Checa, ‘The Courts of the Spanish Habsburgs, 1500-1700,’ in John Adamson (ed.), The Princely Courts of Europe: Ritual, Politics and Culture under the Ancien Régime, 1500-1750(London, 1999)
  • Magdalena S. Sanchez, ‘Court Women in the Age of Velázquez,’ in Suzanne L. Stratton-Pruitt (ed.), The Cambridge Companion to Velázquez, (Cambridge, 2002), pp. 87-108
  • Charlene Villaseñor Black, ‘The Moralized Breast in Early Modern Spain,’ in The Material Culture of Sex, Procreation and Marriage in Pre-modern Europe(New York, 2002).
  • Zahira Veliz, “Signs of Identity in ‘Lady with a Fan’ by Diego Velázquez: Costume and Likeness Reconsidered.” Art Bulletin86: 1 (2004), pp. 75–95
  • Cristian Berco, “Textiles as Social Texts: Syphilis, Material Culture and Gender in Golden Age Spain,” Journal of Social History44: 3 (2011), pp. 785–810
  • Maria Hayward, ‘Clothing,’ in The Routledge Handbook of Material Culture, (London, 2016), pp. 172-184